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How to remove UIM to replace Lead Coil

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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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PA How to remove UIM to replace Lead Coil

I need to replace my lead coil, but I am not sure what components I need to remove to get to the coils. I went non sequential, so no rats nest. I can clearly see the coils, but I do not want to take apart to much if it is not necessary. Do I just need to remove certain nuts and bolts on the UIM to lift it up enough to replace the lead coil or do I also have to remove my greddy elbow and throttle body. Any help will be appreciated. I just want her to start.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 12:02 PM
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Just go ahead and remove the UIM, TB and elbow. If everything has been removed like you mentioned, it shouldn't take but 10 minutes to take that stuff off.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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Check the FSM, if you don't have a copy there is a searchable copy posted here on the forum for free, it should show you how to take it off. BUT, there are 6 bolts if I remember correctly to get it off. 5 on the passenger side that are vertical, and one horizontal bolt just to the left of the TB and to the right of the vac lines that run into the front of the UIM. I believe all are 12mm. Dont' forget to unplug all the vac lines as well as electrical. The AIT sensor is underneath the UIM so don't forget that one, you may need to start lifting it out then unplug that one.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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Ok. If I were to remove only the elbow and the nuts and bolts on the UIM, would the TB lift with the UIM without removing the bolts connecting the TB to the UIM, just so I have enough room to replace the lead coil? I never removed the TB or UIM before, so I am not familiar with taking those parts off. I just don't want to have any problems putting it back together.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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No you don't have to remove the TB from the UIM. I do it that was all the time. Really you could even leave the elbow on the TB... I know it seems a bit much at first, but this is REALLY easy to take off and replace. You won't mess anything up, just take your time. Really only about 5 bolts and various wire clips and vac lines..

**edit, I will add I would place some tape or something over the holes leading into the LIM to keep anything from falling down in there. Better safe than sorry always on that one.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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From: Philadelphia
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Originally Posted by oo7arkman
No you don't have to remove the TB from the UIM. I do it that was all the time. Really you could even leave the elbow on the TB... I know it seems a bit much at first, but this is REALLY easy to take off and replace. You won't mess anything up, just take your time. Really only about 5 bolts and various wire clips and vac lines..

**edit, I will add I would place some tape or something over the holes leading into the LIM to keep anything from falling down in there. Better safe than sorry always on that one.
I planned on covering the LIM to be safe, but thank you very much for the tip. So any vac line and wire clips need to be removed from the UIM before I lift it up? I will change the coil when I get home from work. Hopefully everything works out.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 02:31 PM
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I would disconnect all that you can get to before lifting it. But you can get to a few of them easier once you start to lift the LIM. I forgot about one other bolt. Another 12mm on the back side of the UIM on the passenger side running horizontally. It is connected to a ground wire that connects to the firewall.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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The ground wire on the back of the UIM that goes to the firewall is connected on the firewall side with a black clip (spade type connector). You can just disconnect it from the firewall side. Also, instead of just lifting up the UIM to get to the coils, I would just completely take the UIM off, it's easy. Also, you will have to disconnect the coolant in and out hoses to/from the throttle body.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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just removing the TB will do the job also just for the coil, no need to remove the UIM. 4 nuts on the TB and the water line with the TPS and the throttle cable.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pacman74
The ground wire on the back of the UIM that goes to the firewall is connected on the firewall side with a black clip (spade type connector). You can just disconnect it from the firewall side. Also, instead of just lifting up the UIM to get to the coils, I would just completely take the UIM off, it's easy. Also, you will have to disconnect the coolant in and out hoses to/from the throttle body.
I wish mine was like that. Even my factory one was a solid wire from the UIM to the firewall...

I think he was planning on removing the uim, not just lifting it. Though I could be wrong.

**reading your sig I feel your pain. I loved my RC51 too. Great bike.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by oo7arkman

**reading your sig I feel your pain. I loved my RC51 too. Great bike.
Haha, thanks for your empathy.... It definitely was a great bike!
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 06:34 PM
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You might want to relocate coils while your at it. Makes future testing and replacement a 10 minute job.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:18 AM
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Excellent. I have to do this same very thing and have been reading up. The coolant line below my TB wouldn't budge so I couldn't remove it. I tried with enough force but also wary of slipping and causing damage elsewhere. I may even cut it because I have a new one. The UIM has many attachments but it seems easier to remove if that's all that is needed. The FSM doesn't say anything about removing the TB or elbow..but it seems like it'll make the job easier. Let us know which way you go about it OP.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Ignition coil.pdf (25.0 KB, 133 views)
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