how do yoy prevent boost creep?
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally posted by rynberg
Actually, if you just want the car safe to drive, pull the restrictor pill out of the vacuum line between the turbo nipple and the wastegate actuator. This should keep your boost to safe levels (should reduce it to close to 7 psi) -- and it's free and won't require any adjusting of valves.
Sorry I gave you a hard time, didn't realize you were in the middle of a move. I hate moving....
Actually, if you just want the car safe to drive, pull the restrictor pill out of the vacuum line between the turbo nipple and the wastegate actuator. This should keep your boost to safe levels (should reduce it to close to 7 psi) -- and it's free and won't require any adjusting of valves.
Sorry I gave you a hard time, didn't realize you were in the middle of a move. I hate moving....
hondas:
are you having a hard time following my pic ?
just follow the lines. There will be 2 actuators. the one on top is the wastegate one and the one underneath is the precontrol. THey are a rust color circular things with each having 2 nipples.
just attatch the lines like I said and keep the wastegate valve all the way open counterclockwise.
or right now you can do what rynberg said. To find the pill you want to find the line that is labeled boost controller goes here in that pic. Then you just feel the line with your hands it and its like a small BB bullet thing and you just keep pushing it until it comes out of one end of the lines.
good luck moving
if you cant figure it out try to stay out of boost if you can!! just think blown motor when yuo want to boost haha
are you having a hard time following my pic ?
just follow the lines. There will be 2 actuators. the one on top is the wastegate one and the one underneath is the precontrol. THey are a rust color circular things with each having 2 nipples.
just attatch the lines like I said and keep the wastegate valve all the way open counterclockwise.
or right now you can do what rynberg said. To find the pill you want to find the line that is labeled boost controller goes here in that pic. Then you just feel the line with your hands it and its like a small BB bullet thing and you just keep pushing it until it comes out of one end of the lines.
good luck moving
if you cant figure it out try to stay out of boost if you can!! just think blown motor when yuo want to boost haha
Originally posted by rynberg
Why should it? The only difference in non-sequential is the rpm ranges where both turbos are operating is different. Actually, with the full non-seq, your boost problems would be worse...
Just get a boost controller. If you don't want the hassle of a manual, spend $300 for a Profec and be done with it. You can sloppily adjust a Profec in 5 minutes, less with a passenger. "Fine" tuning might take all of 15 minutes.
Why should it? The only difference in non-sequential is the rpm ranges where both turbos are operating is different. Actually, with the full non-seq, your boost problems would be worse...

Just get a boost controller. If you don't want the hassle of a manual, spend $300 for a Profec and be done with it. You can sloppily adjust a Profec in 5 minutes, less with a passenger. "Fine" tuning might take all of 15 minutes.
Originally posted by hondasr4kids
what will happen if I do the valve thing and not take the pills out because I can't find them.
what will happen if I do the valve thing and not take the pills out because I can't find them.
As Mahjik pointed out in your other thread, you might have the turbos with the restriction built into the nipples. If this is the case, the only way to fix this will be to drill out the nipples or to install an electronic boost controller.
If it isn't the case, I can't see how you are getting that much boost without the restrictor pill in place.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Austin, Tx
well I looked at the nipple and don't see the pills, they look fine, so if I install a electronic boost controller, that will help for sure? Another thing I don't think my boost gauge is very accurate. is giving me boost cut at actually 14 psi. and before that it didn't give any cut at all but was reading 12~13 psi so the gauge could be off by 2 psi. should it be 12 psi boost cut?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Austin, Tx
are the nipples here because this where I didn't check so pic didn't come up. Are the nipple at the actual actuator or the other nipple?
Last edited by MR_Rick; Jul 4, 2003 at 04:20 PM.
Originally posted by hondasr4kids
are the nipples here because this where I didn't check so pic didn't come up. Are the nipple at the actual actuator or the other nipple?
are the nipples here because this where I didn't check so pic didn't come up. Are the nipple at the actual actuator or the other nipple?
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,393
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From: Austin, Tx
Well I got to Virginia (at sea level) and my boost is fine. I guess sice I was at high elevetion I was getting the very bad boost spikes. Thanx for all your help
How do you go about porting the wastegate??? I bought and installed a Blitz SBC ID boost controller and still get boost readings of 16-17 psi!!!! This occurs at low rpm's in the higher gears. I really think I need to port the wastegate but I'm having trouble finding a post or website with instructions on how to do so. Please help!! Anyone!!
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