silvr94r2

iTrader: (3)

My 94 R2 i got for $10k cash in 98 from a really good friend who bought it new. I was there for that.....he paid $32k cash out the door for it....i still have all the papers and everything.

My girls 93 R1 we bought off of Ebay for $4,500 w/no motor or trans or interior. We then got it repainted for $3k and i've been slowly putting it back together. I started with a complete shell and have it almost back together.....every bolt and clip is new.

The 93 Touring i picked up from a kid who only had it for 2 weeks and wrecked it.....w/only 34k miles. I picked that up for $1500.....complete car....although most of the front was wrecked. At least the motor and all suspension and interior were good.

jeff48

Bought the super clean '94 touring automatic with 58K miles in January of 2002 (Bose system and OEM glass moonroof). Paid 6K with foglamps missing (replaced off parts trader for $85). Needed turbos, installed used set (53K) for $250. Added HKS DP and A-pillar Pods (a single and a double), boost, A/F and Temo guages, slotted Brembos, Tires and Hawk + pads. Just ordered a used RE Amimeya Intake for $90 of the forum. Still have under 8K in a mostly stock car that runs consistent 3.8 40-70 times and 4.9-5.4 0-60's before installing the intake.

TailHappy

I paid $13.7k for my '93 R1 with 100k on the chassis and about 20k on the streetported engine. Already had an ECU, cold air intake, GReddy elbow, hard intercooler lines, PFS exhaust, silicone hoses, K&N, downpipe, boost & mixture gauges, shocks, new tires, and a cool illegal silver tint job. The interior was typically worn and the body and paint were in good condition but showed the miles. Found it on Autotrader, where they were asking $15.5k.

Domestic513

I got mine just 2 months ago, for $4500. Less then 1k miles on the new motor, tranny, and turbos. why only 4500, cause it was hit in the front, but not bad at all.

JConn2299

Only 8,000 miles and bone stock before the motor blew. Whoa! I think that's the worst case of new car engine longevity I've ever heard. I wonder what the original owner did to it?

SaulV

The worst thing you can do to a rotary engine is to baby the engine. If you ever go to a MAZDA dealer. ask mechanics, they will tell you. I just did the compression test on my engine 9.4 / 8.9 / 9.2
Based on a 10 for brand new engines. I use it for a daily driver, My mechanic has shown me compression tests on engines that have been "babied" literally and their compression results didnt even reach 8.0 and their cars had 43.000Miles and the other one had 52.000. Mine has 100K I have a bone stock car with that much high compression results. eNGINE runs like new and pulls great. The key to this is the fact that the car is bone stock and driven daily.
Just a comment for those trying to buy one.
Try Buying one with no mods and remember a car with low miles doesnt really mean good engine. and if its modded. Its a must and a Plus that the engine will last you longer as long as the FD has been properly tuned with an upgraded ECU otherwise if its modded RX7 with no ECU upgrade. Be sure! that engine will die on you soon.

Modded RX7s without a Tuned ECU upgrade are just time bomb waiting to blow engines. It doesnt matter how many upgrades you do and how fast your FD pulls if not properly tunned with the right ECU. That Fd will eat engines. ITS JUST COMMON SENSE
Peace
Saul V

XL1022

Thanks For All The Responses Guys... I needed to know what price I should look for later on..
Peace..

Nathan Kwok

How are you guys getting such high compression numbers? The factory spec for a brand new engine is 8.5kg/cm^2 as per the shop manual. How are people getting 9+ on used engines?

rtryrktrx7

Posted by Forever22@msn.com
wow u guys are real lucky, i looked around for 6 months before i bought my 94 mb touring for 21500 w 35 k mi on it every 7 i looked at under 20000 was inferior to mine purchased in 20months ago

For those who think the price is to high...
You get what you pay for.


Paid $17,000 for my 93 touring with 38,000 on it 41/2 years ago. Paid $19,900 for my 94 touring with 21,000 on it 31/2 years ago.

SaulV

The compression ratio is 9.9 / 10 for brand new engines. Thats for a 93-95 US FD3s. Is never there though, yet a brand new engine should give you at least 9.6 to 9.8 on average.

