HELP: Need Coolant Seal Quick Fix
01-22-07, 12:56 AM
#26
gotta pull the plugs out and EGI fuse and crank the motor over, that will dry out the engine of fuel and coolant, that may help get the car started if not then you may need to replace the plugs. if new plugs don't help then your motors are just ingesting too much water to even start the block seal treatment and there is not much you can do at that point.
if you need to pull start the car to get it running then you really need to take a step back and really think to yourself if block weld is going to fix it, my answer would be a "no".
if you need to pull start the car to get it running then you really need to take a step back and really think to yourself if block weld is going to fix it, my answer would be a "no".
01-22-07, 04:37 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by sevensix
that kseal thing seems cool, esp since no one has tried it.. since the crc block weld doesn't seem to hold up anyways .. maybe its a good time to try something new 
gl
glWhat are you basing this information on ? Most that had a coolant seal go bad and did something before warping the rotor housings or end plates have had good luck with it if the directions are followed correctly. I'd say 14 months and boosting normally is a favorable result. It probably would have lasted longer jad I stayed out of the boost.
01-22-07, 04:41 PM
#28
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Originally Posted by badddrx7
Also plan to buy a new heater core and pull to the dash later to replace your plugged one. That is unless you don't care about heat in the winter.
tom
tom
Hmmmmmmmm 4 years since I used the block weld on my car and heater still works fine. I may not use it a lot down here but when I need it it works.
01-22-07, 04:47 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by RX-7 From Heaven
^^^hahaha!
i'm not going to drive this rx-7 of mine very hard as i am going to strip the whole thing down to the chassis in a couple of months and rebuild everything back up. i'm doing that with my other rx-7 right now, but because my other rx-7 is in the "stripped" stage, i need something to get me around to college and out on the weekends and such. once i have my other rx-7 perfectly in working condition (which i'd like to add i'm doing all the work on, haha), i'm going to sell it, and from the money of it, get a motorcycle again to go around with, and start work on this rx-7 and do the same thing i'm doing to my first rx-7. i know this is just a temporary fix and that it wont last me a long time, but i'm just hoping that it'll last me for the time being.
since a couple of you guys have done this before, if you can, please throw out some pointers and stuff as to where you came into trouble and stuff. when it says on kevin's website to "pull the fuse to turn the motor over and push out the water", which fuse would he be talking about? i tried pulling the main relay and the egi fuses, but when i turned the key, i didn't see any water come out of any where. the writer said that you're supposed to see cups and cups of water coming out. am i doing something wrong there?
i'm not going to drive this rx-7 of mine very hard as i am going to strip the whole thing down to the chassis in a couple of months and rebuild everything back up. i'm doing that with my other rx-7 right now, but because my other rx-7 is in the "stripped" stage, i need something to get me around to college and out on the weekends and such. once i have my other rx-7 perfectly in working condition (which i'd like to add i'm doing all the work on, haha), i'm going to sell it, and from the money of it, get a motorcycle again to go around with, and start work on this rx-7 and do the same thing i'm doing to my first rx-7. i know this is just a temporary fix and that it wont last me a long time, but i'm just hoping that it'll last me for the time being.
since a couple of you guys have done this before, if you can, please throw out some pointers and stuff as to where you came into trouble and stuff. when it says on kevin's website to "pull the fuse to turn the motor over and push out the water", which fuse would he be talking about? i tried pulling the main relay and the egi fuses, but when i turned the key, i didn't see any water come out of any where. the writer said that you're supposed to see cups and cups of water coming out. am i doing something wrong there?
The most difficult thing for me and time consumming was getting all the damn soap out of the system prior to using the block seal. I swore if I ever did it again I'd remove the thermostat to speed things up, you'll just have to run it longer to get it to full operating temperature.
01-22-07, 04:54 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by turBRO240
me and RX7 FROM HEAVEN (erik) are doing this project together.... acually the car is basicaly sitting in front of my houce right now because we have almost gave up...
we follwed the direction and put degreeser and water and then warmed up and then flushed 4 times..... but then it was 2 in the morning.... and it was too loud and we were tired....... so erik just put another degreeser/water mixture... waited alittle and flushed it with water WITHOUT warming it up...... so basically it stayed overnight (8hours) with everything flushed out but not warmed up before it was flushed out
and even when we roll it down a hill at around 15mph it wont turn on with a jumpstart.... we tried it 6 times...... and we charged the battery each time we did it.
it just bogs 3 times with the wheels spining and chokes.
