rexhvn

Hey guys, basically, I had some issues with my airpumo prior to this which caused squeeling and smoke coming from the pulleys but thats all replaced now. I installed my pfc which is tuned for my FD. Now what happens is when I start the car, it idles to around 2200rpm for about a second or so then just dies. If I want to keep it running I have to continously and quickly tap the accel.
Now, I check my sensor readings on my pfc.

Previous readings:
VTA1 = 1.5v closed throttle
VTA2 = 3.2v "

Knowing that these are very wrong, I adjusted them using the screws (one on the TB and the other at the bottom right corner neart the firewall right near the oil filter)

Current readings:
VTA1 = .55v
VTA2 = 1.24v

My FD refusing to stay alive... Need help please

Thank you! Appreciate it!

I went through an TPS adjustment thread just made no sense to me what so ever...

Dofl542001

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Check the TPS for cracks and stuff. When I installed my Power FC I had the same problems but my TPS was cracked and not adjusting right.

Azcamel

iTrader: (1)

my TSP is right but will still do that sometimes. is your engine ported? what is your idle set at on the PFC? there are 6 things you have to set.

rexhvn

No my engine is stock ports. My idle is set to 850, 900, 950 - I bumped it up a little hoping it would help but nope. I was told my throttle sensor needs to be repositioned correctly? Full adjustment got me best figures of VTA1 - .55 and VTA2 = 1.24 give or take... I took my TB off and noticed my butiflies don't all open at the exact same time. I bottom butifly opens a little earier, but the top two open at the same time... any ideas? I really need to fix it asap have to make it to a FD cruise next weekend hehe THANKS GUYS!

Dennis,

Azcamel

iTrader: (1)

here is how my idle screen on the PFC look like
8500 (rev limit)
1150
1100
1100
==
1050
1000
1000

since you dont have a big port like me, try it at
1100
1000
1000
==
1000
900
900

also does having your lights on have any effect?
also is your battery charged, try putting it on a charger overnight.

rexhvn

Thank you! I'll have to try it out and see if it helps. My lights work fine, but the car does stay on long enough for me to even notice if it affects anything sorry. And I have a brand new battery only couple days old. I'm pretty sure me figures are similar to that but will have to check... any other ideas or possibilities? Thanks!!

Azcamel

iTrader: (1)

nope, my PFC has always had a weird idel, sometimes when is start the car it will dip and then idle correctly, sometimes i have to turn the parking lights on for ito idle correct, but it has not shut off on me since i change my idle setting to what i posted above. also did you check to make sure you have no open vac line in the mainfold?

rexhvn

Definiately no vac leaks... everything was fine when I had my stock ECU in.. my FD doesn't even idle lol... it just revs then dies...

rexhvn

Could not cutting the appropiate wires on the harness cause this problem?

Dennis,

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

thats not how you adjust your TPS. Those two screws allow more or less air into the engine. The one in the bottom right corner is an air bleed screw that is for fine tuning idle. It will not change the TPS settings. the other one on the top left of the throttle body is for opening the primary butterfly to adjust the idle on a larger scale. This particular screw will change the tps readings but is not its intended purpose.

The TPS is adjusted by loosening the 2 screws on the tps and rotating the tps until you get the proper voltages. Its hard to get to and may require a stubby screw driver or a 90 degree screwdriver. The TPS and its screws are found between the throttle body and the firewall.

My guess is you adjusted the screw on the top left (if facing the TB from the driver fender) until the tps was correct but that this closed your butterfly entirely so it cannot idle.

rexhvn

The screw on the top of the TB was almost completely out... I took the TB off and noticed that the bottom butifly would open sleighty before the others... is there a photo I could possibly get to know where exactly the correct TPS is? Thanks

Edit: Is that the screw thats tucked right behind the TB because i've got it off at the moment...
Dennis,

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

i'll find or go take a pic in a moment and draw some arrows to the different adjustments

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

That is normal. Its supposed to do that.

Did it idle before installing the PFC?

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/tps_adj.htm <--- how to adjust TPS

Dofl542001

Here are the numbers the PFC should be reading from Ray up at PF Super Cars.

VTA 1 - .5
VTA 2 - 1.15 - 1.20

When I got the base map from Ray he told me that I needed a new TPS and told me when I replace it to adjust it to the numbers above. Hope this helps.

-Brandon

rexhvn

Thank you. I adjusted my TPS to the figures above, but still nothing... starts, then shuts off. I adjusted my air bleed screw and it managed to keep the car on very roughly for a few more seconds.

I got my figures to around VTA1 - .3 and VTA 2 - .89 and adjusted air valve and still nothing... car starts up, but shuts down still... any other ideas?

Dennis,

rexhvn

I decided to put my stock ECU back in to see if it will run properly, but infact it's not. It wouldn't even start, just turned over and flooded my FD...

Dofl542001

OK sorry that did not help out. Wish you the best of luck.

rexhvn

Thank you very much

New update:
I unflooded it, put the stock ECU back in and started it. It started up, has an idle of it's own, doesn't run the best but it stays on and runs. Now, why won't be pfc stay running? Pleaseeee help guys

Dennis,

Dofl542001

I would take the PFC back to whoever put the map on it for your car. Maybe something is wrong with your base map. Also did you cut the three wires on the harness that you are suppose to?

rexhvn

No i'm yet to cut the wires... I read that cutting the wires only improves the pfc... but should still run without cutting the wires, that's why i'm yet to cut them...

Dofl542001

Well when I installed mine it ran a little funny but then Ray @ PF Super cars cut them and I have had little to no problems with my car. I would have whoever put the base map on it fix it then cut the wires. Good luck!

rexhvn

I cut the wires that i'm meant to cut, but this has had not impact on either stock ECU from running, or PFC from staying alive. I just took it for a drive with the stock ECU, it idled high, but smooth with the lights on, and lowish but lumpy without lights... everything drove fine, but as soon as I hit boost, the car just cuts out and doesn't go anywhere... the engine DOES NOT shut off however.


I had the exact same issue when my airpump was blocked... but after I unblocked it, it was fine.

When my tuner tuned my pfc, he did find that the base map was wierd at some points from 1200rpm-3500rpm... Any ideas to why my FD won't stay on with my pfc?

What could possibly be making my stock ECU run, yet PFC not run? I had a thought that maybe the airpump that I used to replaced my previous is bad? Will a bad airpump not stay on with a pfc?


Dennis,

Dudemaaanownsanrx7

iTrader: (23)

Is your isc (idle speed control) working properly? Also knowns as a bac valve to some. its the black valve on the UIM close to the firewall with a white connector. The ECU uses this to allow more air into the engine for idle speed, especially under higher engine loads. Are you running stock injectors? what other mods do you have?

rexhvn

I'm not sure if it is... but yes i'm running stock injectors... only mods are exhaust, catback and 3" with stock pre-cat and intake with the pfc... thats it!