I hooked my washer motor up to a mister and set it up to spray my (stock) intercooler when I am under boost. So far I'm getting good results (150 F max, faster cooldown after boost) but the temps rise after the boost. So I'm wondering if there is a way to have the system lag a bit. How can I get the circuit to stay on for a few seconds after the switch goes open ? Would a capacitor work ?

 

you can use a time delay relay, or a 555 in monostable configuration. a capacitor will not work. googling on 555 timer will give you lots of tutorials as this is a very common beginners chip.

 

Thanks, I'll look into it. I also realized I can put a check valve in front of the pressure switch and a needle valve after that. Then I can control the bleed down of pressure seen by the pressure switch.

 

"I also realized I can put a check valve in front of the pressure switch and a needle valve after that. Then I can control the bleed down of pressure seen by the pressure switch."

clever

 

Ok, I did the pressure thing. I had to add a liquid soap bottle as a pressure chamber (probably get an rx7 one later). The needle valve work wasn't the right range (not restrictive enough), so I put a .5 gph fogger nozzle on the end. Intake is now briefly 125 on full boost, and drops within a few seconds. Next I'll be improving the mister. BTW, how many of you didn't know there is a big HOLE in your IC duct that points at the battery ? Just sealed mine with foil tape and I'm sure that's helping, too.

 

Heat Kills the battery and that hole is menat to blow out any stagnant hot air that's in the battery tray...
So expect to go through more batteries than before...

-DC

 

Hey, I live in AZ. I got a WalMart battery with lifetime replacement.

 

You say that like you're bragging! Just relocate the battery and miniaturize and you won't need the Sam Walton special.

 

Great, another project ! After my keyless entry, wheel and brake paint, tint, dye carpet, bushing replacement ... damn internet. ;-)

 

I was just saying... there's a reason for most things on the 7.... most are not immediately apparent...

Except for that intercooler paperwight, I think you can yank that, no problem....

-DC

 

That bushing replacement looks a bit out of place with those other simple projects. Be prepared to be without your rex for a bit, and do a thorough search on the forum for advice. Even with the proper resources and tools, the bushing replacement sucks nuts.

 

Hey, Mazda needed to save weight *somewhere,* right? It sure as hell wasn't in the exhaust system

 

Damn, in the write-up it looked easy. Maybe I'll farm it out. Definitely needs to be done, though. Do you know if the early 92 bushing problem is included in the 6 pillow ***** ?

 

Update, changed out the POS metal mister for two DIG foggers. Much better mist. Checked the flow, it will take a LONG time to empty the tank. Now I'm going to set the pressure switch to come on earlier, try to get ahead of the curve. The secondary turbo adds some serious heat ! Also did the fan mod. Got rid of the heat soak. Otherwise 140 F intake temps on starting the car !

 

I have an early 92 build date R1 with original bushings and no clunks. I'll be changing mine out soon. What problem are you referring to?

The LaBreck/Unobtanium bushings do not come with pillow *****, if that's what you're asking.

 

I'm looking at doing the max cooper pillow ball bushing replacement (http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...lls/index.html ). I know there is a tsb for bushings for pre 5/92 (mine is 4/92). I'm wondering if the tsb is included in the 6 pillow ball bushings.

 

ANy updates on intake temps before and after the mister is running?