pedalpusher

iTrader: (1)

First, let me say that I think there is some strange form of supernatural power that causes a problem in my car once I read about it on the forum. Does anyone else experience this phenomenon?

Now, one of my current problems seems to encompass two problems being discussed on the forums. My car began to run about 10 degrees C hotter than it had been. I noticed that this happened while sitting in traffic, but at speed on the highway the heat seemed fine. It turns out that my fans weren't turning on when they were supposed to. I've been running with my A/C on and the engine temp has been back to normal. The next thing that happened is that an unsteady idle problem I'd been having started getting much worse. I found that if I turned the A/C off, the idle would steady! So, I either have an erratic idle, or a hot car. I'm hoping it all stems from the same (easy to fix) problem. I have a few guesses, but I'd like to hear if anyone else has any thoughts on this.

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pedalpusher

skunks

the first problem is totally normal; In fact i cant believe you dont force your fans to come on as soon as you turn on your car.

as for the second problem, what mods do you have on your car?

spurvo

Sorry to not respond to your actual problem ('cause I know SQUAT!!) but I experience the EXACT same thing. I read it... it happens. Their up to something.. I know it!

Vote LaRouche!!

hee

pedalpusher

iTrader: (1)

The problem is not normal. My car is suddenly running quite a bit hotter, which seems to be because of the fans not coming on when they're supposed to. The rigged solution is to turn on the A/C so the fans are on at all times. Unfortunately, when the A/C is on, my idle fluctuates between 1100 RPMs and 550 RPMS.

Intake, downpipe, catback and a Power FC. None of these are causing the problem. It's a problem that came on suddenly. Combined with the fact that the idle is steady with no eletrical load, I think it's probably electrical in nature. After reading a number of the threads about this on the forum, I went and checked my MAP sensor, unplugged my o2 sensor and cleared the ECU memory. Still happens. A vacuum leak seems unlikely since electrical load affects it. Maybe it's a bad MAP sensor? I'll check that today. If anyone else has any thoughts, please chime in.

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pedalpusher

pedalpusher

iTrader: (1)

The MAP sensor voltage checks out. That's not it.

skunks

just ground the fan relays with a manual switch and it should turn on your fans and not affect your idle.

For the second problem, check that your belts aren't slipping and that your A/C system and coolant system is full.

BlackR1

try burping the coolant system too if you're getting some hot spots...

93's tend to have a more lumpy idle when under electrical load. Might want to invest in some extra grounding wires which usually will alleviate the problem.

pedalpusher

iTrader: (1)

I think I have a bad Air Intake Thermosensor (part #N3A1-18-845). At least that's my current working theory. I spent some time last night diagnosing the problem using the FC Commander's switches and sensors screen.

I let the car warm up and took down the voltages with the A/C on and off. The car seemed to run fine and the voltages seemed to check out. The AIRT (Air Intake Thermosensor) started at 1.94v then rose as the engine warmed, then fluctuated between 2.94v and 3.50v when the car reached 81 degrees C. The fluctuation was a little suspicious, but the car was running fine. Then things got interesting. I turned the engine off, then restarted it immediately. The car started its idle fluctuation trick immediately. The PIM voltage bounced between 1.3v and 2.0v (from a steady 1.45v before). The Commander was showing the ECU cycling through cells (2,4) to (3,7) as the idle bounced. The really weird thing was that the AIRT sensor was down to 1.6v, which didn't seem correct at all judging from the previous readings.

So, I'm going to replace the intake sensor, and see if it fixes things. I'm thinking about moving it to the intake elbow for a couple of reasons; it's easier to get to and the sensor won't suffer potential heat soak from the UIM. My only concern is that the actual air temperature will be significantly cooler at that position, and the ECU won't account for that in the fuel mixture. Am I just being paranoid? Also, I don't know the best way to insert the sensor into the plastic elbow. Is the plastic thick enough and strong enough to tap? Are there threaded inserts that will work? Thanks for any help.

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pedalpusher

pedalpusher

iTrader: (1)

I found the idle problem, and it wasn't the AIRT. It turns out that the vacuum host that has the check valve and comes from the Switching Solenoid had a kink in it. Once I straightened out the hose, the idle smoothed out, and the engine seemed to run much better. No I need to check out the fan relays to see why the fans don't come on when they're supposed to.

Then I get to figure out where the oil leak at the back of the engine is coming from.

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pedalpusher

X-factorRX-7

the first thing to do is go to corksport. com on line and order some evans npg watterless coolant and have some shop change it out because you can not mix this coolant with any thing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! no watter or watter based coolant so you have to drain the whole system of all old coolant. the guys at corksport are verry helpfull they can help out a lot. about the idle problem with a down pipe and cat back you will have a funny idle because the a/c pump takes 10-15 hp to run and with no back pressure from the pre cat it will do that. other wise it is a vacume leak. have u replaced the vacum lines with silicone yet if not do it!! it helps a lot but be carefull the waste gate and turbo pre controll vacum lines have pills in the lines down by the actuators and with out theese lines u will not make any boost find a good shop to do it or be carefull!!!