Kyle Engelsmeier

Hey guys.

I've been through a few cars. I always like changing them up, as I get bored easily.

From a convertible mustang at 15, to a JDM turbo MR2 now, and next I was considering an FD, for next spring (2009)

I would like your help in considering if an FD3S is the right car for me.

Before we start, I have searched long and hard, every link you guys post about reliability, mods, ect. However I have a short attention span so not much of it sinks in

to start, my FD3S would be one imported from Japan. approximately 80- 100,000 km's. Of course, this means an automatic engine rebuild or what have you. I have seen the term "reman" on some RX7 forums. does this simply mean re-manufactured? the same as rebuilt?

this brings me to question 1) what is the cost of a rebuild WITH reliability mods (lines, hoses, radiator, ect) to be done at a shop? this shop will be a Drift shop that specializes in rotary. I will also plan on having some money in the bank for any blown engine that may occur.

My next concern is the room inside the cockpit. through searching, it seems that someone of my stature of 6'4" with long legs, is screwed. however upon recently sitting in an FD3S, i realize I may pull it off if I get a hardtop, small aftermarket steering wheel, and a racing seat bolted to the ground, farther back than the stock seats can go (i will opt for the 2-seater version, not the 4-seater, so I may move back farther if needed).

so my question 2) does my fitting plan seem plausible?

The next question is that of reliability. My power goal for an FD3S would be modest, as they are quick from the factory. 300 wheel horsepower would be more than enough.

question 3) with reliability mods, can i run 300hp reliably? of course mods are only ecu upgrade for boost (i read upping the boost without a new ecu is bad for this engine), exhaust system, IC, intake, and necessary fuel mods.

my other mods to the FD3S would be suspension with 1.5 way LSD (which i don't believe to be a concern), and aesthetics (bodykit, wing, you know, the ricer stuff).

Basically my main goal is to have a fun weekend only cruiser (bike to work). I want a nice, clean, FD3S, with some power, and hopefully reliable with a "reman" or rebuilt engine.

My last comment is to recognize the car that gave me the biggest inspiration on deciding that an FD should be my next car. this goes to Oun and his sexy black RX7!

So Sorry for taking up so much of your time, and if you could, please answer all my bolded questions.

thanks!

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I'm 6'2" and 185 lbs. I fit, but it is tight. I have a touring model so I have the sunroof which doesn't help. If I was an inch taller, I don't think I'd be able to be comfortable at all. As it is, I'm quite comfortable in the car unless I'm wearing a helmet. Then it is NOT comfortable at all.

Not many racing seats would be confortable or lower your sitting height either. I suggest that you try and find an FD that you can ride and drive to see if you will be comfortable or not.

Kyle Engelsmeier

Well in the FD I sat in, I knew I wouldn't be able to drive it comfortably. height wasn't really as issue. only if I was back a few more inches to get my knees out of the steering wheel, I'd be fine

more input is appreciated!

ahad

get a momo

rotorooter93fd

iTrader: (6)

im not even gonna say it! rofl

YOUWSH

I had a bloke test drive my last FD and the only reason he didn't buy it was because of this same reason. It made him look like he was driving a dodgem car with his knees bashing against the steering wheel.

IaMtHeRuThLeSs1

Well then you're in luck, they're all hardtops (save for a couple one off's)

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

I think he was referring to a non sunroof model when he typed "hardtop".

To answer some of your questions:

-Yes, 300whp can be reached reliably on the stock twin turbos and fuel system. You will need some mods such as intake, downpipe/catback, intercooler, boost controller, ECU.

-You might be pretty cramped in the FD interior, I am only 6' and my head hits the headliner with a helmet on. To help you can either remove foam from the stock seat or install a racing seat without rails (bolt it to the floor). A smaller steering wheel can help as well.

-Remans are just rebuilt engines from Mazda. Actually, Mazda contracts out the rebuilds to a third party. Remans are generally a mix of used and new parts, it is kind of a crapshoot.

-Having a shop R&R the engine, rebuild it, and perform some reliability mods is probably going to be pretty expensive. It varies a lot from shop to shop, but I would plan on spending at least $5000-$7000 USD. Again, cost varies so call the shop and ask for an estimate.

trekmtbr89

iTrader: (1)

I am 6'4" and very comfortable in my FD

zenofspeed

iTrader: (1)

I'd try and find a car with good compression so you don't have to rebuild. You should always anticipate a rebuild though, and it will cost around $5-7k.

I think you have good ideas about getting yourself to fit comfortably.

Those power goals are NP. I drive my car (305whp) daily on stock fuel. (3" pipes, no emissions control, PFC, IC, ported motor, ported waste gate on turbos, boost controller, gauges, intake, etc.)

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I have a US version so I'm not sure if there is any difference in the seat rails. I don't have a problem being far enough away from the pedals, but because the steering wheel is fixed, I don't have enough room to heel-toe shift. I guess what I'm saying is that the problem (at least for me) isn't how far back the seat slides but how low the wheel is off the floor. Mazda really didn't have tall folks of Scandinavian decent in mind when they designed these cars.

When I wear a helmet, I have to pop the sunroof up to fit. That also means leaning just slightly towards the center of the car.

One seat that I've looked at is the Memoryfab S68 seats with their super low rails. I've heard that should give me another 1 1/2 inch of clearance. Not ready to spend the money even though these aren't terribly expensive.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

The late model RX-7s had smaller steering wheels, which can help your knees. Also, some of the tall guys have adopted a quick release hub as the resolution for this problem. With the quick release hub, you can get into the car easily without having to work your knees under the wheel, and it works as a spacer to bring the sheel up higher, so it doesn't sit right at your knees.

Kyle Engelsmeier

thanks for the input guys.

5-7k for a rebuild seems a bit too much for me at this stage. and i know i would never buy an FD unless i had the money for a rebuild. and with that much on a rebuild i couldnt have a "just in case" fund

maybe this is the MR2's way of telling me to keep to MR2's haha

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

If you take the engine out yourself a good rebuild may actually be around 3K$ You shouldnt really worry about blowing your motor after that as long as its built right.
Im on my orig mazda engine pushing 330whp. No probs so far, Good compression.

Also, like me, your going to drive it maybe what? 5-6K miles a year. At the VERY LEAST, a good rebuilt motor running 300-350whp will last 40Kmiles if tuned right. Maybe even double. So that means youll be set AT LEAST~8 years. Not bad if you ask me.

parid

You might be able to do to do the rebuilt for 3k if you do everything your self, but I bet you will find a bunch of little things that you will want to do at the same time. 5th gear synchro, water hoses, radiator, motor mounts, water pump, clean/flow test injectors, fuel lines, clutch, ect ect. It really depends on the car. You could see another 1-2k just in opportunity fixes for little things. Once you get past that hurdle it's really not so bad to maintain the car.

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

if he buys a low mileage one 5th gear,wp,fuel lines prob wont be necessary. I would get a clutch in tho since motor is already out. My 5th gear is fine @ 42K miles.

Kyle Engelsmeier

by the way, i dont do any engine work my self

i'm not that good haha