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I Hate Non-seq

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Old 06-08-07, 01:47 PM
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I Hate Non-seq

It sucks. full throttle.......................................... .................................................. .............................................waiti ng........................waiting................. ....................vvvvvvrrrrrrrroooooooommmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm...


i dont know how you guys deal with it. i did it b/c my seq system took a **** on me. at least ill be ready for when i go single
Old 06-08-07, 01:58 PM
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When does boost finally kick in?
Old 06-08-07, 02:07 PM
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I liked mine, one of the best mods. I did to my car before giving up on the twins....Maybe you should try and downshift before you go full throttle....
Old 06-08-07, 02:57 PM
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No hes right it does suck, you have no power whatsoever unless you down shift into the 4500rpm range which means constantly downshifting into 1st or 2nd.
Old 06-08-07, 03:53 PM
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yeah it sucks. its either all boost or none. (kinda like a single) boost starts kicking in around 4300. i guess ill save a little gas then.
Old 06-08-07, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
yeah it sucks. its either all boost or none. (kinda like a single) boost starts kicking in around 4300. i guess ill save a little gas then.
yup, I feel ya... I hate my non-seq But at least the rats nest is gone...
Old 06-08-07, 04:03 PM
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I had a street port with non seq they spooled fast. My buddy has my old turbos and he loves them.
Old 06-08-07, 04:09 PM
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Are you guys still running the main cat?
Old 06-08-07, 04:22 PM
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seriously, how does nonseQ spool with all the right mods?. no full bolton, no cats. big streetport and ported exhaust?
Old 06-08-07, 04:55 PM
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i have full 3" no cats turbo back exhaust. aem ems. 99 turbo's (should spool faster then stock) hks intakes. greddy fmic.......


non-seq sucks.
Old 06-08-07, 05:06 PM
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At what rpm does your boost gauge begin to move and what rpm does it see full boost?
Old 06-08-07, 05:09 PM
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but no port?
how much of a difference will a portjob do?
Old 06-08-07, 05:11 PM
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With your boost starting to come into play around 4300, I'd be willing to bet that it's the butterfly on the back of your y-pipe. If it isn't removed or welded open, it will seem as if the only mod you did was remove the primary turbo. I had the same problem and hated non-seq, but when they "fixed" it(welded it open, not the best way to do it), it was a LOT better. Definitely worth looking into.
Old 06-08-07, 05:31 PM
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I bought my car with a full 3" open exhaust (no cats) and poor mans. It spooled stupid fast in first and second, third wasn't bad, neither was fourth. I could make boost standing still.

But with a stock wastegate it wouldn't ever stop boosting. So i had to put a cat on it. Now i'm a sad panda.
Old 06-08-07, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MADDSLOW
With your boost starting to come into play around 4300, I'd be willing to bet that it's the butterfly on the back of your y-pipe. If it isn't removed or welded open, it will seem as if the only mod you did was remove the primary turbo. I had the same problem and hated non-seq, but when they "fixed" it(welded it open, not the best way to do it), it was a LOT better. Definitely worth looking into.
I got my blockoff plate from 2751engineering.com for the charge control actuator. With no vacuum and pressure sources though, it should be always open, in the pulled in position. Taking it out completely is like the double throttle system, and is better than just leaving it open IMO.
Old 06-08-07, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AHarada
I got my blockoff plate from 2751engineering.com for the charge control actuator. With no vacuum and pressure sources though, it should be always open, in the pulled in position. Taking it out completely is like the double throttle system, and is better than just leaving it open IMO.
Yeah man. I already took care of it when I realized the weld idea was not the way to go. Thanks for the link, though! ~A-Rod
Old 06-08-07, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by evo2fd baby
...which means constantly downshifting into 1st ....
Old 06-08-07, 06:34 PM
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i did the full non-sequential mod and i dont have a problem with boost lag...

in 4th gear i have full boost by about 3800rpms
Old 06-08-07, 06:48 PM
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i believe they did the poor mans. they "wired" the flapper open (??) instead of welding it. either way, i now have boost but it takes forever.
Old 06-08-07, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
i did the full non-sequential mod and i dont have a problem with boost lag...

in 4th gear i have full boost by about 3800rpms



Full boost at 3,800rpms is laggy IMO especially when the stock seq get full boost at 2,400 rpms. It's really nice when your cruising on the highway at 70. You can just floor it in 5th to pass.
Old 06-08-07, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
i believe they did the poor mans. they "wired" the flapper open (??) instead of welding it. either way, i now have boost but it takes forever.
this is a good way to f@#k up a motor.
Old 06-08-07, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
i believe they did the poor mans. they "wired" the flapper open (??) instead of welding it. either way, i now have boost but it takes forever.
The wire probably came loose. That's what the place that originally did my non-seq mod did, and it came loose before I even got there to pick up the car. I'd check it if I were you, your non-seq is clearly not working the way it's supposed to.
Old 06-09-07, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by t-von
Full boost at 3,800rpms is laggy IMO especially when the stock seq get full boost at 2,400 rpms. It's really nice when your cruising on the highway at 70. You can just floor it in 5th to pass.


anything is "laggy" compared to sequentials getting full boost at 2400rpms.

also, i dont always feel the need to pass someone at full boost on the highway when i'm cruising in 5th gear. thats just me though, i dunno.
Old 06-09-07, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by internal comsucktion engi
this is a good way to f@#k up a motor.

i have my flapper wired open. how is that going to **** up my engine?
Old 06-09-07, 03:13 AM
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Originally Posted by AHarada
I got my blockoff plate from 2751engineering.com for the charge control actuator. With no vacuum and pressure sources though, it should be always open, in the pulled in position. Taking it out completely is like the double throttle system, and is better than just leaving it open IMO.
I checked this in a recent flow bench test and the CCV butterfly has no measurable negative effect. In fact, it may actually help flow a bit (assuming it's open) probably because the butterfly acts as an air straightener and reduces the tendency for the air to swirl (e.g., vortex) as it comes around the corner out of the turbo. You would be surprised at how much you can close the valve before it starts to restrict flow. As was pointed out, all you have to do is leave both vacuum lines off.


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