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high idle.Not a noob question

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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 12:25 PM
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high idle.Not a noob question

Hey guys. I switched throttle bodies and now have an idle of 1380. The tps is adjusted properly. Even w/ the throttle cable off it is 1380. No vacuum leaks at all. Non sequential so I sprayed brake cleaner everywhere. No accel. in rpm from the test. The adjustment screw is all the way loose (not touching anymore). Large flat head adjustment screw (on bottom) all the way tight. The more loose I make the higher the rpms get. I have the warm up (wax rod) eliminated. Any help would be appreciated Garret.

Last edited by G's 3rd Gen; Feb 19, 2006 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Check the ISC valve. Did you remove the spring from the adjustment screw on the wax rod?

Last edited by quicksilver_rx7; Feb 19, 2006 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by quicksilver_rx7
Check the ISC valve. Did you remove the spring from the adjustment screw on the wax rod?
I removed the whole unit and the spring below it, Yes. How would that affect it? My ISC could be it. The connector is old and loose. Although it was like this before and when I hold it frimly it makes no difference. I am beggining to think it is a vac. leak now. I guess GUNK carb medic does not work for this. I took off a UIM vac. line and sprayed it in the nipple. Did not rise the RPM. I need to get a can of something that works for vac. leak detection. ThanksGarret
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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If you've removed the whole unit including the adjustment screw for the wax rod, you should be fine. You do need to look at the angle of the butterflies in the TB when it is fully closed. They could be open just enough to raise the idle.

As for the leak test:
You need Carb and Choke cleaner.


Last edited by quicksilver_rx7; Feb 19, 2006 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by quicksilver_rx7
If you've removed the whole unit including the adjustment screw for the wax rod, you should be fine. You do need to look at the angle of the butterflies in the TB when it is fully closed. They could be open just enough to raise the idle.

As for the leak test:
You need Carb and Choke cleaner.

I checked the angle of the butterflies and it was the same as my old one before the install. I have the carb/choke cleaner made by GUNK. It does not affect the hidle even when I spray into a vac. nipple. Wonder why?
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 03:16 PM
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When you replaced the TB, did you replace the cork gasket with the updated metal one, or was that already done? If not, replace it. That's another potential air leak
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 05:52 PM
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I had a similar problem when I re-did my coils... there is a charcoal canister below the UIM, and it has several (2) tubes ging to and from it, make sure you haven't pinched it, even slightly, because that will cause the idle to rise.... also make sure that the tubing to and from that sucker are thick walled, when I had my issue, it was due to me swapping it outm, and due to the vaccum it sucked itself shut... = High Idle 3-4K rpm
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by quicksilver_rx7
When you replaced the TB, did you replace the cork gasket with the updated metal one, or was that already done? If not, replace it. That's another potential air leak
The gaskets are metal (UIM and TB). They are fine. I sprayed carb cleaner everywhere. No fluctuatios. As for the charcoal canister. IT has been removed. Thanks for replies. Still hunting. Again the car drives great just wont go below 1400 or so. Garret.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Thats one of the reasons my throttle body it still not polished even though I have a spare on the side. Well, my idle got screwed(2k rpm) even after I mated my original tb to a polished uim. I was thinking vaccum leak all the way, but it turned out to be the isc. The rod was stuck with a slightly opened butterfly plates.
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