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HELP: Need Coolant Seal Quick Fix

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 01:53 AM
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Exclamation HELP: Need Coolant Seal Quick Fix

Guys my coolants seals went out and I have heard that there's a quick way of fixing it for a temporary time of period so that the car could get from point A to point B. I have found some British product, but I'm not sure if I should trust it or not. The link for the product is below. Let me know if that would work fine or if there is some other way of doing it. Thanks a bunch beforehand guys....
-Erik

http://motorshop1.co.uk/k_seal.htm
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 01:54 AM
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by the way my car has been sitting around and collecting dust for about a month now, so let me know if it's still possible....
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:41 AM
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At most auto parts stores, you could find a product called K&W or CRC block weld. DO a search on "block weld" and then decied if that's really what you want to do...
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:42 AM
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Hmmm... I've never heard of it, but you could give it a shot. Not like you have anything to lose, other than clogging up an already fubared coolant system.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:44 AM
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that kseal thing seems cool, esp since no one has tried it.. since the crc block weld doesn't seem to hold up anyways .. maybe its a good time to try something new gl
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:46 AM
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if you understand why the coolant seals fail you will understand why the block seal rarely works. you can try it but don't keep your hopes up.

Kevin Landers has a writeup on his site under his tech section.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 03:01 AM
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What about as a preventative measure?
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 03:04 AM
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these motors are built by design to expand and contract, the irons tend to crack and the rotor housings tend to have pitting. block seal will not work on defective rotor housings period and it may hold a blown coolant seal for a short while but rarely for long if at all depending on how bad it is.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 04:25 AM
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Also plan to buy a new heater core and pull to the dash later to replace your plugged one. That is unless you don't care about heat in the winter.

tom
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 07:27 AM
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A point to be concerned about - if your engine has been sitting with coolant in the combustion chambers, it may be quickly rusting into a non-runnable, non-repairable condition. Either get it running, or dry it out/oil it down to prevent further corrosion. Search on coolant seals and see what others did to allay further damage.

Dave
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:00 PM
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wow, thanks for the info guys. has anyone actually ever done something like this to their motors? i just need a quick fix for a while and i'm probably not gonna take my car on the freeway either so i wont be pushing much power....
-erik
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 01:19 PM
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tried? yes, worked? no
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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Arrow

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/some-thoughts-my-engine-turbo-rebuild-191608/
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 03:46 PM
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Your gonna clog up your turbos as well. Just start saving up for a rebuild.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 03:52 PM
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The block seal works fine if you follow the directions. Unfortunately nobody does.

Copper Block Weld fixed my coolant seal leak just fine and it even held while racing the **** out of the car. It didn't clog my radiator, turbos, heater core, hoses or anything else BECAUSE I FOLLOWED THE DIRECTIONS.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DamonB
The block seal works fine if you follow the directions. Unfortunately nobody does.

Copper Block Weld fixed my coolant seal leak just fine and it even held while racing the **** out of the car. It didn't clog my radiator, turbos, heater core, hoses or anything else BECAUSE I FOLLOWED THE DIRECTIONS.
Now Damon, to imply that everyone who didn't have good results didn't follow the directions isn't right. It is possible that you had just better results than some others. After seeing some failed motors torn down, I can see where it would all depend on the actual failure as to whether or not the treatment would or wouldn't work (as already noted in this thread).
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
After seeing some failed motors torn down, I can see where it would all depend on the actual failure as to whether or not the treatment would or wouldn't work (as already noted in this thread).
As for whether or not the block seal can fix the leak, I agree with you. If the irons have eroded much around the seal or the leak is just too big etc there's not much that will fix it short of opening up the motor.

As for block seal clogging up radiators, heater cores, turbos etc that happens for one explicit reason: PEOPLE DON'T FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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Now Mahjik/DamonB is arguing ................ with himself

To the thread starter: If you are only driving short distances, and only doing it for a little while, just leave it as is. Check your coolant level often, and you will be fine until your rebuild ....... which is not far off ........... right????
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by adam c
Now Mahjik/DamonB is arguing ................ with himself
Nah, no argument. I disagree with him but I agree to disagree.
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 04:26 AM
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^^^hahaha!

i'm not going to drive this rx-7 of mine very hard as i am going to strip the whole thing down to the chassis in a couple of months and rebuild everything back up. i'm doing that with my other rx-7 right now, but because my other rx-7 is in the "stripped" stage, i need something to get me around to college and out on the weekends and such. once i have my other rx-7 perfectly in working condition (which i'd like to add i'm doing all the work on, haha), i'm going to sell it, and from the money of it, get a motorcycle again to go around with, and start work on this rx-7 and do the same thing i'm doing to my first rx-7. i know this is just a temporary fix and that it wont last me a long time, but i'm just hoping that it'll last me for the time being.

since a couple of you guys have done this before, if you can, please throw out some pointers and stuff as to where you came into trouble and stuff. when it says on kevin's website to "pull the fuse to turn the motor over and push out the water", which fuse would he be talking about? i tried pulling the main relay and the egi fuses, but when i turned the key, i didn't see any water come out of any where. the writer said that you're supposed to see cups and cups of water coming out. am i doing something wrong there?
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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me and RX7 FROM HEAVEN (erik) are doing this project together.... acually the car is basicaly sitting in front of my houce right now because we have almost gave up...

we follwed the direction and put degreeser and water and then warmed up and then flushed 4 times..... but then it was 2 in the morning.... and it was too loud and we were tired....... so erik just put another degreeser/water mixture... waited alittle and flushed it with water WITHOUT warming it up...... so basically it stayed overnight (8hours) with everything flushed out but not warmed up before it was flushed out

and even when we roll it down a hill at around 15mph it wont turn on with a jumpstart.... we tried it 6 times...... and we charged the battery each time we did it.

it just bogs 3 times with the wheels spining and chokes.

HELP... anyone
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Old Jan 13, 2007 | 09:21 PM
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bump
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 01:37 AM
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bump... HELP

rotary resurection... anything u can tell us?
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Old Jan 14, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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what happened to all of the people who were saying everything on this thread and helping out? please read my previous posts and try to answer my questions cause i'm a bit confused with the directions from rotaryresurrection.com. thanks a bunch beforehand guys, and thanks for the help so far....
-erik
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Old Jan 22, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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guys, please help me in this. i posted some questions in my previous posts and nobody answered them yet, so a little more help will be greatly appreciated....
-erik
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