how do yoy prevent boost creep?
07-02-03, 09:52 AM
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how do yoy prevent boost creep?
I'm wondering if there is a way to stop boost creep. I'm getting 12-14 PSI and is steady and no fuel cut.
07-02-03, 10:00 AM
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Boost creep occurs when the wastegate can not bleed enough exhaust away from the turbo. This generally happens when you have a free flowing exhaust and intake system. The turbo spins fast enough to quickly build boost and the wastegate can't keep up by bleeding the necessary amount of exhaust for your desired boost amount. You can either port the wastegate or restrict your exhaust. The cheapest way to restrict the exhaust is by putting a small restrictor plate between the DP and the MP. It's better than popping your engine.
This can also occur at 4500rpm in sequential mode. You can get the famous boost spike. This happens because the 2nd turbo is getting prespooled TOO much, and when 4500rpm hits, all that boost pressure get's bleed in giving you a boost spike. This can also be fixed by playing around with the prespooler and the wastegate.
You better hope you don't have the factory ECU. 14psi means trouble.
This can also occur at 4500rpm in sequential mode. You can get the famous boost spike. This happens because the 2nd turbo is getting prespooled TOO much, and when 4500rpm hits, all that boost pressure get's bleed in giving you a boost spike. This can also be fixed by playing around with the prespooler and the wastegate.
You better hope you don't have the factory ECU. 14psi means trouble.
07-02-03, 10:07 AM
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Yes I know 14 psi is trouble. I don't boost it too often but I did today to see how the new clutch feels. My boost patter is 12-10-12 ~14 sometime I get 12 and some other time I get 14 most of the time I get 12 but today I notice that I got a full 14 and I didn't like it and the worst part was that it was consistent, so i was more like it was suppost to be that way. I don't know if I have a moddified ECU either but to play it safe I'm assuming that I don't
07-02-03, 11:54 AM
#5
If you don't have a boost controller, you should install one. A manual controller will work well, and is inexpensive/easy to install. Do not install the pre spool controller unless you are still having problems after the boost controller install & adjustment.
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobi...controller.htm
07-02-03, 11:55 AM
#6
I see a blown motor coming up real soon if you keep that up
people warn not to be asses but because they have had it happen to them. When we say 10psi is all on the stock ecu that's what that means. 14 is rediculous even with an upgraded intercooler and computer that's pushing it without injectors and fuel pump.
If you can't afford an ecu don't drive the car until you can figure out how to get the boost to 10psi or below all the time.
people warn not to be asses but because they have had it happen to them. When we say 10psi is all on the stock ecu that's what that means. 14 is rediculous even with an upgraded intercooler and computer that's pushing it without injectors and fuel pump.
If you can't afford an ecu don't drive the car until you can figure out how to get the boost to 10psi or below all the time.
07-02-03, 11:59 AM
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Can't live without boost.
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Originally posted by Snook
I see a blown motor coming up real soon if you keep that up
people warn not to be asses but because they have had it happen to them. When we say 10psi is all on the stock ecu that's what that means. 14 is rediculous even with an upgraded intercooler and computer that's pushing it without injectors and fuel pump.
If you can't afford an ecu don't drive the car until you can figure out how to get the boost to 10psi or below all the time.
I see a blown motor coming up real soon if you keep that up
people warn not to be asses but because they have had it happen to them. When we say 10psi is all on the stock ecu that's what that means. 14 is rediculous even with an upgraded intercooler and computer that's pushing it without injectors and fuel pump.
If you can't afford an ecu don't drive the car until you can figure out how to get the boost to 10psi or below all the time.
OOooooooohhhh how I love the repeated lectures.....
Good advice Snook!-Dan
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07-02-03, 12:05 PM
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Yeah, snook is exactly right. That exact thing happened to me, running sequential w/ non ported wastegate, 11psi, FMIC, intake, full exhaust and one day it desided to eat an apex seal... Now i gatta get 2 new rotor and a new rotor housing not including all the other costs. Your best bet would be to go with restricting the exhaust like Flybye said. If you dont do anything to help your situation and you keep driving your car its just ganna take a **** on you one of theses days, so dont say the forum didnt warn you. They warned me I didnt listen, now my car is in pieces all over my garage!!!
