Help! Need info on replacing OMP Lines
05-25-08, 03:50 PM
#1
Help! Need info on replacing OMP Lines
Hey Guys,
Forgive me if this info is posted somewhere on the forum--I've spent several hours poking around and haven't found any really definitive answers. Here's the story: I started to have the dreaded fuel smell whenever I ran the car. From the forum I determined that the most likely suspect was the FPD. Looked like a task that I could undertake. After much cursing, I managed to get the solenoid rack off, only to find that the primary fuel rail had to come out as well to access the bolts holding the FPD in place. In the process of wrangling the rail free of the various plumbing and wire harnesses, I heard a snap and the rail came out. As you've guessed, I broke the OMP line going to the rear rotor.
With all the stuff off the top of the engine, it's relatively easy to access that end of the line(s). The question is: what is the procedure to replace the OMP lines with the engine in the car? It looks like the OMP is buried under a bunch of stuff and that it's routed in such a way that to replace it you'd need eyes in your fingertips!
I understand the wisdom of replacing with SS lines, but under the circumstances, think that I'll just use the OEM lines. If the engine was out of the car, it would possibly be a different story.
Any help/tips you can offer are greatly appreciated! I was already feeling like I was in way over my head before breaking this line. Now I'm just feeling incompetent!
Forgive me if this info is posted somewhere on the forum--I've spent several hours poking around and haven't found any really definitive answers. Here's the story: I started to have the dreaded fuel smell whenever I ran the car. From the forum I determined that the most likely suspect was the FPD. Looked like a task that I could undertake. After much cursing, I managed to get the solenoid rack off, only to find that the primary fuel rail had to come out as well to access the bolts holding the FPD in place. In the process of wrangling the rail free of the various plumbing and wire harnesses, I heard a snap and the rail came out. As you've guessed, I broke the OMP line going to the rear rotor.
With all the stuff off the top of the engine, it's relatively easy to access that end of the line(s). The question is: what is the procedure to replace the OMP lines with the engine in the car? It looks like the OMP is buried under a bunch of stuff and that it's routed in such a way that to replace it you'd need eyes in your fingertips!
I understand the wisdom of replacing with SS lines, but under the circumstances, think that I'll just use the OEM lines. If the engine was out of the car, it would possibly be a different story.
Any help/tips you can offer are greatly appreciated! I was already feeling like I was in way over my head before breaking this line. Now I'm just feeling incompetent!
05-25-08, 04:40 PM
#2
I would just re-place them with SS lines right now. It really is not that hard and you will thank yourself later for not having to do the job twice. Loosen and take off the two oil injector by the fuel rails I dont remember the size. make sure not to loose the two copper washers. The OMP lines go around the top of the water pump housing that wrap down and under it there are a few tabs that hold them into place which you can open up fairly easy and pull them out. Down on the OMP there is a 10mm bolt holding each line and a copper washer they both share dont lose that eigther. They are fairly easy to change it mroe taking off a few things around where you need to get to. After your down make sure to make sure everything is tucked back in correctly I forgot to and my OMP wires got pulled into the pulles and wripped them all to crap. lesson learned lol. Anyways good luck.
Chris
Chris
05-25-08, 04:40 PM
#3
If you are already this far - its easy to change the lines - the only PITA is routing the lines along the front of the engine near the pressure tank. When you get new lines you will find they aren't as fragile as you think... the old ones are usually just crispy.
If the fuel rails are already unbolted - you have easy access to the oil injectors.
Oh YEAH - when you are putting the fuel rails back on - don't mix up the mounting bolts. Just sayin.
If the fuel rails are already unbolted - you have easy access to the oil injectors.
Oh YEAH - when you are putting the fuel rails back on - don't mix up the mounting bolts. Just sayin.
05-25-08, 06:16 PM
#4
As mentioned I think now is the time to replace both lines. You'll have to remove the alternator, disconnect the power steering pump (but not the lines) and pressure tank, but they're not difficult, especially compared to what you've already done. This thread doesn't deal with it directly, but might give you an idea of the routing. You can see the lines in the 4th picture down. https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/changing-oil-metering-pump-omp-while-car-my-how-675341/
Stainless is nice and relatively bullet-proof, but ~ $100. Not sure what the cost of OEM lines are but they might be easier to install as they're pre-bent. If you do go with stainless, pay attention to the bends in the OEM and try avoid twisting the lines as that makes them hard to attach at the pump. I also recommend calling Ray @ Malloy and getting new copper washers, at least for the injector ends. You don't want to go back over a few bucks worth of washers.
There is also a thread somewhere on how to make your own lines from teflon tubing for cheap.
Stainless is nice and relatively bullet-proof, but ~ $100. Not sure what the cost of OEM lines are but they might be easier to install as they're pre-bent. If you do go with stainless, pay attention to the bends in the OEM and try avoid twisting the lines as that makes them hard to attach at the pump. I also recommend calling Ray @ Malloy and getting new copper washers, at least for the injector ends. You don't want to go back over a few bucks worth of washers.
There is also a thread somewhere on how to make your own lines from teflon tubing for cheap.
Last edited by Sgtblue; 05-25-08 at 06:21 PM.
05-27-08, 08:40 AM
#6
step 1: go full non sequential
step 2: change OMP lines with ease
I used OEM OMP lines from mazda, they were surprisingly not that expensive. Changing out the lines was super easy because I already had my fuel rail out for diagnosing a fuel leak, and because I've gone full non-sequential.
step 2: change OMP lines with ease
I used OEM OMP lines from mazda, they were surprisingly not that expensive. Changing out the lines was super easy because I already had my fuel rail out for diagnosing a fuel leak, and because I've gone full non-sequential.
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