+1 for the Sears bolt/nut extractors. I have that same set, and it's helped me countless times.

Is there anything left of the thread above the nut? Could you rethread it? If not, just cut the f*cker.

 

Jesus christ Bob, It's sad to see all that damage caused to your beautiful FD b/c of my strut bar . I hope the nut extractor works for you. I'm sure there is some way to clean up the strut tower too, sand/prime/paint etc.

 

I don't really care about the strut tower scratches, my underhood area isn't bling bling anyhow. I was going to get it painted to match when I did my engine this year, but considering the extra cost to remove everything, and the logistics of getting it painted then, I said **** IT. It looks good outside, almost everything mechanical is new basically, and it'll haul ***. I don't take it to shows anyhow. Someday when I have more money and am bored with nothing else to doon the car, I'll decide to rip the **** out and get it repainted fully. Maybe change the exterior color again

I think the paint started scratching from the PB Blaster though. It softened up the paint in that area. If I get the strut bar on, the end link should cover most of it.

 

Nut splitter FTW.
But there had to be something real fucked up going on there for those to be THAT tight!

 

Can you post a pic of this Nut Splitter? and where to get it cause I want one!
Thanks

 

a nut extractor won't work on it any longer anyhow since the threads are damaged, even if it does break loose it will again start to seize up as the nut catches on the damaged threads. as i said the only real way now is to remove the damaged section completely or weaken it enough that it comes out.

 

you might try welding big nut on bad nut and use impact?

 

Damn Bob, U fucked that bolt up. If you want i would be more then happy to take that strut bar off your hands. =)

-Austin

 

I found a new Tokico for $113 shipped. If Blitzed33 can't get the nut off on tune day and salvage the stud threads, then I guess I'll have to buy a new strut and put it in.

To that, I say....****! The fronts are a *****, putting it through the holes up top and then trying to get the bottom in over the A-arm was bitch. I recall standing on the rotor and pushing it down with all my force while my friend tried to get it seated.

 

There are dozens of them out there, here is one that is angled so it works pretty good.
This is a manual one, there are hydraulic ones that will cut much quicker and easier, but of course they are much more expensive.

 

AMRAAM4,

Do as Karack suggested. Cut a slit into the bolt, then try to spread it apart to pop it off. Then *maybe*, you can repair the threads and keep using the shock.

 

edit

 

oops

 

Turbo sockets. (bolt -outs). that + pb blaster+ get another nut and impact it over top of the other one and try to correct those poor threads too.. or rethread the damn thing. if you really wanna rip it off just take a damn dremel and a little cutting disc and cut the nut till you get thread on both sides.

 

I have the SAME exact problem.

I bought nut splitters but they didnt work, unless im doing it wrong but my nut (lol) looks like the one posted in the 1st page.

Im going with this since this is cheaper.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...ssearch=334102

You guys think this is good enough?

 

Why are you talking about replacing the shock? That stud is on the shock mount, not the shock. If you cut the stud off you only need a new mount. They are only about $60 from Malloy. It's not a super big deal.