Help with this whore of a strut stud nut
#1
twinturboteddy ws my idol
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Help with this ***** of a strut stud nut
First, I put this in this section because it isn't a "what about, how about these, what do they look like, etc." on suspension.
To the problem; I have one of GoodfellaFD3S's nicely redone R1 strut bars. I'd like to put it on! However, the nut on the driver side strut stud is JACKED ON! A friend and I put the Tokico's in ourselves Nov '03 but did not use air tools or slam it on tight. It's the nut that needs to come off for the fenderside attachment of the strut bar link.
Needless to say I have tried EVERYTHING I have. First was the normal socket (14mm), then put on an extension, tried a small breaker bar, tried channel locks, tried vice grips. I've used PB Blaster on it, tried wrapping the nut in cloth, even plastic bubble wrap. EVERYTHING. This ***** will not budge. I've tried every combination of tool I have had, PB Blaster, and anything to make the surface between the nut and tool less possible to slip. And now the nut is a mangle mess as you could guess. Right now, I just want to get it off and replace it, obviously. It'll need to be done someday anyhow.
The channel locks do the best because of the extremely limited grab location there, but they don't even budge it, even with all my strength it strips.
To the problem; I have one of GoodfellaFD3S's nicely redone R1 strut bars. I'd like to put it on! However, the nut on the driver side strut stud is JACKED ON! A friend and I put the Tokico's in ourselves Nov '03 but did not use air tools or slam it on tight. It's the nut that needs to come off for the fenderside attachment of the strut bar link.
Needless to say I have tried EVERYTHING I have. First was the normal socket (14mm), then put on an extension, tried a small breaker bar, tried channel locks, tried vice grips. I've used PB Blaster on it, tried wrapping the nut in cloth, even plastic bubble wrap. EVERYTHING. This ***** will not budge. I've tried every combination of tool I have had, PB Blaster, and anything to make the surface between the nut and tool less possible to slip. And now the nut is a mangle mess as you could guess. Right now, I just want to get it off and replace it, obviously. It'll need to be done someday anyhow.
The channel locks do the best because of the extremely limited grab location there, but they don't even budge it, even with all my strength it strips.
Last edited by AMRAAM4; 08-14-06 at 12:55 PM.
#2
development
damn...I had a similar thing happen to the driver's side, mangled nut and everything.
I had to use a 14mm socket (hammered on at this point) with a 1/2" drive wrench with an extension/breaker bar...impact gun will most likely work as well, if you can find access to air.
I had to use a 14mm socket (hammered on at this point) with a 1/2" drive wrench with an extension/breaker bar...impact gun will most likely work as well, if you can find access to air.
#3
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Originally Posted by dubulup
damn...I had a similar thing happen to the driver's side, mangled nut and everything.
I had to use a 14mm socket (hammered on at this point) with a 1/2" drive wrench with an extension/breaker bar...impact gun will most likely work as well, if you can find access to air.
I had to use a 14mm socket (hammered on at this point) with a 1/2" drive wrench with an extension/breaker bar...impact gun will most likely work as well, if you can find access to air.
What if I try to hammer on a 13mm. I'd probably have to sacrifice the 13mm though if it does mangle over it and get the nut off. No way it'll come out
#5
go to the store and get a stripped nut/wheel lock removal socket. it has reverse (left handed) cut splines in it that when you hammer it over the nut will cut into it. when you turn it to remove the nut the splines drive deeper/tighter over the nut. a small torch alwasys helps prob fasteners
#6
development
maybe find a standard size just smaller...sacrifice that! haha!! J/k, but it might be the size that will fit better, instead of a 13mm.
if you can't grab it at all...you might have to break out the dremel and small cutting wheel?!?! slowly cut (starting at the top) then try to pry apart...
good luck!
if you can't grab it at all...you might have to break out the dremel and small cutting wheel?!?! slowly cut (starting at the top) then try to pry apart...
good luck!
#7
twinturboteddy ws my idol
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Thanks mad_7
Karack, this **** will stay there before I go cutting stuff, welding, and ripping out struts again LOL I'll buy a new Tokico before doing all that!
Thanks for the help dubulup.
Karack, this **** will stay there before I go cutting stuff, welding, and ripping out struts again LOL I'll buy a new Tokico before doing all that!
