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Quick question. Is the water temp sender gauge the same wire as the coolant level switch. Cause I took my harness all apart and I'm left with a wire that connects the two. One end by the spark plugs and the other by where the radiator hose connects. I'm just making sure this is normal before I wrap it all back up
johnny, its the first plug after the big bushing, yellow (2 wires) with black connector if a remember... f****** jdm harness lol, level switch is brown for sure, 1 wire
just remove the line all the way back to the gas tank, leave a little and put a small breather on it and run the line up above the chassis area to keep crap out of it.
So I'm guessing I screwed up and cut the grounds completely off on accident last night.
Any ideas on how to alleviate this problem? If I have to buy another harness, so be it. But If I could possibly make new grounds that would be great too.
does anyone know is doing this will interfere with an auto turned manual? i have an auto dash harness with the modded x05 and x14 to work with the manual harness...
Revival of this thread... I'm in the middle of cleaning up my harness for single turbo... I saw people saying to connect the 3 remaining blk/white wires after the first junction when keeping the IAC. But I noticed there was a 4th blk/white coming off of that first junction...it was for AWS. So I tied the one blk/white into the IAC and cut the remaining 2 that went to the grey & blue connectors on the rats nest.... idk why you would have to keep those other dead legs? Can anyone clear this up?
Question for all, I had to rebuild my engine this winter and went ahead with performing this single turbo wiring harness conversion. I accidentally cut the Water Thermo-Sensor plug which connects to ECU 1J and 3E. With this sensor cut will this prevent the car from starting? I apparently haven't been able to have the car turnover as it only cranks at this time. Additional info, I have done a auto to manual swap and cut all remaining wires, connectors for the auto transmission and I have been using a PowerFC to replace the ECU (which was working, starting, and running prior to this).
for testing I bypassed the fuel pump and noticed it turns on and runs fine when using the Diagnostic bypass, but haven't noticed the fuel pump turning on or pressure when attempting to turn the car on. Oil Pressure is moving as I have attempted to remove the relay for the CGI and crank the car 3 times in order to bring oil into the engine compartments. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The car should start with the water temp sensor unplugged but if you CAN get it to start it will run terribly and probably not stay running. That sensor is one of the primary ECU sensors.
Hey Dale, or anyone else with knowledge of the wiring harness.
Is there anything within the ecu or wiring harness that will act as a fuel cutoff? for some reason the fuel pump is wired properly and will only start when I jump it via "Diagnostic box". Turning the key to the on position does not send power to the fuel pump.
The Ecu controls 2 fuel pump relays, the pump voltage drop relay and the main pump relay.
It's not wired thru the 3 engine harness ecu plugs, its thru the 1 body harness ecu plug that stays in the car when you pull the engine harness if that makes sense. Ignore the red circles in the below picture. The pump voltage drop is pin 1K, the main relay ground pin is 1T which isnt listed.
This thread explains it very well https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ay-bad-862455/
The Ecu controls 2 fuel pump relays, the pump voltage drop relay and the main pump relay.
It's not wired thru the 3 engine harness ecu plugs, its thru the 1 body harness ecu plug that stays in the car when you pull the engine harness if that makes sense. Ignore the red circles in the below picture. The pump voltage drop is pin 1K, the main relay ground pin is 1T which isnt listed.
This thread explains it very well https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ay-bad-862455/
Thanks for the assist and information, I'll look into it this weekend.
Its a "single turbo harness". Its not literal. You can leave the harness as is but it will look sloppy to have so many dead plugs
ok. Thanks for the quick reply. I just want to try to get the car back together as soon as possible. Skipping the harness at this time will certainly benefit that time frame.
08-31-11, 02:40 PM