07-02-03, 10:01 PM
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Well I got the electrical proble m fix. It was the cable for the ashtray light got pinch on the shifter plate. As for the boos problem, I just won't boost it. I don't like it the way it is so I just take it easy. I looked at the ECU and looks stock from the outside. Even if it is chipped ECU I still don't like to push the stockers that hard. So a boost controller will fix that? or the home depo thing that I keep reading about? I just don't know where it will get hook up too. Anyone in Va. that can help me with this one?
07-03-03, 07:02 AM
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Man, 11psi and your car took a dump on you. Damn. I have a downpipe and no other flow mods. After the second turbo kicks in, I'm reading about 10 to 11 psi from the guage.
Do I really need to worry about the car going to 11 psi?
Thanks. Oh, and I'm picking her back up today. I got her in early June, and she needed a repaint. Can't wait to pick her up!!! Shitty, Florida beaten down white to Pearlescent White!
ERIK
Do I really need to worry about the car going to 11 psi?
Thanks. Oh, and I'm picking her back up today. I got her in early June, and she needed a repaint. Can't wait to pick her up!!! Shitty, Florida beaten down white to Pearlescent White!
ERIK
07-03-03, 07:48 AM
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Originally posted by adam c
I gave you the link for the Home Depot boost controller. Did you look at it? It's not hard to install.
I gave you the link for the Home Depot boost controller. Did you look at it? It's not hard to install.
07-03-03, 10:02 AM
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Originally posted by hondasr4kids
Will going not seq. would help?
Will going not seq. would help?
Just get a boost controller. If you don't want the hassle of a manual, spend $300 for a Profec and be done with it. You can sloppily adjust a Profec in 5 minutes, less with a passenger. "Fine" tuning might take all of 15 minutes.
07-03-03, 11:25 AM
#16
rynberg actually non sequential does make it totally easier to control and lower boost.
Instead of spikes he will just get creep if the wastegate isn't ported. And will also just need 1 valve to adjust boost with. The boost is smooth and steady no after transition surprises.
but it's stupid to go non sequential just to control your boost because you dont want to buy a controller or setup the manual valves.
You said you will have a hard time adjusting the valves. Its simple. You want to have the wastegate valve all the way open (turn counterclockwise) and the prespool all the way closed (clockwise). That will be your lowest boost possible and depending on what it gives you then you can adjust from there. If your secondary isnt making a lot of boost then open the prespool or if the primary isnt making enough then close the wastegate valve. Remember to take the pills out of the lines because the valves replace them.
Here's a pic:
Just put the valves where they are in the pic and follow the lines
you will need:
-2 valves Home Depot part # PB9106-CP, it's called a "1/4" Tube to Tube valve W/Insert," available in the plumbing department
-4 sections of 3 inches of 1/4 inch copper tube
-7 feet of 6mm vacuum hose (3 1/2 feet for each valve);
Just get something that fits around the copper pretty snug and make sure it's silicone so it doesnt melt or crack.
-tie-wraps to secure everything
Instead of spikes he will just get creep if the wastegate isn't ported. And will also just need 1 valve to adjust boost with. The boost is smooth and steady no after transition surprises.
but it's stupid to go non sequential just to control your boost because you dont want to buy a controller or setup the manual valves.
You said you will have a hard time adjusting the valves. Its simple. You want to have the wastegate valve all the way open (turn counterclockwise) and the prespool all the way closed (clockwise). That will be your lowest boost possible and depending on what it gives you then you can adjust from there. If your secondary isnt making a lot of boost then open the prespool or if the primary isnt making enough then close the wastegate valve. Remember to take the pills out of the lines because the valves replace them.
