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I use this Miata hub kit. It came with plug & play adapters, and a clip that hooks up to the aftermarket horn button (the orange one). No ghetto-rigging required.
^^Yes indeed. I run that piece in my FC vert and it works well, esp for the money. I have a Works Bell shorty hub and Works Bell Rapfix II quick release in the FD, and absolute love it. But you're paying for the top quality and quick release function. The Finish Line product is very nice
Finish Line Performance usually has the Miata hubs. They do go out of stock now and then.
Link: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php
You can search the forums on miata.net for other sources.
Update: Finish Line Performance hubs are now discontinued.
Finish Line Performance usually has the Miata hubs. They do go out of stock now and then.
Link: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/store/home.php
You can search the forums on miata.net for other sources.
Update: 90-97 Miata Finish Line Performance hubs are now discontinued.
I'm trying to figure that out. I found one site that has the Daikei adapter but it's $170(!). There are really cheap ones that I won't use. The Works Bell appears to still be available but I don't like it's appearance much. The NRG Short adapter is about $100 but as far as I can tell it requires some trimming to make enough clearance and doesn't have the airbag resistor in the kit.
I don't need the airbag resistor (non airbag 1991 R1 jdm car)
Do you know how much trimming is required? I've searched but didn't come up with some how to...
Thanks for posting this solution for the fixing the horn. The previous owner of my RX7 changed the hub and steering wheel. In doing so, he got rid of the clock spring and never hooked up the horn. This atleast allows me to have a working horn so that I can get the car inspected.
With the HKB hub you shouldn't have to do the hair clip mod, no. Just leave your clock spring installed, and the hub should have a wire with spades on each end that go from the horn wire on your clockspring (green with red tracer) to the backside of your horn button
I still have my clock spring installed but the wires/plugs were cut. I do have enough wire left though for the horn & air bag (green & red stripe to the back of the horn correct?) now I need help wiring up the resistor. Any help would be greatly appreciated fellas.
This write up is to help those of you who have installed an aftermarket steering wheel and no longer have a working horn. After much searching I found a link to NRG where they made the horn work with Honda. Keep in mind it’s not all peachy. On the third gen RX7 it’s a PITA because the area to do this mod is totally different. No special tools needed to make this work.
Things needed for Mod.
-Hair clip
-a couple male to female connectors
-misc tools (screw driver, crimps, snips, pliers, )
-light tester
-electrical tape
- soldering iron with heat wraps(if you have them)
- 21mm socket and ratchet
First thing you do is grab the hair clip and snip it so the female connector can fit tight. Then get a small nail and tape the area the connector will slide on. This is so it doesn’t slide out in the future .I used this because it has a unique bend that it comes back to its original bend even if you bend it. Attachment 712546
Next connect get wire and crimp the female end to it . You can wrap this with tape if you want. I used heat wraps for this. Just a extra precaution so if it ever falls it doesn’t set off the horn like crazy. Attachment 712547
You will need to make a bracket of some sort. I used nice gauge bracket I had laying around bend it to form like this and test fit it on the mount . Look for the other pics for reference Attachment 712548 Attachment 712549
Look under the dash column area and look for this clip. It should have been connected to your factory clock spring. Locate the green wire and push it out of itsconnector pin. After that get a female connector and crimp that sucker on there. Again use tape or heat wrap when you make your final connection on this area because this wire is HOT. Attachment 712550
Hers how it looks installed on the factory screm mounts. Attachment 712551
Here is the set-up mounted with the steering wheel so you can see where the clip makes it connection . This will keep the clip pushed up on the base of the hub adapter creating the circuit. Attachment 712552
The bracket is super sturdy as is but I added more precautions . I ziptied the braket to the mount and installed another screw so it doesnt slid down. Attachment 712553
Final thing to do is wrap the whole set up with electrical tape minus the hairclip. Just to be safe and zip tie in each ends of the tape. install your plastics Attachment 712554
Install your wheel w/ quick relase . And you are DONE! now you have a working horn. with your aftermarket steering wheel set up. Attachment 712555
off topic but what size Nardi deep corn is this? 330mm?
I know this was a few years ago, did you have a quick release when you did this?
If so, what did you use?
It's fine if you don't remember, just got an FD and was curious
Felt it was relevant... we saw what Alex did all those years ago and just executed the concept a little differently. We took a small piece of aluminum and made an L bracket. It's mounted on an unused threaded hole on the clockspring assembly. We happen to have a weird screw that was the exact thread pitch.
This is with a momo hub that has that inductive wheel on the back. Brown wire with white stripe is the horn wheel on this car and we bolted it to the aluminum L with an M4 bolt and nylon lock nut. It maintains constant contact with the inductive wheel and the horn works as it should. Same as what Alex proposed but a little less........ bulky
I installed my Momo with a Daikei S-601 hub, a high quality made in Japan hub, which retains the factory clock spring and comes with harness adapters for both the horn and the airbag light? Easy-peasy, no cutting required and fully reversible? It was ~$100 if I recall.
