sheepdin

Hey guys,
plz help me out. I am out of town looking for a FD. I don't have much time to do research now~

I am dealoing with a guy who selling his 93 R1~
here's some belief history of the car
@ 12xxxx km engine got rebuilt
@ 9xxxx km turbo got rebuilt
now the car has 16xxxx km

here's the direct quotation of the inspection and compression check result

R/outer brake light out. brake light illumiates on hard accereration. Idle high and hunting. code 11 present. air duct from intercooler to turbo lifts off @ turbo & sucks air when turbo engaged. oil leak @ RHD side of engine.(below turbo) possbile oil leak @ front rotor housing. 2 rocks chips in windshield

The idle rpm is heatiating around 900 ~ 1200 rpm with no engine light on, I can feel some "choking" ??? while the rpm is jumping up and down.

compression results~

#1 rotor 7.7 7.5 7.5 c/o 270 rpm
#2 rotor 7.4 7.5 7.4 c/o 266 rpm

Plz give me some advice on this car?? Is the problem big deal??? How much to fix???


Thx~

whitekingsnake

1st a rebuilt engine with that mileage should have higer compression. It's not too inconsistent but i would suspect inferior parts on the rebuild or tiny chips to the seals.

The oil leak if related to the turbo is bad news, and if related to the engine is also bad news. It could be a leak at one of the oil inlet pipes.

You really need to take your time and find out EXACTLY where the oil is coming from. Dont rush this as you will regret it later.

If you still want to buy it, figure $900 to rebuild the turbo and some extra to remove and reinstall. The engine losing compression at that rate may or may not last another 10-30k.

The other stuff sounds minor and the code 11 is an intake air temp sensor..Not too much to worry about there.


What is he asking for the car? Iit were me I think I would walk away unless you can get it pretty cheap, and then it will be a fix her up.


Hope I've helped

Later, Scott

Wargasm

The engine numbers sound ok to me. Cars never get that ridiculous book spec of like 9.0 that I've ever seen.

Brake light on under acceleration - I'd check the level it may be very low, no biggie; possibly a loose wire. All the other stuff sounds minor. If the engine drives OK and you are getting a nice price, I think it might be a good deal.

sheepdin

there's only seepage of the oil~~
i didn't see the oil droplet on the floor after doing the inspection~~

so is the compression test results good enough???

the price is 23500 CAD
it's a R1
thx

Trexthe3rd

Not saying it's common or not, but the compression on the reman I just installed is all 9.1 to 9.3. The compression numbers you have is acceptable, but barely.
If the car was taken care of properly (proper warmup, cool down, basic reliability mods) the turbos should not have been replaced at 9x,xxx km. Mine are on 117,000 mi and still kicking ***. The turbos should out last the engine anyday.
23500 cad~15670 usd if I'm not mistaken. Honestly, I would not pay more than 10000 usd for that car, and thats with a near perfectly preserved exterior and interior. Expect to pay around 2-3k usd just to get the car in normal running condition.

sheepdin

does every fd has slight oil seepage problem???
i mean just some oil stick on the engine or turbo area, which is not dipping on the ground~

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

Compression numbers are fine.

Brake light comes on while accelerating. Check two things. First hold the e-brake handle down when you accelerate. That will probably keep it from going off. This is a common "issue" and really isn't a problem other than the light bugging you. If that isn't it, check the fluid reservior. If it is low then you'll get the light on when the fluid sloshes around. Look for leaks and/or pads that are worn.

Idle jumping around is probably a mis-adjusted TPS (throttle position sensor). It isn't hard to adjust, the dealer should be able to do it in <1hr.

The "air duct from intercooler to turbo" problem. Actually you wrote that backwards. The "pipe" runs from the turbo(s) to the intercooler. The coupling that connects the two is likely split. This is another simple fix, buy new coupling (~$40 from dealer, or buy a chunk of 2.75" silicon hose OR rad hose from local parts store). Installs in minutes.

Code 11, intake air thermosensor. Remove upper intake manifold, replace sensor. This might be the cause of the poor idle. Replace this before you do anything else.

If you are planning on having someone fix all this little stuff it could cost you a lot. If you do it yourself it is pretty easy.

Your oil leak is likely the oil return line from the turbos. The rear line is a piece of cake to seal up, the front line is harder but not impossible. This isn't serious but get it fixed because oil leaks KILL MOTOR MOUNTS. Mounts run ~$250-300 from the dealer.

Jeff

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

lol, I think every FD springs a leak here and there at sometime. However, that not really an accepted thing.

Gaskets and other parts wear out over time. It happens.

Trexthe3rd

In perfect working condition, no. from what you are decribing it sounds like there are oil blow by from the turbos. It does happen when the turbos get old, if it is not dripping then there isn't too much to worry about.

rx7raca

maybe when the guy got the turbos put back on he used the old gaskets...
geoff

sheepdin

thx a lot guys~~

u help me a lot

thx

ROTORHP

What did you decide Sheepdin? You going to buy or run away from that thing?

sheepdin

haha
i got it at the end~