Here's a pic:
Just put the valves where they are in the pic and follow the lines
you will need:
-2 valves Home Depot part # PB9106-CP, it's called a "1/4" Tube to Tube valve W/Insert," available in the plumbing department
-4 sections of 3 inches of 1/4 inch copper tube
-7 feet of 6mm vacuum hose (3 1/2 feet for each valve);
Just get something that fits around the copper pretty snug and make sure it's silicone so it doesnt melt or crack.
-tie-wraps to secure everything
Last edited by Snook; 07-03-03 at 11:27 AM.
07-03-03, 12:06 PM
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Originally posted by Snook
rynberg actually non sequential does make it totally easier to control and lower boost.
Instead of spikes he will just get creep if the wastegate isn't ported. And will also just need 1 valve to adjust boost with. The boost is smooth and steady no after transition surprises.
but it's stupid to go non sequential just to control your boost because you dont want to buy a controller or setup the manual valves.
You said you will have a hard time adjusting the valves. Its simple. You want to have the wastegate valve all the way open (turn counterclockwise) and the prespool all the way closed (clockwise). That will be your lowest boost possible and depending on what it gives you then you can adjust from there. If your secondary isnt making a lot of boost then open the prespool or if the primary isnt making enough then close the wastegate valve. Remember to take the pills out of the lines because the valves replace them.
rynberg actually non sequential does make it totally easier to control and lower boost.
Instead of spikes he will just get creep if the wastegate isn't ported. And will also just need 1 valve to adjust boost with. The boost is smooth and steady no after transition surprises.
but it's stupid to go non sequential just to control your boost because you dont want to buy a controller or setup the manual valves.
You said you will have a hard time adjusting the valves. Its simple. You want to have the wastegate valve all the way open (turn counterclockwise) and the prespool all the way closed (clockwise). That will be your lowest boost possible and depending on what it gives you then you can adjust from there. If your secondary isnt making a lot of boost then open the prespool or if the primary isnt making enough then close the wastegate valve. Remember to take the pills out of the lines because the valves replace them.
the only reason I want to go non-seq is because i want to get an idea how a single turbo will feel since I'm going single anyways.
and the hose that you can't see, where it goes?
Last edited by MR_Rick; 07-03-03 at 12:12 PM.
07-03-03, 06:19 PM
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I went and got the valves. I'm going to install them in the morning. That's all I need to do just tee this valves to the wastegate actuator and the prespool?
07-03-03, 06:48 PM
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You will need an electronic boost controller to safely run a single turbo, so why not just buy one now. They work very well and aren't as weather-dependant as manual valves. I'm starting to feel like a broken record here....
07-03-03, 08:17 PM
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Originally posted by rynberg
You will need an electronic boost controller to safely run a single turbo, so why not just buy one now. They work very well and aren't as weather-dependant as manual valves. I'm starting to feel like a broken record here....
You will need an electronic boost controller to safely run a single turbo, so why not just buy one now. They work very well and aren't as weather-dependant as manual valves. I'm starting to feel like a broken record here....
07-03-03, 08:51 PM
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I'm thinking on doing this:https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=perfect+10810
Will this be a better solution? I'm going to use the same valve that I got from the hardwhare store.
Will this be a better solution? I'm going to use the same valve that I got from the hardwhare store.
07-03-03, 08:58 PM
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I'm thinking on doing this:https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=perfect+10810
Will this be a better solution? I'm going to use the same valve that I got from the hardwhare store.
Will this be a better solution? I'm going to use the same valve that I got from the hardwhare store.
07-04-03, 01:05 AM
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Actually, if you just want the car safe to drive, pull the restrictor pill out of the vacuum line between the turbo nipple and the wastegate actuator. This should keep your boost to safe levels (should reduce it to close to 7 psi) -- and it's free and won't require any adjusting of valves.
Sorry I gave you a hard time, didn't realize you were in the middle of a move. I hate moving....
Sorry I gave you a hard time, didn't realize you were in the middle of a move. I hate moving....