RotaryDrift

My 94 Touring is having some problemo's....... yesterday the car ran fine until i took out the spark plugs to check my compression.... much to my dismay, when i put the plugs back in and went to drive to the store, when i push the car hard it will only let me go to 3k rpm's, if i take it slow it will let me go all the way to redline...... i checked the plugs there in the right place and i didnt cross the wires, the only thing i think i couldve done is when i cleaned the spark plugs with a wire brush i might've scrwewed something up.... someone suggested maybe one of my fuel injectors is messed up..... any suggestions???

Power_Put

if you have the standard ecu there is several functions that it does so you dont damage your engine when a sensor is not responding and you can find out by checking the codes in the diognosis box under the hud only by an experinced machanic. or i think you pulled the map sensor vacume line off by mistake when unplugging the leads from the sparke pluge check that before anything else

RotaryDrift

its the factory ecu... ill have to check the line.... brb

slow wankle

hey, I live in charleston, and I just took my ecu out. if you want, you can put it in yours to see of thats the problem, but I think that they might be different. Mines a 93' R1.

oakridgerx7

just reset the computer

apexhittinbull

iTrader: (21)

all the FD non cali ECU are swappable among same year, R pkg or Touring. all 8 beat

skunks

yep, reset the ecu and you should be fine

snapcaseacilec

iTrader: (3)

Rotarydrift car is my car he didn't exactly know what was going on I told him the first time that it happend was that I was going and as soon as I hit 3K my car buckled. what is actualy going on is that when I punch on the gas the and I start to boost the car buckles and its only when i try to boost..


I guess I'm saying that would reseting the computer even work?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a boost gauge?

If you don't have one, get one or borrow one and check your boost pattern. See what's going on.

If the computer is in limp mode, then resetting the computer may be a temporary fix. However, if the computer is in limp mode, it went into that mode for some reason.

J.S.J

I guess I am missing something? I read he pulled the plugs/wires and preformed a compression test. Maybe I missed something? If not it sounds like a secondary ignition problem meaning a plug or wire a skew. A spark plug cracked, plug wire damaged during preformed work, plug boot damaged, etc. Ignition voltage isolation is needed most during power operation and not so during a soft throttle input. Isolating this is easiest done using a spray bottle filled with hot salted water. Spray it on the wires etc and snap the throttle. Wetting the wires/plugs will help expose a flaw in the system. If its the problem it will be "worse" after wet down. Note, salted water is a better conductor so will it will work better than straight water.

J.S.J

I just read it again, Some times when you use a wire type device to clean the plugs it will transfer some of the wire to the plug electrode and cause the plug to become skewed. The material left behind can cause the spark to bypass the plug gap and jump to a narrower ground and thus not create a large enough spark to ignite the mixture.

snapcaseacilec

iTrader: (3)

I have a boost gauge and the most I can reach before it bogs is 3psi. I got new plugs yesterday just need time to put them in and I'll reset the computer. and see if that does it. If not I'M SCREWED (high pitched voice).

Thanks for the help I will keep everyone posted

Nieto

maxcooper

I don't necessarily think this is your problem, but I thought sharing the info might help eliminate the possibility or identify your issue as being related to a dead secondary injector:

I had a dead secondary injector. The symptoms were:

- car idles fine, and drives fine off-boost at low RPM (though it is hard to stay off boost once the revs climb, so you have to use a very light foot on the gas pedal once into the boost-able RPM range)
- car would totally fall on its face (major stumble, no recovery, acceleration pretty much stops) under any boost
- car would also fall on its face at about 4000 RPM even if I wasn't boosting

I never tried to rev it up past 4000 RPM in neutral, but trying accelerating the car past that point (or with any boost) would not do much -- it just coughed and stumbled and didn't really accelerate at all.

-Max

snapcaseacilec

iTrader: (3)

I reset my ecu and I can boost again!!!!

I'll change my plugs when I get a deepwell,

Thanks everyone.

laters
Nieto

93BlackFD

yeah, it's not a 3k rev limit, it's a boost limit, anything over vaccum is not tolerated, that's why he said he can slowly get to redline

Power_Put

so like i said and majhik get a boost gauge and check boost pattern, then if you see its rev limiting or whatever!! when boost is comming in check the map sensor vacum line and the fuel press regulator vacum line behind the UIM either i think the regulator is not compensating with pressured fuel or the map sensor is not sending the proper signal (volt) to your ecu because of split vacum line or bad map sensor.

be carefull because it can damage you motor. good luck

NukeGenius

He said earlier that he has a boost gage and can't pass 3 pounds. By the way nieto, I have a socket that fits those spark plugs. You can come over whenever you want. It's sitting in the engine bay of my fd.

saiyan

iTrader: (1)

Got the same problem today, after I replace most of my gasket from turbo piping, and manifold, etc.. while I was replace the gasket on the y-pipe, I also replace the lower hose that runs to the LIM. I disconnected one of the injector's connector so that I could get more room to get to the nipple on the LIM. After putting everything back together, my car idles fine, but when I decided to take it for a drive, it pops, choke, stumble, etc. and don't want to go, like it was going to die.... what could it be? did I screw up the injector connector wiring or is it something else?????