100k Engines in good condition should give you between 8.6 to 9.3

At the dealer they gave me 3 set of number so I dont know which on is which but if you have low compression is because you dont drive that rotary often.

rotary-tt

Paid $11k for mine in Jan 2000 with 74k mi. The paint is not perfect, and a couple of plastic pieces were missing from the interior. The front end shook when driven and the tires and exhaust was shot. New tires and resurfacing the rotors fixed the shakes. Still wish I'd have paid top dollar for a perfect low mileage FD... oh well. Gave me extra cash to play around with mods.

importadrenelin

Paid $7500 plus $950 for S&H. Paid $4K for new reman with upgrades so about $12.5K altogether..
1993 BB Touring
-Paint is good
-2 door dings
-Inerior needs some sprucing up

Overall VERY HAPPY

man_of_steel

$9500....beautiful black auto touring, bose system working, a few problems easily solved...great compression, good boost (turbo mumero 2 pissing me off right now)...plus a racing beat spoiler and a front air dam. Oh yeah, 74K when I bough it on the original engine

Nathan Kwok

It looks like your dealer is rating compression on a scale of 1-10. FWIW, the proper way to measure compression is either in psi or kg/cm^2. I agree letting carbon build up will lower compression, but we should all be using the same scale here. Telling me compression is "9.0" or "8.0" is useless if you don't include the units. Also, the 3 numbers are for the 3 rotor faces, although it looks like the compression was only tested on one rotor, not good. Also, don't confuse compression ratio with compression pressure, two different things. Compression ratio is simply the ratio of volume of the combustion chamber at BDC to TDC, it doesn't change over time, and for 3rd gens it is 9.0:1. Compression "pressure", what you get checked out at the dealer, it is a measure of how well the chambers hold the pressurized air and gives an indication of sealing. The two are related but don't get them mixed up. This is the first time I've seen evidence of the 1-10 scale and it can be very misleading since units of kg/cm^2 are very similar to a 1-10 scale, but in this case the maximum possible should be around 8.5 kg/cm^2. I must emphasize the proper unit of measurement is either in kg/cm^2 or in psi, with a maximum (factory new spec) being 8.5kg/cm^2 or 120psi, respectively. If you're not sure what I'm talking about, check out the shop manual.

jmo87

iTrader: (2)

$11,650. 67k miles, excellent interior/exterior, battery relocation, catback, and boost gauge

Donovan

$24k '94 R2 46k miles from a dealer in '98. It was a litle high but was in good condition. You do get what you pay for. The bad thing is that with the FD you KEEP PAYING!!

jspecracer7

$6300........with front bumper/side skirts/rear wing/huge smic/R33 GTR fuel pump/intakes/frontpipe/midpipe/trust exhaust/rims/paintjob/boost gauge/water temp gauge/oil temp gauge/autometer tach/rev-speed meter/os giken twin/blah.blah.blah.blah.

jon mitrosky

i got juiced strait up...i bought mine in alexandria va, in june 2001 ,I payed 11,500 for a 93 r1,montego blue, what i didnt know was it was already leaking oil...suspension was shot...needed brakes....basically i saw the rx7 stars and i told him i wanted it no matter what.(no warrenty)...so fast forward to modern day...its sitting across the street waiting to be fixed. I need about $1,000 just to get it running . I was going to sell it for $7000 with it probably needing $1000 to $1500 worth of work..but i dont know anymore...its got 116000 miles on it and i dont know if engine was rebuilt or not...

jon mitrosky

if anyone interested let me know.....ha ha

Rotary93

93 R1 Bone stock with 60K miles
$10K I got a nice deal!

KZ1

how the hells ome of you guys are finding these deals is crazy, I have never heard of FDs going that cheap. I really don't like threads like this. We as a community to to strive to protect our investments. that means not neccesarliy disclosing what we paid. we need do what we can to keep the price up of these things. eveytime a new member comes on and says he is deciding on a cr for liek maybe 17.5-19k some bozo comes on and says " you are getting ripped off, I paid 3100$ with new engien and turbos" c'mon guys, let's stick together. persoanlly I think 35k for an FD is a steal. I woud lbuy it in a heartbeat

Enthu

iTrader: (1)

I paid $13k for my 94 MB PEP in february 2001, +1k for taxes/registration + 6973.20 for engine rebuild and several other things + 900 for new tires. then another 600 for EGR ( I really wish I knew I didn't need it then). I still don't feel ripped off aside from the EGR valve. I really wish I knew of the better engine builders such as Pineapple at the time...

7thHeaven

OMFG@! All you guys seem to have the good deals and all....I am going to view my prospective 94 FD in 3 hours....

It's gonna cost me an arm and leg...lowest he'll go is $ 18K...btw, it's a Touring with 34,000 miles on it...should I go with it?

Someone please answer soon!

Thanks!

KZ1

7th Heaven

That is a godd price fo rsuch low mileage. every once in awhile these threads come up, some times the guys posting are low like this one, an dsometimes you get guys who have bought the really good ones in nice shape and paid a premium. these are sports cars. you can get some that are pretty beat up, and some that are mint. low miles is a great asset. and 18k is a good price. and it isn;t just teh engien that wears with milleage. poaint does, seats, bushings, etc. all adds up, much cheaper in the begining to pay 18-20k for one. in my opinion. In canada I haev seen them go for between 25k and 30k. 25 being high miles and 30k$low miles.