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help: front shock install..i am stuck

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Old 05-31-03, 05:11 PM
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help: front shock install..i am stuck

I am trying to install my koni yellows. Back went on no problem, however i cant seem to install my front passenger. I cant seem to get the lower part of the shock into the lower a arm. I tried to get the bottom in first...goes in...but then i cant get the top under the fender..its too tall. I tried compressing it eveything..wont go..too tall. I could get the top on but then i cant get the bottom into the lower A arm..its too tight....man i have been working on this front shock for 4 hours...i am stuck...any pointers/tips?
It would really help if i could call you..much esier to desribe my problem...tyhanks alot!
Old 05-31-03, 07:04 PM
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I had a very similar problem installing GAB Super R shocks in my '93. Landed up filing down the lower portion of the shock, it was just too wide. Also, used a short pry bar to get it in.
Old 05-31-03, 07:12 PM
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Did you remove the front sway bar? If not, it will limit the amount the lower A-arm can drop. Put the top in first, and then the lower bushing should fit. The angle that the lower bushing enters into the lower A-arm must be right, otherwise it won't go in. Once the bushing is engaged, use a drift pin to center the bushing so that the lower mounting bolt will go in easier.
Old 05-31-03, 07:15 PM
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Originally posted by jramosrx7
I had a very similar problem installing GAB Super R shocks in my '93. Landed up filing down the lower portion of the shock, it was just too wide. Also, used a short pry bar to get it in.
so you installed the top first the tried forcing the shock into the lower mount?
not sure if you are suppose to install bottom first or top..thats one of the issues!?

I tried sanding it down a bit...nothing...not sure if i want to grind more...there has to be a way to slide it in...i am doing something wrong..
Old 05-31-03, 07:20 PM
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Originally posted by gcthree
Did you remove the front sway bar? If not, it will limit the amount the lower A-arm can drop. Put the top in first, and then the lower bushing should fit. The angle that the lower bushing enters into the lower A-arm must be right, otherwise it won't go in. Once the bushing is engaged, use a drift pin to center the bushing so that the lower mounting bolt will go in easier.
thats actually a good idea...lightening in a world of thunder and rob robinette both didnt mention to remove the sway bar. So you think the sway bar will allow it to drop?

Thats the problem..i need the lower A arm to drop more....i have been pushing it down with my chest while tryin to pry the shock in...you should see me right now...i am a wreck! its really been a disaster...i popped a couple of the grease bushings with the long screw driver i have been using as a pry bar. I feel like i am hacking up my fd...terible man...i take care of it like its my baby.
Old 05-31-03, 07:20 PM
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see if this helps.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...=strut+install
Old 05-31-03, 07:25 PM
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Or instead of removing the sway bar, jack up the other side of the car. This will take the tension off the bar and allow the a-arm to drop like you need it to. I had the same trouble with my spring install long ago. Not with my coilover install cause I knew better. But this time I just took the sway bar completely off.

-Joseph
Old 05-31-03, 07:55 PM
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thanks alot guys...i will tackle this again tomorrow.....i cant go out there now,....there is a racoon the size of a large dog thats usually eating my garage...he will get his soon...thats the next project!

if any one else has any ideas please post em.
Old 05-31-03, 08:08 PM
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If I remember correctly I installed the top first and then the bottom. Some filing was done for clearance as stated already and had to use some leverage to get it in.

What you need is a second person to push down while you insert the shock.

Like most things on our cars...its a PIA.
Old 05-31-03, 09:43 PM
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Matty... i PM'd and also responded to your other thread, but i didn't realize you only had one side of the car jacked up.

I learned from my coilover install that the wheel will not drop as far if you only jack one side due to the sway bar... you'll get full droop if you have both sides up... hope this helps.... I'm surprised you got it out this way in the first place.
Old 06-01-03, 12:10 AM
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I can't believe that nobody else said this, but I didn't see it.

The control arms have sliding metal bushings. If your shock seems too wide, it is because you haven't relieved the bushing in the control arm.

Take a socket and place it where the shock will be. Use a big screwdriver and a hammer on the socket to drive the bushing back into the control arm.

This is elementary stuff and it is explained in the shop manual.
Old 06-01-03, 12:12 AM
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And, yes, I know he mentioned that the problem is height. Well, if the bottom isn't placed correctly within the control arm it is likely that is causing the height issue.

Yes, not disconnecting the sway bar, or not having both front wheels in the air can cause the same problem, but I bet that not having the bottom of the strut within the confines of the control arm is a major part of the problem.
Old 06-01-03, 06:09 AM
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Very nive WVRx7...you are correct about the bushings
Old 06-01-03, 08:05 AM
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I had to grind the bottom of my koni's to fit them in that lower bracket. The dampener was just too wide to fit. I fooled around with it using every lever I could find for about 2 hours and once I decided to grind it a bit with my dremel it took me about 5 min to get them both in. It is still really tight fit so I dont have any play in them and I just took a tad off one side. I also installed the bottom first but mine were double adjustables so there was no problem clearing the top. When I did my Tokicos I had to put the top on first I think...


Shawn
Old 06-01-03, 05:59 PM
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WElp...i jacked up both ends and the shock slid in like butter...i cant believe i went thru all this trouble when the answer was so simple. Let this be a lesson to all...jack up both sides of the front and its a piece of cake. The fronts took me under an hour when both sides were up..unbelieveable!

Thanks for helping!
Old 06-01-03, 06:07 PM
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Originally posted by evot23
Very nive WVRx7...you are correct about the bushings
yep pushing the bushing back is the key too. I knew enough to push it back but i still couldnt get the shock in, the lower a arm prevented me...oh well all ok now. Unfortunately i popped a couple a grease bushings in the process of prying...is the car driveablke like this foir a week or two?
Old 06-01-03, 09:03 PM
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Jack up both sides, disconnect the sway bar links from the lower control arm. Be careful not to rip out the ABS sensor (you're supposed to take if off but mine was frozen on. Make sure the top plate is aligned properly relative to the lower mount before uncompressing your spring with your new strut. Put the top in first. Bottom is a little tight, had to tap it in with a big screwdriver and hammer.
Old 05-28-06, 10:53 PM
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Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but...

I'm having the exact same problem installing some stock shocks. I've tried everything mentioned in this thread, namely:
-Both sides of the car are on jackstands
-Sway disconnected on both sides
-I've hammered at the sliding metal bushings, but they don't budge. I also tried using a nut+bold+washer to push it back in, to no avail.

I don't really want to have to resort to grinding down the shocks, but I'm not sure where to go from here.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Old 05-29-06, 11:47 AM
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Anyone know if hammering the sliding bushings is the right approach, or is there a better way to push them back? I'm almost sure that is the problem, because the bushings stick out farther on the passenger side of the car (about the width of two nickels, instead of the width of one nickel).
Old 05-29-06, 11:54 AM
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Yes, you have to hammer them in. Use a rubber-head mallet.
Old 05-29-06, 06:27 PM
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wow this is old thread. Anyways....if anyone is reading this that needs help, jacking up the entire front of the car makes the job a piece of cake!
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