So the engine just shut off on me on 1st gear around 5-6K rpm and never starts again. When the engine was still warm and I was trying to restart it backfired and didn't start.
So I've left it to cool down but again doesn't start and it sounds really strange during cranking. Please see/listen to this vid (picture is dark but it has the sound)
Another strange thing while cranking the stick shift started shaking badly as if the transmission was going to explode. How this can possibly happen? Where to start my troubleshooting? Any tips or advice would be much appreciated.


It is single turbo, FuelTech ECU, downpipe and etc. Always premixed. Battery looks fine. Tank is not empty. TPS sensor works fine. MAP sensor seems works fine too.

 

This sounds like compression down on 1 side rotor
Or its flodded

Have u taken plugs out and crank?
Have a look at plugs can tell you a lot

Disconect the fuel pump and ignition system (dont want any fires )

 

Compression test before you do anything else.

 

Sounds like a blown engine.

 

Yep. Sounds like blown engine.

COULD be something else, but before you go off the deep end troubleshooting, do a compression test. Takes 15 minutes, and that will tell you for sure.

Dale

 

Thanks guys. I'm planning on doing the compression test today. Then will update it here.

 

My fd did something similar in the past. When I would get it started it ran horribly. Turns out it was flooded on one rotor only. I pulled the uim and put a cap of oil in the runners. Fired right up. Good luck.

 

So I've been doing compression test today. First thing to note the spark plugs were dry (except for a tiny amount of fuel on the tip of the rear trailing one).
Ok, so I've grabbed a piston engine tester for a rent and followed the steps in the 3rd gen FAQ.
For the rear rotor I was getting uniform bounces above 60PSI, this might not be the real psi as I might not have tightened the gauge very well also it was an old one, but it didn't seem missing any hits so I guessed the problem would be with the other rotor.
Moving on to the front rotor I noticed the needle wasn't moving a bit. So this means the rotor got stuck? I'm not 100% sure but I don't think I was doing anything wrong. So engine needs an rebuilt, right?

 

If you got one side rotor bouncing and done the same procedure to other side but got nothing
2 of the 3 apex seals have most likely snapped and bedded into rotor
Just a guess

Probly good idea to upload a vid of you doin the Comp test to

 

I'll be taking the car to a rotary specialist to have a look as my knowledge doesn't allow me to go any further at this point. Think this would be the best choice in this situation. Will update here though how things will develop in the future.
Thanks all

 

Hi All,
Just updating this thread.
So I've taken my car to a rotary shop. My engine is almost ready to be installed back into the car. I've got a new rotor and two rotor housings. Here are few pics Daniel (from Garage Life) has sent to me.

Damaged stuff:






New parts:




A new rotor for the front. Reusing the rear one.




New rotor housings. Makes the build more expensive, but couldn't really help the temptation of having new parts



with Banzai oil pan brace installed. The brace had been laying unused in my garage for quite awhile. Also they cleaned/repainted the intake manifold

 

Verry nice you will have to make a vid of it fired up running
Very good work

 

Lookin good!

 

Looks good. Are you going to have the car tuned as well or are you going to keep your old tune?

 

Will have a new tune as well. I'm not super confident with the old tune especially when we figured there were signs of running lean previously.

 

I'm looking forward to seeing the progress. If you make a separate build thread please post the link.

 

Thanks Armen. Think I'll make a separate build thread - should have done long ago though.