allenhah

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys...I've been doing some thinking about ceramic coating the downpipe and other alternatives to keep underhood temps down, and I was wondering if anybody had ever tried to simply paint the exhaust pipes with high temp paint. From my prior experience with my NA FC (obviously not as hot), I had a very noticable difference in underhood temps when I simply painted the heat shield surrounding the stock exhaust manifold. Has anybody had any experience with this on a FD?

RonKMiller

You need to take a look at the temperatures that off the shelf "high temp paint" is designed for. At dp temps it will cook off in a heartbeat. There might be some out there than can handle high heat, but so what?

This is just a cosmetic treatment - there is no way it will reduce temperatures on anything. Get it coated or wrap it.

Think "R" value.

JONSKI

Go to an industrial truck and marine store and get yourself some asbestos wrap and a few circle clamps. It'll cost you about $25, but the heat control is can't be matched.

allenhah

iTrader: (4)

I actually had exhaust wrap installed a couple months ago, but it actually came loose and is now nowhere to be found. I suppose I could just go through all that again...

SanJoRX7

Dude, go Jet-Hot. Supposed to be excellent heat deflection and is permanently coated onto your part.

epion2985

I have heard form a few people that wraping the pipes on rotaries is not such a bright idea. Yes it will prevent heat form going in to your engine bay, yes it will make exast hotter which will spool the turbo a bit faster because with heat voluem expands. BUT, rotaries run already SO hot that 1. the power gain wont be really worth it, neither will the the bay tems, WHY? because at those tems the blades in the exaust housing will get so hot the tip will slowly dull and weather.

now that comming from experienced fd/fc mechanics. I dont know if anyone here tryed it and kept it for a while but I would like to hear what experience have you guys had?

RonKMiller

If installed properly with the thin stainless steel band clamps (I forgot the brand name) it will NEVER come off. You need to constantly pull tension on it as it is wrapped and then fold the cut/frayed ends under at the final wrap secured with the ss band clamp. Pull the end of the band clamps HARD with some vice grips to cinch it.

Jonski is right, nothing can even come close to it for R value and VALUE, period. Get the two inch wide version and don't wrap the head. Overlap it by 1/2 inch as you go. Figure 4 feet of wrap for every 1 linear foot of dp. Buy an extra 10% for insurance.

One caveat, don't use the wrap on a plain steel dp in a humid climate - go for the jet hot coat instead.

Cheap materials and and easy job. Huge returns in heat control, minor return in hp gain due to improved scavenging. Looks like the freakin' Mummy, but who cares since all anyone ever sees are my tail lights, not my underbody.

Hot rodding 101.

allenhah

iTrader: (4)

While we're on that topic...anybody try using a turbo blanket or the like to keep underhood temps down?

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/

RonKMiller

I disagree 100%. I am not an "experienced fd/fc mechanic" - I've only rebuilt half a dozen so far, but I have rebuilt a couple of hundred airplane boingers, 2 strokes, turbines and other assorted oddities.

I propose it allows the turbos to run cooler.

ANYTHING you can do to expedite heat transfer out of the engine room of an FD3S is - as Martha Stewart would say - a good thing!

Heat kills.

allenhah

iTrader: (4)

Anybody have any idea what kind of temperatures the dp or the turbos generate on the surface?

epion2985

well it will get the heat out but remember it will have to go through the exaust housing. Have you ran a wraped piping for a while on a wankle and then opened up the turbo and looked at the exaust blades?

Zoomspeed

You can get high temp paint that goes up to about 1200 F.

jimlab

Have you? I seriously doubt the Inconel turbines would be affected in the slightest by wrapping a downpipe. After all, they live just upstream of the furnace known as the pre-cat in stock configuration.

EpitrochoidMan

As if rotaries aren't hard enough on exhaust systems, wrapping the pipes just cooks them. For track use I'd say go ahead and wrap 'em but for a regularly driven car, you'll be looking for a new exhaust before to long.

epion2985

I am an idiot, I had a different conversation on another forum about wraping the exaust manifold and somehow all this time I though thats what we are taling about here. I apologise. wraping the downpipe wont destroy the turbo but it will destroy the muffler.



I was just about to meantion that. I have seen a few burned out mufflers on rotaries. And not like burned out after a yars use but under 5k miles.


shielding is a great idea as long as you dont put the heat back in to the car, like muffler or turbo, etc. What sounds tempting is to wrap the pownpipe in a way so you leave a few cm's of space between the pipe and the wraping. So the pipe is in another "pipe" and then you pipe a vent to the pipe around the downpipe and vent it. Tricky but I have heard it was done on another forum. Its to bad they didnt have pictures but it sounds nice.

RonKMiller

Jeez Jim, as usual, you are a source of information that is so FAR beyond the dim-witted cacaphony that is usually heard on this forum...

For all of you experts that don't know what Inconel is, its the same alloy that is used in rocket motors.

It can handle extreme temperatures forever. Thousands of degrees F beyond temps found in any internal combustion engine. This talk about "dulling" the turbine blades is assinine.

I'm not trying to pick on any of you guys individually, but please do a little research before coming up with wild - and unscientific - hypothesis that have nothing to do with reality.

Guys, do everything you can do - from coolant to fuel to oil to airflow to exhaust mods to get the heat OUT if you want to be driving your FD3S years from now.

This publlic service message has been brought to you by an FD3S owner celebrating 10.6 years on the original engine, turbos, etc.

It still hauls ***.