not to be a smarta$$, but did you even check the link that racer1 gave you? It has a lots of info

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/stages.html

that link will specifically take you to the upgrade/mod section.

I'm sure some of the guys on this forum can add to that list of reliability mods. I think a turbo timer should be added to that list unless you like spending time in parking lots scratching your nuts

So from what I gather so far, in order to achieve a "safe" 300rwhp. a new intake, downpipe, exhaust, intercooler, & ecu/fuel management system will do the trick + the reliability mods if you wanna make it last.

 

I guess from what Carlisi says you should add a fuel pump & some injectors to the list too.

 

My dad made 290 rwhp with only intake, dp, cb, profec B at 12 psi, and a Petah Ferrell Purple Box. Newer reman and turbos. He wastes new C5s and M3s with ease

 

Stock injectors and stock IC at 15psi is a recipe for disaster.

 

What's a "Reman"

 

Similar to a repo-man. Except he will come and take you away to save the car.

 

reman = a remanufactured engine, bro. a term all rotary owners become familiar with sooner or later.

 

 

my sig, i shoot flames even at 7psi (~270)... massive flames at 12psi (~340hp)...

 

Your mods are not showing up. Let us know what they are.

I had a friend dyno tuned at KDR with M2 intake, dp, M2 Med, RB cat back, PFC. I think he got 280 hp at 11 or 12 psi. I looked at the maps and they're very conservative on the ignition (retarded) and fuel (rich) on the top end. The ignition at the low end is very similar to the base map that comes with the PFC from Japan.

So 300+ rwhp is possible at 13-14 psi . But I wonder how close one would be on the injector flow limit at this boost level?

I know that at 14 psi in my last motor, I saw 90% duty cycle. (Motor was failing anyway due to o-ring so I didn't care and in fact upped the boost to 15psi just to see.)

Some said that 85% or more on duty cycle continuously is not good but others say it's OK. I don't know who to believe.

 

agreed!! when upgrading these cars, you can't just put one thing in without adjusting everything else to compensate for it. If you want 300rwhp sucessfully, you need to upgrade the fuel system, get the reliability mods, ecu, and all the bolt ons.

 

hmzz
and what if i just want to have a Free flow intake and exhaust ( for shooting flames )
How mucht RWHP do I get and do I still need an ECU?

 

That alone you won't need an ECU, but don't expect great flames out of either.

 

 

if he wants a free flow exhaust...he will need a DP, MP, and CB...plus intake = 4 mods....definatley need an ECU after 3 mods. You might get away with 4 mods and no ECU...who knows for how long...and I wouldnt do it.

 

Nope, not really There's a thread in here about the "3 mod myth".

 

If you put a DP, MP,CB and intakes then most probably you'll see spikes. Put a boost gauge as well. If you see spikes or creep then you need a boost controller. Maybe some porting on the wastegates or an aftermarket pill but i don't see how the ECU would help on this situation(cut the spikes).

 

BS I can have a K&N Filter, a RB Intake, a AST, and a Koyo Rad, that's 4 Mods... do I need to do anything to the ECU ??? NO !!!!

With a free flowing exhaust you need to possibly port the wastegate or buy a pop off valve... not a Blow off valve... but a "POP off Valve" some BOV's come with one integrated... I think Greddy Makes one...

Anyhow if your exhaust doens't backfire now, you won't see flames later... the ECU is helpfull for flames... in respect to adding/leaving fuel when you get off the gas... thi extra fuel makes it through the turbo, hopefully, and gets into the tailpipe..

 

i put down 351 on stock ignition, 4x850cc's and a supra fuel pump...AFR's in the 11's

 

No one ever said an aftermarket rad or ast will lead to blowing your motor.....they meant power mods. Weak argument .

Oh, and anyone that installs an intake, downpipe, midpipe, and catback on their previously stock FD without doing anything else is not the sharpest tool in the shed. Sure, you might be ok for awhile. Enjoy driving your ticking time bomb on the roads.

Boost Creep. Boost Spike. Lean out. Detonation. Broken Apex Seals.

Why screw around when a boosted rotary isn't exactly known for reliability and longevity

 

mijn vriend what je moet doen is je uitlaat kompleet open maken ,liever met drie duims pijp ,dat is een
voor de computer is het een beetje moeilijk want je zit in nederland en je hebt zeker niemand om het voor je te "tunen" dus beter bel je pettit racing zij hebben een upgrade voor je computer ,eenmaal klaar met dat moet je een boost kontroler hebben om de boost te zetten bij 13psi niet meer.
zorg ook dat je een filter hebt (luchtfilter) dit is redelijk gemakelijk om te doen hoor
als je meer dan dat wilt is het beter om in plaats van die miezerige turbos ,een grote te zetten ,daar zit de echte power ,veel geluk vriend,groetjes aan de koninging

 

uhh english?

 

sorry bout that

 

you want to shoot flames... get a power fc and exhaust (full exhaust works even better), turn the fuel up so you are running really rich, and rev... watch in rearview mirror for large glowing ***** and people on the sidewalk ducking for cover