having trouble getting my fd to run right after an engine bay fire, lots of stuff replaced, lots of stuff could be wrong, but here is my immediate question.

compression check shows 85psi in the front rotor and 100 in the rear, is this enough to start and run normally? i know its not "healthy" but would it cause the motor to flat out not rev?

what its doing:

hard to start, starts- idles OKAY not great, press throttle revs VERY VERY slow, coughs sputters and backfires around 2800 rpm.

like i said i know there could be many many things wrong here, (basically had to rewire the entire car) but what im most concerned with is the compression before i go any further.

thanks

 

That should run ok. Did you replace injectors?

Are you using the stock ECU and is it throwing any codes?

 

I say yes. I've seen cars with mid 80's drive and pull perfectly.

Though, like most, I would recommend a rebuild. Having over 15psi difference between the two rotors shows it is wearing and on its way out. Best rebuild while wear is minimal. When rotaries blow, they can easily take out your turbo's and jack up perfectly reusable housings. Preventative rebuilds are often a wise choice when given signs like this.

As far as the way it's running, the bigger question is what EXACTLY have you done recently? Rewired why? Mods?

 

Vacuum line to the MAP sensor OK?

 

the rewire came from a small engine fire recently which took out basically anything plasic or wired in the engine bay, we installed a harness from another auto car, some things had to be respliced as funds prevented replacing the main harness on the driver side of the car which mostly survived other than the loss of some connectors. now with everything pluged, all plastic pieces replaced, and all unusable parts replaced she seems mostly okay, power to everything that should have power, tested ecu, tested map, tested ... bunches of other things. i'm glad to hear that the compression is not unusable as a rebuild/replace at this time is out of the question financally, this fire has already set me back roughly 2k (had to replace driver side fender, front bumper, and hood due to damage done by the fire department, hey at least they got the fire out!)
on monday we'll pin out the entire ECU and make sure that absolutly every thing is as it should be. *sigh* its gonna be a long day, but it looks like were gonna have to take the methodical aproach.

something to be noted, it seems to me that the turbos are spooling up ALOT around 2k, i mean i can really hear them spinning up like. seems odd that they should be spinning up under no load pre 2k. also getting air blowing past the BOV while holding steady at 1800.. is that normal? hooked up a boost sensor and got vac to zero so its not actually building boost, at least in the manifold.

i dont know, i may need to make another thread about how to diagnose this problem, there is just way way too much info and it makes my brain hurt, i've been pulling 8 hour days on this car for many many weeks. im fried

 

ya checked that today, there were two problems there, one, i had installed a one way checkvalve to the boost sensor instead of a gas filter (fail) and spliced in the wrong wires. corrected all issues and it starts easier but still revs slow and wont go past 2800 ish.

i did use a JDM boos sensor/mapsensor that shouldn't be a problem should it?

also.. the boost sensor IS the mapsensor right??

 

Yes,... It's mounted on the upper firewall, with the vacuum line going to the manifold just below the throttle body.

 

ok good, then yes all good there