Thanks for the help dubulup.
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#9
twinturboteddy ws my idol
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welp, tried heat, tried grinding a bit untill I realized it will just sacrifice the strut stud. What a ******* disaster. This is exaclty why I buy brand new cars for dailys. I hate ******* around with this ****. You can never accomplish one thing without something turning into a pain in the ***.
So, **** it, it isn't going anywhere considering it is locked on there and I am not screwing around taking out the strut and replacing it, or welding in a new stud to the strut I have. If I had a house with a garage, sure, but not in front of my new townhouse.
Guess I need to find a nice mounting place in my house on the wall for this shiny strut bar
So, **** it, it isn't going anywhere considering it is locked on there and I am not screwing around taking out the strut and replacing it, or welding in a new stud to the strut I have. If I had a house with a garage, sure, but not in front of my new townhouse.
Guess I need to find a nice mounting place in my house on the wall for this shiny strut bar
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Originally Posted by mad_7tist
go to the store and get a stripped nut/wheel lock removal socket. it has reverse (left handed) cut splines in it that when you hammer it over the nut will cut into it. when you turn it to remove the nut the splines drive deeper/tighter over the nut. a small torch alwasys helps prob fasteners
Sears actually sells those Strip Nut Removal. It comes in a set ($60 bucks), and will tear away any Strip nut. At least you are working on top of the car, whereas in our case it was the stock twins, and one of the 14mm nut was stripped to hell. The stripped nut removal kit was a life savior...
#13
twinturboteddy ws my idol
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So, anyone want to see a picture of this debacle I made?
I understand part of it is my fault, but seriously, this is the toughest nut/bolt combo I have ever come across in my life LOL Some of these suggestions are helpful, unfortunately the nut is/was too far gone before I asked this
I understand part of it is my fault, but seriously, this is the toughest nut/bolt combo I have ever come across in my life LOL Some of these suggestions are helpful, unfortunately the nut is/was too far gone before I asked this
#14
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I would take a punch, and punch a hole exactly in the side of the nut. Then drill a hole that is the width of the nut. Once you have drilled away enough, you should be able to break it, and remove it. It won't hurt the stud if you drill a tiny bit into it, just don't go very far.
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Look no further!
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Combine this with a breaker bar and you're good to go. Trust me, this thing saved me on many occasions! Especially with Broken Studs on DP Bolts.
If you don't have a strong breaker Bar you can also use a large Cresit(Spelling?) Wrench instead. D
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
Combine this with a breaker bar and you're good to go. Trust me, this thing saved me on many occasions! Especially with Broken Studs on DP Bolts.
If you don't have a strong breaker Bar you can also use a large Cresit(Spelling?) Wrench instead. D
Last edited by tdazmansFD; 08-14-06 at 06:19 PM.
#17
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Originally Posted by adam c
I would take a punch, and punch a hole exactly in the side of the nut. Then drill a hole that is the width of the nut. Once you have drilled away enough, you should be able to break it, and remove it. It won't hurt the stud if you drill a tiny bit into it, just don't go very far.
This is the answer - GOAL, to weaken the hold that the nut has on the stud. Then vise grips and it will come off. If it were here at my garage - 5 minutes tops and it would be off there.
tom
#18
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LOL ... so here is the disasterous goods. As you can see I even tried to channel lock/vice grip the base round flange of the nut..to no avail.
Bolt 1 pic shows the fenderside of the bolt. Bolt 2 pic shows if you are standing in front of the car looking toward fender.
Bolt 1
Bolt 2
Bolt 1 pic shows the fenderside of the bolt. Bolt 2 pic shows if you are standing in front of the car looking toward fender.
Bolt 1
Bolt 2
Last edited by AMRAAM4; 08-14-06 at 08:09 PM.
#21
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Originally Posted by Buzzardsluck
HOLY ****!!!! What is that nut made of? lol
So, if you need a nut fubar'd, everyone knows where to come! Honestly, even if I can get it to budge, I don't think it will unscrew up the threads!
#24
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Damn... that's one fucked up nut. Since you've started cuttin' it, mind as well cut the damn thing out and save you the headach. Just buy a new strut with new studs and nuts.