I Hate Non-seq
Sounds like we have a few owners who think a RX7 should drive like a V8. If that is what you want, do the LS1 conversion.
A 100% non-seq without cats, is a joy to drive as is a single. Stock ports work well if the setup is correct.
I hear the voices of too many pampered unexperienced newbs.
What a bunch of cry-babies we have here.
A 100% non-seq without cats, is a joy to drive as is a single. Stock ports work well if the setup is correct.
I hear the voices of too many pampered unexperienced newbs.
What a bunch of cry-babies we have here.
With a stock motor, full exhaust, m2 stock mount IC, power fc, m2 intake, and a profec B, I would see full boost around 3,600 depending on what gear. Alot of times I've see people running the engine super rich as in its coming up into boost. Or pulling alot of timing out of the engine to early. This will kill the response. Now, I'm not saying go out and pull a bunch of fuel, and put a bunch of timing into the engine. What I do mean to say is that you need to get a proper tune to get the best response down low. CJ
I had the full non-seq done in my car. I had no cats 3" all the way. I used a Greddy proffec B EBC and Pettit ECU with a Greddy FMIC. Full boost of 14 psi at 3800. With stock IC It was about 3400. I do agree on the passing though. I had to down shift into 4th to pass at about 70-90.
There is a significant difference between running 'full' nonsequential with a ported motor and low-backpressure exhaust, compared to taking a mostly stock setup and doing the poor mans nonsequential setup.
How this thread went so far without people considering what is being compared, is beyond me.
Dave
How this thread went so far without people considering what is being compared, is beyond me.
Dave
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It's a trade off. You can have either a simple system that is easy to work on. In which you simply can down shift if you want instant boost. Or ylo can have a the rast nest and a maze of crap to trouble shoot when something breaks. Personally I think non-sequential is a much better system than the stock sequentials. It's the first step towards a big single turbo.
Go and buy yourself Rob Baileys Solenoids! I have no problem what so ever wirth boosting!!!!!! EVERrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Well worth the money spent BIG TIME. Im running at 14psi right now and she pulls like a mother Flipper on Steriods. The only two things i have left to do is get my BNR's and my street port. Im telling you guys if you want to keep it sequential which if your keeping the twins you should do get those Solenoids. They kick ******* ***!
Agreed. Hit the gas and you're gone--now that's a lot more fun than waiting on spool or having to shift every time. I've only had one or two sequential "issues" in the 13 years I've owned the car.
With a stock motor, full exhaust, m2 stock mount IC, power fc, m2 intake, and a profec B, I would see full boost around 3,600 depending on what gear. Alot of times I've see people running the engine super rich as in its coming up into boost. Or pulling alot of timing out of the engine to early. This will kill the response. Now, I'm not saying go out and pull a bunch of fuel, and put a bunch of timing into the engine. What I do mean to say is that you need to get a proper tune to get the best response down low. CJ
Go and buy yourself Rob Baileys Solenoids! I have no problem what so ever wirth boosting!!!!!! EVERrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! Well worth the money spent BIG TIME. Im running at 14psi right now and she pulls like a mother Flipper on Steriods. The only two things i have left to do is get my BNR's and my street port. Im telling you guys if you want to keep it sequential which if your keeping the twins you should do get those Solenoids. They kick ******* ***!
Well what I mean is how it's more convenient to pass in 5th on the highway and not have to down shift all the time like with non-seq.
Sounds like we have a few owners who think a RX7 should drive like a V8. If that is what you want, do the LS1 conversion.
A 100% non-seq without cats, is a joy to drive as is a single. Stock ports work well if the setup is correct.
I hear the voices of too many pampered unexperienced newbs.
What a bunch of cry-babies we have here.
A 100% non-seq without cats, is a joy to drive as is a single. Stock ports work well if the setup is correct.
I hear the voices of too many pampered unexperienced newbs.
What a bunch of cry-babies we have here.
Cry babies? It's called preference. Regardless of what you think of peoples experience here, the facts are the Fd Rx7 was still engineered and designed as a street car. So having some response in stop and go traffic is necessary. As far as I'm concerned, the only REAL cry babies are the ones who have boost issues and completely junk the seq set-up because they don't have what you call "experience" to fix it.
I just got back my full non-sequential setup, with a few of the proper supporting mods. I love it. Definitely needs some tuning to be utilized any further, but it's FAR better than the "poor man's" conversion...
I look forward to your results. One of my personal future experiments will be to completely build a truely responsive non-seq set-up. This will include stock full non-twins, a purpose built exhaust ,and my own completely new custom made intake manifold. Since I'm currently fabbing everything for my 20b Fd conversion, I'm going to install my older REW engine into my 1st gen.
What exactly is the "full non-seq"? I know it involes welding a door open, cutting another out, and porting the wastegate. So is that all there is to it?
I've discussed the "rich man's non-seq" with Garfinkle and it definitely sounds like the best option for non-seq.
I've discussed the "rich man's non-seq" with Garfinkle and it definitely sounds like the best option for non-seq.
The "rich" and "full" are the same i believe.
I used to run a pettit streetport with full, catless exhaust and all the bolt-on's. I hated the seq transition, tried the "poorman's" route and had 13lbs @ ~4k rpm. Then pulled everything off, got some low mileage turbos, ported, matched everything up, welded the flapper door - the difference was huge. Whether it was the newer turbos or portwork IDK, full boost came on ~ 3.5k rpm and the car was a joy to drive!
I did the poor man's conversion and get full boost at 3500rpm (12psi). I get 7psi at around 3000 rpm. I noticed that I got better response and quicker spool up when I put on my large SMIC compared to the stock intercooler. I did like the sequential setup, but I love the nonsequential setup more.
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