Louis M

About a month ago, somehow, I found out that I had only a little oil in my engine for about 40 miles. Anyway, I drove it and it stalled out at a stop light. The car ran alright when I was driving it, but when I was going slow, it would die. I ended up getting it towed to Performance Car Buyers in Chantilly, VA, and the guy told me I needed new spark plugs, wires and a new fuel filter. So I did that, and now the exact same problem occurs. What would happen is when I would be about two minutes into my trip, if I let up on the gas, then the engine will die. I can try to start it again, but after trying to get it to go after about five seconds it starts at 100rpms, then 1000rpms then shakes around 500rpms. If I let it sit for a few minutes and come back, I can start it and drive it, but the second I press in the clutch and the revs drop, the engine dies... PLEASE HELP ME!

Louis M

Oh also, when PCB checked it out, they said the engine was still in good shape though, and the only thing damaged was the primary turbo... however, the turbo was not used when the engine would stall out...

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like an idle problem causing your engine to subsequently flood. Try increasing your idle speed with the idle screw.

I'm more concerned with the low oil: what do you mean by low oil, 1 quart left, 2 qts. left ?

Louis M

1) how would you adjust the idle?
2) i didn't know that the engine burns oil... so it burned low and it was at a quart ... anyway i filled it w/ oil and it was fine...

GsrSol

A really bad turbo can cause a car to stall and have a bad idle, and eventually not run at all.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Does the car have a bad idle and/or die with or without the clutch pressed in (or does it matter)?

Louis M

yes! you got it! what does that mean? he did say the primary turbo was pretty bad

NukeGenius

I've got almost the exact same problem. I get erratic vacuum readings between 5-10" and I also get all kinds of smoke (white most of the time and black when I get on the gas). At first we figured it was a vacuum leak, but we cannot find any hoses disconnected or any with cracks or leaks in them, so I think my engine is gone, but I cannot get a compression test yet because my car will not even start anymore and I cant get it to the dealership.

Louis M

but why if your not using the turbos... it would only stall when it would NOT be using the primary turbo

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Could be the clutch switch:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=91723

At least it's a place to start.

GsrSol

The turbo is always spinning so you use it all the time, it's part of the intake track. Just because it's not spinning fast enough to create psi doesn't mean you're not using it. If the turbo has alot of shaft play or the seals are getting hard it may be hitting the sides of the housing causing it not to spin as freely.

pomanferrari

iTrader: (1)

(1) stand in front of car, look at where the throttle cable attaches to the throttle body, right next to the wire is a round cap (like a pen cap). Look inside it, there is a screw. Turn clockwise for increased idle, counter for decreased. Also, opposite the throttle body is a warmup actuator that is right below where a 5/8 inch coolant hose goes into. Check to see if that is binding. also check the electrical connector that goes into a connector right below it.

alberto_mg

i would really recommend you take your car to a qualified rotary specialist. you are in VA and there are a few good people that might help you out. sounds like that other shop is taking you for a ride. the spark plugs and other stuff they did wouldn't be a direct cause for your problem. check out the regional forums for local guy or else you might wind up chasing your tail trying to figure this **** out.

93 R1

Its probably the dubs you want to put on it...

racer1

What about boost? If it's the turbos some guys mentioned above then it wouldn't have the right boost

Louis M

actually, the guy from performance auto buyers came down and personally took a test drive w/ me and it was perfect... i guess it was just a fluke and the fuel filter fixed it ... the primary turbo is still not working, but at least the car is running now

HEns

hmmmm, i have having the same kinda problem

my car is idling at different rpms all the time, alot of the time at around 1.5 which i know is wrong.

and ive got smoke coming out from under the bonnet........ same problem as louis? or something different

Louis M

nope different... i found everything out today... it all comes down to my primary turbo which is shot.. anyway, if i keep it below 3k the entire time, then my engine is fine, however when i go above that (which the car struggles to) from then on out the car idles funny until i park it for a little bit.. thanks for all your help guys!

jantore

Hey Louis when accelerating with your car, does it have a funny sound to it?

Im having the same symptoms. Oh and do u have a boost gauge?

Does it jump alitle when accelerating?

DaedelGT

Louis, to double check the turbo problem (making a huge restriction in the intake track) remove the pipe coming from the intake elbow to the intercooler and see if above 3000RPM is still a problem.

SNracing

sounds like its time to go single, or bnr stage 3

impactwrench

MY CAR DID THE SAME THING BEFORE THE SEALS WENT. REPLACED IT WITH A PORTED MOTOR AND STILL DID THE SAME THING. PUSH IN THE CLUTCH AND IDLE DROPPED 500 RPM. INSTALLED A NEW MICROTECH COMPUTER AND ADJUSTED IDLE MIXTURE. NO MORE PROBLEM. IDLES SMOOTH AS SILK. THE ONLY PROBLEM IS THAT THE COMPUTER DOESNT KNOW WHEN A DEVICE IS SWITCHED ON SUCH AS THE AC, SO I STILL GET AN RPM DROP THEN