I need a bit of input to help choose a proper radiator/IC setup for my FD.

What the car will be used for:

Daily driving duties and light track duty. I track it up here in BC and plan to do some days down in Portland/Seattle and possibly California.

Our average summer temps are around 25*C however sometimes can get to the mid 30*. I wouldn't be tracking in that heat unless I was very comfortable with my cooling setup.



Now is the question. SMIC, V-mount or FMIC?

For SMIC's I'm considering the M2 Large or GReddy (along with a fluidyne)
For V-mount the RX7store unit (don't really want to relocate my battery, but at the great price for the kit I will make an acception.)
For FMIC if I can find one, I would only go with the RX7 Fashion one? I think it's called that. Goodfella has it (also would run a fluidyne)

I am keeping my A/C which also poses a problem for the condenser. If I went FMIC or SMIC I would drop the bottom of the rad a bit for some extra angle. If I went V-mount I would have to figure out a way to keep the condenser.

Please don't tell me to ditch the A/C. This is not a poll on if I should keep it. It's staying, end of story and no one can make me change my mind.

I would also appreciate not jumping to the "V-mount is best" comment. I know it's the best cooling setup, but I would like to know the best way I should set my car up for my needs in my climate. If I didn't want A/C I would go V-mount without a question.

Now HELP ME!

 

My recommendation would be a ASP/M2 Medium SMIC with a PWR or Fluidyne Radiator.

 

How does cooling for a larger SMIC compare to a V-mount? BTW I'm single turbo as well if that makes a difference. I will also be running 400-500cc of water pre-turbo.

 

Rich (goodfella) has a blitz fmic.

 

i made a stock mount using a 17"x12"x3.5" IC. (core dimensions)

works great except you need to put heat shielding on the end tanks so the hot air from the radiator doesnt heat soak it in stop & go traffic.

 

For the most part, the main difference is the potential for some heatsoak in the SMIC. A proper SMIC can provide just as much cooling as just about any other setup. Some numbers Rich did a few years ago:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/real-world-comparo-ait-water-temps-smic-vs-fmic-373078/

 

right... n/m

 

Just so people don't read to much into this, I think the different bumpers also played a part in the differences. I think what that thread proved is that acceptable temperatures can be achieved by using an SMIC or FMIC more than one being better than the other.

 

A V-Mount's spendy, but it also seems to be the best of both worlds if done correctly.

 

Ideally this is the way I would like to go since the RX7store v-mount is priced very close to just the M2. However, can anyone chime in here that has made their v-mount work with the A/C?

 

^^ If you review Rx7store's pics you can see some custom A/C lines that were made. After speaking with Jason about his setup, it became clear that custom lines would need to be made as well as mounting the condenser with the radiator. Not the end of the world, but def more work & a little fabrication.

I too have been having this very delima. My situation is practically identical to yours, & I want to keep my A/C.

I have been considering a ETS FMIC with a Koyo N-flow radiator. As mentioned, your bumper is going to play a big role in your selection, as well as oil cooling. I am a firm believer that the stock bumper is too small to sufficiently provide the proper airflow for my needs. As you know, there are many aftermarket & an OEM option out there.

I understand your hardship. It's hard to balance function & form while maintaining a final setup for your beloved FD.

 

Well I really like the stock 93 bumper for some reason. For the time being I'm going to shark tooth it and eventually replace it with the RE-A or a 99 spec. I just picked up a set of R1 dual oil coolers to replace my single one. So that end of things is taken care of.

So for custom lines... can this be done with say, AN lines? or will custom hardlines (which I don't have tools to do) need to be made?

The mounting of the condensor is not what I'm concerned about it's the lines.

 

^^ Agreed. From the pictures, and from what Jason said, rubber lines can be used. I'm no A/C expert, so I have no information on long term effects. I would give Jason a call to discuss your options.

 

I would use a ducted large stock mount, a vented hood, and methanol injection.

 

I'm working on a custom v-mount setup right now. I have the stock ic and my radiator pulled out. I have a fluidyne radiator that I took to Rotary Performance to have the converted to work as a vmount rad (it takes welding, which I don't have experience with). they are supposed to have it back in the next week, so if you wait a few weeks, I'll have some picks of the whole install.

I'm also going to keep the A/C, but haven't had time to put effort to it yet. Also, I'm going to try to keep a full size battery. I've got a xspower ic, the bigger one they sell for the FD. its 18" wide, which is significantly bigger than stock but doesn't take up the whole bay. I'm going to have to fab up shielding/ductwork, but hopefully will end up out around $600 out of pocket total.

 

sounds good. updates when you have them!

Did you remove your AC yet for the install... I pulled mine out today to make things easier to work on. Now when it goes back in, I think I read somewhere that the dryer needs to be replaced once it hit regular air.. is this true

Or, when I put the rad and IC back in can I just bolt the AC right back in

 

I've pulled the a/c radiator. The system was already decompressed because one of those charge kits ripped off the intake nipple (grrrr....). I'll need to do some research on the drier. probably be taking this the last week of december when my radiator is back. I'm going to make templates for the ducting next week from cardboard so I have something to do.

 

Rotary Extreme still has their VMIC. Has the mounting for the condensor already, and all you need to do is get the ac lines bent or have them made at an ac shop.

 

Yes, but at a difference of $1000 from the RX7 store kit.

I don't have that much money to burn.

 

Not to mention Jason's kit includes extra brackets for fabrication just for this purpose. I see myself leaning towards this option as well.

 

The ONLY thing I really don't want to do is re-locate my battery. I would rather run a small oddessy if I could. The fact that thier kit requires a relocating is the one thing that's kind of holding me back from buying it right now. Waiting to see if by chance some other option becomes available.

I wonder how hard it would be to cut the end tank off, shorten the core and re-weld. Then made some new piping and have room for a battery?

 

We have looked at making a battery mount on the cross bar behind the intercooler. There is enough room there for a PC680 battery.

 

- fist u need PFC new1300$ or used for 500-700$
- greddy replica intercooler --ebay 400$
- AEM methanol injection kit 330 $
- upgrade the radiator --ebay 160 $
- supra fuel pump 250$
- inlarge secondary injectors to 1300cc..320 $
- streight pipe no cats
- good boost controler AEM
- wideband AEM
- 3bar map
- msd ignition
- gt35r single turbo
- frp

u will need to do some fabrication

one of ther cars from my club wit that setup made
410rwhp at 15psi

430 rwhp at 17psi

you will need tuning and that will be 400 +

that about cheapest way i would say
and then u will have something

 

[QUOTE=bc_fd3s;9688769]The ONLY thing I really don't want to do is re-locate my battery. I would rather run a small oddessy if I could. The fact that thier kit requires a relocating is the one thing that's kind of holding me back from buying it right now. Waiting to see if by chance some other option becomes available.

I wonder how hard it would be to cut the end tank off, shorten the core and re-weld. Then made some new piping and have room for a battery?


Why don't you want to relocate the battery? Easy job, little fabrication, and better weight distribution.....

 

hmm^^ this is a question about rads and ICs. Not how to build my car.

my build thread is here already https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-292/my-1993-vr-touring-dd-track-day-build-thread-878590/


And Jason.. it's hard to see in the photo, but you say that black cross member is visible? If that's the case that is very good news. I was really not looking forward to having to move the battery.