Hi guys!
I took the rear brake pads off from the disks. Problem is that I could not push the piston back in. There is not enough room for new pads and disks without pushing the piston back in. I have tried a spreader. it did not work. The preasure of the piston is very hard. There must be a way to do it. My car is sitting in the parking lot, and it is not drivable now.
so, if anyone of you has done this before, please inform me!
Thank you in advance.

 

The rear pistons don't push in, they screw in. Most local auto stores will have a little "cube" tool which has various piston sizes on it. Get one, and then crank the piston in so you can install the pads.

 

This is another reason why everyone should have a copy printed or electronic of the workshop manual. I ran into this same problem the first time I did my rear brakes, but a quick look up in the shop manual revealed that the piston needed to be screwed in. Course, I didn't have the correct tool, and lemme tell you, it's a PITA to do with needle nose pliars.

 

thanks Mahjik. I am gonna run about 5miles to a store. ^^

 

I just changed mine two days ago. I didn't have the right tool either, So I started with some vice grips and turned the piston clockwise (tighten). Make sure you don't cut into the rubber bushing that surrounds the piston. Then once the piston was seated under the rubber bushing, get a 1/2" wrench. Put one end of the wrench over the piston, and in the grooves.. I then inserted the handle of a socket wrench perpendicular with the wrench ( forming a T) on the other side of the wrench. This allowed me to turn the piston with a little effort.
Good Luck!

 

Actually needle nose pliers are what I always used until I bought the factory special service tool for compressing the rear caliper piston LOL

 

i found out when i soych on the forum

like wut u should have done, sry lol

 

woops

 

Whenever I try the needle nose pliers they will slip sseveral times throughout the procedure and I will pinch myself in the teeth of it. Very painful but I going right back at it and doing it again. The cube tool sucks and is only slightly better than the needle nose, main benefit being you dont pinch yourself. Last time I just used a c-clamp and cranked it down as hard as I could, this was on a Galant and not my FD. Worked and was easier than doing it the right way, not that I would recommend trying it.

 

This set is the best when it comes to rear brakes! (why brake jobs are expensive)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_d...re&dir=catalog

Way better than this one:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_d...re&dir=catalog

 

you don't need any special set (although i guess it would make it a bit easier), just grab a 1/2" wrench or so and position it so that it goes right between the edge of the piston and you can turn it in pretty easily. kinda hard to explain but if you fiddle with it for a while, you should beable to do it pretty easily.

 

The cube works good for the piston turning

 

Are the rear brake pistons threaded ?

What if you opened-up the bleeder screw, and slow pushed the piston back in with a C-clamp ? Would you damage anything or not have something work ?

TIA,
:-) neil

 

YES


The piston will not "push in" You have to rotate it. The parking brake cable is connected to a lever on the caliper that rotates a worm shaft.

That is what pushes the piston out when you set the brake.