rjuge

Hi guys, new to the forum....

Have $4,000 to spend on my 93 touring (red 5 spd) in mods......

I want to do everything I can for my RX-7........ Any suggestions? and where to buy stuff

PS-what do you guys think about this setup:
(only a list, but hey what do you think)
Wings West Spoiler $385 / $335
Gauge Pod, Autometer boost, water temp $150
HKS Dual Filter $340
HKS downpipe $212.50
Apexi SAFC $325
Apexi AVC-r $489
Greddy BOV Kit $249.40
Greddy I/C Piping $289.25
Cusco Front Strut Tower Brace $155.25
Holley HiFlo Fuel Pump $193.60
Apexi Performance meter $225
ACT Street/Comp clutch Kit $472.60
NGK PLat Plugs $11x4
Wires $85



***I've heard the safc doesn't work well with our cars. any comments??

Anyone know where to find larger side feed injectors?

Brad

Welcome to the forum!

The list you have isn't too bad. You should probably do a search on this one, you'll come up with lots and lots of different opinions. There are so many different ways to go about this, but I think you'll find that the general consensus is to make the car reliable first. Things like boost gauge, silicone hoses, downpipe, and AST fix are pretty essential. But of course you want to make your car fast. With $4000 you will have NO problem laying down over 325-350 rwhp, but other areas of the car might be sacrificed, i.e. suspension, tires, etc. Full exhaust, ECU, intake, and possibly FMIC would easily run you about $3500-4000 for parts alone. Double that if you cant do the work yourself.

Personally I would ditch those piggybacks (S-AFC, AVC-R) and go with a good standalone unit like Haltech, PFC, or even the new AEM unit. They cost more initially but the benefit of having one far outweighs the cost.

Silex

Welcome man. We are one big family here so feel free ato ask as many questions as you can. GotBoost7 has started explaining it well and you definetely should get the reliability mods done first before you do anything else.

rjuge

this is actually my second 3rd gen rx7. This is the first I''m moddinghowever. i already did the c.a.s. tank upgrade with pettit and the suspension and hoses.

Brad

Alrighty then! If it we're my money, this is what I would buy...

Haltech E6K - $1000
M2 SS downpipe - $300
Mindtrain Mid - $150
ATR SS Catback - $500
Koyo Aluminum Rad - $400
Defi Boost Gauge - $200
Defi EGT Gauge - $200
1600cc Secondaries - $300
Custom Secondary rail - $200
Bosch Pump - $250
Custom FMIC - $500

This puts you at about $4000, but you would still need to scrape up about $250-300 for some custom polished piping. Both for your FMIC and also some intake pipes, then throw a couple K&N's on there.

Now you'll have to save up about $750 for some Potenza S03's cause whatever tires you have on now wont last long with these mods!!

And spend the money to get it tuned right...or else you'll be saving up for a new motor!

WEEEEEEWEWEWEWEEE!

EDIT: ****....I forgot a clutch! Okay, save up another grand for a flywheel and clutch...

EDIT #2: ****....add $190 for a Tial BOV too

EDIT #3: ****....now you want more power. Add another $2000 for a T66 p-trim with a 1.06 A/R and a SS manifold.

EDIT #4: **** now your single turbo add $490 for a Tial 46mm high pressure wastegate and $300 for a custom SS downpipe

EDIT #5: Now you see how bad having an FD is? IT NEVER STOPS. It sucks more money out of you than any girl possibly could!

martini

I agree about going with the stand alone.

i would also suggest you get something other than the HKS intake. Apex'i makes a solid unit.

the BOV is pretty unnecessary, unless you're really dead set on a different sound.

I assume your car doesn't have a spoiler on it right now, and you'd like one. Well, wings west stuff is a fairly poor quality (and they look dumb, imo). So perhaps you could find an R1 spoiler on ebay/thepartstrader/classifieds forum instead, or maybe even a nice racing beat wing for a similar price.

if you change out your clutch, you may want to do some research into lightweight flywheels. i think it's a solid mod, but some people disagree.

CPA

If you do not know when the thermostat was changed, it is cheap, but I would also change that and the same goes for the fuel filter. Both of these can cause major problems. Change the fluids.

rynberg

Don't do your mods all at once. Has the car been THOROUGHLY checked out? Everything work properly? All fluids and filters replaced? How's your suspension bushings?

Ditch the SAFC, HKS intake, BOV, and MS downpipe

I would think a very good first round of mods would be:

SS catback
SS downpipe
cold air intake (M2, RX7 fashion, SR Motorsports)
Power FC

then stock mount intercooler (M2, others)

As far as performance mods, that should keep you happy for a while, keep the rest of the cash for repairs and maintenance.

(Please no flames considering I only have a SS downpipe at this point )

mrb63083

iTrader: (4)

hey rjuge, how many miles are on the engine?? if there are a lot, and you want the car to last, another option is getting the engine rebuilt and ported...it will not be much faster but will be more reliable hehe, but if you want speed...do what the other guys said hehe

rjuge

new engine, less than 50k on it....

jspecracer7

If I had $4000, the first thing I would buy would be the Apex'i Power FC. Be sure to pick up the Commander and the Datalogit equipment with it. Definitely worth the $600+ dollars that I spent(PFC and Commander).

Also a fuel pump, but you don't need to buy an FD kit. Any 255 lph fuel pump will be sufficient(trust me, I helped install a mustang 255 lph bosch into an FD, and then the same mustang kit into a silvia)

GReddy BOV is a good BOV, so you're on the right track with that.

The stock NGK's are fine. Just run all 9's(the Trailing Plug)

ACT drag clutch will work(just ask FDOkinawa , he's using it as a daily driver with over 420 hp at the wheels)

From what I've heard, the Autometer gauges are junk. I prefer to have a gauge that can tell me peak and also show me a warning alert(Like the GReddy's or the Defi's)
You want at a minimum the turbo, egt, and water temp.

You do however want a good aftermarket intercooler, preferrably a front mount. I have a stock mount IC and when doing spirited driving, my air temps get to around 79 degrees celsius according to my Power FC. FD Okinawa's air temp gets to 40 degrees celsius after spirited driving, so my air's hotter by 29 degrees celsius(that's a BIG difference). Either way, the stock IC, with plastic end-tanks is JUNK.


DON'T GET THE HKS INTAKES!!! I have them and they are JUNK.

I've seen the wings west spoiler, and it's FUGLY!!!

Good list though....and Welcome to the Forum!

rjuge

hey guys, how does the power fc work? I won't need an apexi boost controller anymore or a fuel controller? I don't really want to dump the stock ecu. I want it to be a daily driver, and i've heard that those things make them racecars not to be driven daily?? Comments?

ttpowerd

no no no....you will be fine with the pfc...you just have to get it tuned correctly. Definately go with the apexi intake, a very nice unit indeed