HELP... anyone
we follwed the direction and put degreeser and water and then warmed up and then flushed 4 times..... but then it was 2 in the morning.... and it was too loud and we were tired....... so erik just put another degreeser/water mixture... waited alittle and flushed it with water WITHOUT warming it up...... so basically it stayed overnight (8hours) with everything flushed out but not warmed up before it was flushed out
and even when we roll it down a hill at around 15mph it wont turn on with a jumpstart.... we tried it 6 times...... and we charged the battery each time we did it.
it just bogs 3 times with the wheels spining and chokes.
HELP... anyone
Sounds like your pull starting it in 1st. gear Ypu'd have better luck in 2nd or even 3rd gear for pull starting (more engine rev's per wheel revolution). If it got bad enough you'll also need some new plugs to help start it.
01-22-07, 11:11 PM
#31
Rotary Freak
I did this temp. fix and it did buy 9 more months of time driving my car. I ended up doing the block-weld trick 2 more times during that 9 months. Then something else broke on the car. I just sold it.
It makes it really easy to flush the system if you buy the Prestone radiator flush kit that allows you to splice a coolant hose with "T" that you can connect your garden hose to. It's sad but I got quite good at block-welding my car. I do think my koyo got partially clogged because it didn't cool as efficiently after the "fix".
Good luck.
It makes it really easy to flush the system if you buy the Prestone radiator flush kit that allows you to splice a coolant hose with "T" that you can connect your garden hose to. It's sad but I got quite good at block-welding my car. I do think my koyo got partially clogged because it didn't cool as efficiently after the "fix".
Good luck.
01-24-07, 01:19 AM
#32
PARTS GALORE!
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thanks for all the help and support guys. jpandes, where did you get that prestone radiator flush kit thing from? sounds like something that will help speed things up a lot and will help from getting water all over the enginebay and rusting all the parts, haha.....
-erik
-erik
01-24-07, 01:26 AM
#33
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by RX-7 From Heaven
thanks for all the help and support guys. jpandes, where did you get that prestone radiator flush kit thing from? sounds like something that will help speed things up a lot and will help from getting water all over the enginebay and rusting all the parts, haha.....
-erik
-erik
01-24-07, 08:38 AM
#34
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block seals are ****...end of story...i was desparate..tried it...hated it...got a rebuild...now i hope to sell the damn thing. i hope if anyone is thinking about a block weld that they dont expect any heat from the heater core...ITS EVIL it's meant for head gaskets not rubber o-ring seals, especially not ones that see as much contact as the rotors/apex/side seals give them.
01-25-07, 01:28 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by jpandes
I got it for $5 bucks at Kragen Auto Parts...
-erik
01-25-07, 07:51 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by RX-7 From Heaven
thanks a lot man. i'm gonna do the whole thing this weekend hopefully. i'll post on here how the whole thing goes.....
-erik
-erik
Did you ever get it started.....if not you'll never come close to getting the blockweld to work.
01-25-07, 09:20 PM
#37
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you'll think it works..be happy, then realize it didnt work...keep trying it...then do a compression test and get a rebuild
Last edited by Sr20fd3st; 01-25-07 at 09:20 PM. Reason: typo
01-26-07, 02:40 PM
#39
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I thought for a long time that my coolant seals were damaged. The car would smoke heavily upon cold startups and beetween shifts ocasionally. Once the motor was at running temp, the car would idle fine with no visable "white smoke". I ended up trying out the CRC Block weld as the directions stated in an attempt to "bandaid" the obvious. It did'nt work and so I finally pulled the trigger for a rebuild. According to Karack, my engine has a cracked iron causing the burning of coolant.
I hope it was'nt too much work cleaning that crap out of there Karack! But I'm curious to know...did it caused any problems after/during teardown/install?
I hope it was'nt too much work cleaning that crap out of there Karack! But I'm curious to know...did it caused any problems after/during teardown/install?
01-30-07, 12:55 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by Karack
i did mention it plugs up catalytic converters i hope? yep, especially with how much water will come out of a rotary during the process, just something else for anyone thinking about doing it to think about as well.
-erik
01-30-07, 01:27 PM
#41
it depends on the block weld, some of that stuff is nasty! the stuff in your motor actually turned into gel before it hardened since it was mixed with coolant it had to be in contact with air for a while before it would harden but even so the block, radiator and lines all needed to be flushed thoroughly and it did take a few extra hours of cleaning to get all of the crystalized portions out.
