Issues starting fd rx7
04-17-23, 06:38 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Issues starting fd rx7
I’ve searched through the forums/fb groups and wanted some more input from more experienced folks. New to the rotary game.
I was driving my fd and probably started the car like 7x on and off a few weekends ago (Usually just take it for a cruise and bring it back home.) I’ve had issues once before starting it multiple times within a few hours and it wouldn’t start until a few mins had passed. Anyways I was doing a pull wot and had to slam on my brakes because of a semi truck pulling out in front of me and I popped it in neutral to downshift then the car died on me. Tried starting it back up about 4x before stopping to not flood the motor. I ended up bump starting the car and drove 30 mins home, died on me once and bump started it again.
Next weekend I replaced battery, tried starting once right away, no luck starting. 2nd time starting I clutched in/gas pressed all the way and car fired up. Drove around for about 30 mins and I had to blip the throttle to keep the car alive. I stopped giving it throttle to see if it would die and it did. Wouldn’t fire back up so I bump started it again (new battery) and drove it home. Next day I replaced spark plugs because it wasn’t idleing where it usually did and would die once it hit under 1000. I also changed oil because it was time anyways and I was already under the car.
1st attempt to start car with new plugs and oil, I tried starting it normally and no luck. 2nd attempt starting right away, clutch in/gas pressed all the way in the car fired up. I let idle for 15 mins, held steady at 1500 where it usually idled at. Held rpms at 3k then revved out a bit before turning car off to check oil level after it warmed up. Oil level was full, tried to start car back up to take it for a drive to see how it felt, car wouldn’t start back up cranking it normal about 3x and with gas pressed all the way down 3x. When car was idleing it felt good, didn’t sound like it was misfiring.
That happened yesterday, I’m ordering a rotary compression tester before I go fuel pump/filter and start chasing everything else it could be. Any insight would be appreciated on anything I should check.
Car is stock just has a exhaust and is on a jdm ecu, previous owner was having issues idleing with the original usdm ecu.
I was driving my fd and probably started the car like 7x on and off a few weekends ago (Usually just take it for a cruise and bring it back home.) I’ve had issues once before starting it multiple times within a few hours and it wouldn’t start until a few mins had passed. Anyways I was doing a pull wot and had to slam on my brakes because of a semi truck pulling out in front of me and I popped it in neutral to downshift then the car died on me. Tried starting it back up about 4x before stopping to not flood the motor. I ended up bump starting the car and drove 30 mins home, died on me once and bump started it again.
Next weekend I replaced battery, tried starting once right away, no luck starting. 2nd time starting I clutched in/gas pressed all the way and car fired up. Drove around for about 30 mins and I had to blip the throttle to keep the car alive. I stopped giving it throttle to see if it would die and it did. Wouldn’t fire back up so I bump started it again (new battery) and drove it home. Next day I replaced spark plugs because it wasn’t idleing where it usually did and would die once it hit under 1000. I also changed oil because it was time anyways and I was already under the car.
1st attempt to start car with new plugs and oil, I tried starting it normally and no luck. 2nd attempt starting right away, clutch in/gas pressed all the way in the car fired up. I let idle for 15 mins, held steady at 1500 where it usually idled at. Held rpms at 3k then revved out a bit before turning car off to check oil level after it warmed up. Oil level was full, tried to start car back up to take it for a drive to see how it felt, car wouldn’t start back up cranking it normal about 3x and with gas pressed all the way down 3x. When car was idleing it felt good, didn’t sound like it was misfiring.
That happened yesterday, I’m ordering a rotary compression tester before I go fuel pump/filter and start chasing everything else it could be. Any insight would be appreciated on anything I should check.
Car is stock just has a exhaust and is on a jdm ecu, previous owner was having issues idleing with the original usdm ecu.
04-18-23, 09:04 AM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
First off, welcome to the Forum!
Yeah, first thing let's do a compression test - there's no reason for chasing your tail with a bunch of things if the engine is bad.
It really sounds like the root of the problem is the car won't hold an idle and won't easily start back up once it's shut off or stalls.
If it's near stock, I would get a good US ECU in there. The Japanese ECUs have different inputs and outputs on some key things that can affect idle. You do also want to get the RIGHT ECU, there are a few variations - California emissions or not, automatic or not, etc. They shouldn't be hard to find used. There's a guide on what the ECU numbers mean so you can make sure to get one that is the right one for your car. If you do have one that came with the car, you can check to make sure it is the right one.
For spark plugs, did you use the stock NGK BUR7EQP and 9EQP?
Also worth checkin that the vacuum line to the MAP sensor on the firewall is properly connected - if it falls off, the car will run horribly and do weird stuff.
Dale
Yeah, first thing let's do a compression test - there's no reason for chasing your tail with a bunch of things if the engine is bad.
It really sounds like the root of the problem is the car won't hold an idle and won't easily start back up once it's shut off or stalls.
If it's near stock, I would get a good US ECU in there. The Japanese ECUs have different inputs and outputs on some key things that can affect idle. You do also want to get the RIGHT ECU, there are a few variations - California emissions or not, automatic or not, etc. They shouldn't be hard to find used. There's a guide on what the ECU numbers mean so you can make sure to get one that is the right one for your car. If you do have one that came with the car, you can check to make sure it is the right one.
For spark plugs, did you use the stock NGK BUR7EQP and 9EQP?
Also worth checkin that the vacuum line to the MAP sensor on the firewall is properly connected - if it falls off, the car will run horribly and do weird stuff.
Dale
The following users liked this post:
fdRay (04-18-23)
04-18-23, 07:48 PM
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
First off, welcome to the Forum!
Yeah, first thing let's do a compression test - there's no reason for chasing your tail with a bunch of things if the engine is bad.
It really sounds like the root of the problem is the car won't hold an idle and won't easily start back up once it's shut off or stalls.
If it's near stock, I would get a good US ECU in there. The Japanese ECUs have different inputs and outputs on some key things that can affect idle. You do also want to get the RIGHT ECU, there are a few variations - California emissions or not, automatic or not, etc. They shouldn't be hard to find used. There's a guide on what the ECU numbers mean so you can make sure to get one that is the right one for your car. If you do have one that came with the car, you can check to make sure it is the right one.
For spark plugs, did you use the stock NGK BUR7EQP and 9EQP?
Also worth checkin that the vacuum line to the MAP sensor on the firewall is properly connected - if it falls off, the car will run horribly and do weird stuff.
Dale
Yeah, first thing let's do a compression test - there's no reason for chasing your tail with a bunch of things if the engine is bad.
It really sounds like the root of the problem is the car won't hold an idle and won't easily start back up once it's shut off or stalls.
If it's near stock, I would get a good US ECU in there. The Japanese ECUs have different inputs and outputs on some key things that can affect idle. You do also want to get the RIGHT ECU, there are a few variations - California emissions or not, automatic or not, etc. They shouldn't be hard to find used. There's a guide on what the ECU numbers mean so you can make sure to get one that is the right one for your car. If you do have one that came with the car, you can check to make sure it is the right one.
For spark plugs, did you use the stock NGK BUR7EQP and 9EQP?
Also worth checkin that the vacuum line to the MAP sensor on the firewall is properly connected - if it falls off, the car will run horribly and do weird stuff.
Dale
I did use 7EQP/9EQP plugs. I’ll go ahead and give the vacuum line to MAP sensor a look over. I also have the original ECU so I’ll see how that goes as well. Just waiting on compression tester and I’ll see my fate lol.
Appreciate the info!
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