Intercooler Air Leak Solution
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Intercooler Air Leak Solution
The interface between my Efini Y-pipe and 2ndary turbo outlet leaks air when I pressurize the system. I've replaced the gasket but it still leaks air over 7psi. Not sure exactly why as both surfaces seem smooth and level.
I was told to try a product by PermaTech. Does any one have any experience with this product and which one would work best with high temperature seals.
Thx!
I was told to try a product by PermaTech. Does any one have any experience with this product and which one would work best with high temperature seals.
Thx!
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Originally Posted by memmi
The interface between my Efini Y-pipe and 2ndary turbo outlet leaks air when I pressurize the system. I've replaced the gasket but it still leaks air over 7psi. Not sure exactly why as both surfaces seem smooth and level.
I was told to try a product by PermaTech. Does any one have any experience with this product and which one would work best with high temperature seals.
Thx!
I was told to try a product by PermaTech. Does any one have any experience with this product and which one would work best with high temperature seals.
Thx!
There should be an o-ring at the junction of the y-pipe and the secondary turbo outlet. Is this present and in good shape? Could it be that someone replaced it with an o-ring that was thinner and is not sealing well?
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definitely check the o-ring, from what you are implying it sounds like you don't have one. If you, and it is to stocks specs, you might try gasket sealer although I don't know how well it would hold up to the heat, plus it'd be a bitch to clean off/ remove once it was cooked on there.
#4
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Gasket sealer really won't help a junction that was made to be sealed with an o-ring, unless you smear so much of the stuff in there that, as you state, it will lock the junction solid and be a major PITA to separate later after it's cooked on. Some of the distillates in the gasket sealer may have detrimental effects to the rubber in the o-ring as well.
I would simply get a new o-ring, as even one that "looks fine" at a casual glance may be defective once it's installed.
I would simply get a new o-ring, as even one that "looks fine" at a casual glance may be defective once it's installed.
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no, there is no leak at the O-ring, no air passes through that when 10psi is applied. I'ts present and in good shape.
The leak is at the interface before the O-ring, where the Secondary turbo meets the upper "Y" in the Y-pipe. Will sealent help in that location?
The leak is at the interface before the O-ring, where the Secondary turbo meets the upper "Y" in the Y-pipe. Will sealent help in that location?
#6
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Sorry, was under the impression when you say "interface between sec turbo outlet and Efini Y-pipe" that you were referring to the o-ring junction...
Yes, Permatech sealant will help with that gasket. Note, however, that should you have to remove that section later on, you will have to carefully remove the old sealant on the gasket sealing surfaces.
Yes, Permatech sealant will help with that gasket. Note, however, that should you have to remove that section later on, you will have to carefully remove the old sealant on the gasket sealing surfaces.
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Oh, also, I"ve got this crappy paper gasket on my Greddy BOV which leaks a little. Will the Permatech help that as well or does it not work on the paper gaskets.
Thanks lots BTW!
Thanks lots BTW!
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#8
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The flange from the secondary turbo to the Y-pipe shouldn't leak if the metal gasket is there. I'd double-check it - there might be something stuck on the flange that's keeping it from sealing tight, or one of the studs is messed up and you think you've got it tight when it's actually just hung up on the stud.
Also, you should always put the Y-pipe on both flanges, hand-tighten the nuts on both flanges, THEN tighten. If you tighten one up first, you could **** the other section of the Y-pipe and not have it flat against the flange.
Don't use RTV on the gasket - that's just a hack for the real problem. Figure out what the actual problem is and get it whupped. It should be something simple.
BTW, do you have metal or paper gaskets for that flange? The original gaskets were paper (and crappy ) and the later gaskets were metal and reusable many times.
Dale
Also, you should always put the Y-pipe on both flanges, hand-tighten the nuts on both flanges, THEN tighten. If you tighten one up first, you could **** the other section of the Y-pipe and not have it flat against the flange.
Don't use RTV on the gasket - that's just a hack for the real problem. Figure out what the actual problem is and get it whupped. It should be something simple.
BTW, do you have metal or paper gaskets for that flange? The original gaskets were paper (and crappy ) and the later gaskets were metal and reusable many times.
Dale
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Yes, it's a metal gasket and brand new. There is some scoring on metal on the turbo outlet surface but it's too fine for me to even feel with my fingers (but perhaps not fine enough to keep air out).
I also tightned the bolts in a back and forth pattern to avoid cranking one side too far. I think the studs are fine so I cant figure out what it might be. Hence the RTV solution... It's not a lot of air leaking but i can feel it if I pressurize the system to 10psi.
thanks.
I also tightned the bolts in a back and forth pattern to avoid cranking one side too far. I think the studs are fine so I cant figure out what it might be. Hence the RTV solution... It's not a lot of air leaking but i can feel it if I pressurize the system to 10psi.
thanks.
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