i think my oil pan gasket is leaking .. rather than just replacing the gasket i think ill get an aftermarket oil pan (was gonna do it later on in my to do mods list .. but i guess now is good a time as any) .. any recommendations?

also is it worth going with an aftermarket one? or are stock ones just fine?
my ultimate goal is to take the car autocrossing

http://www.xcessivemotorsports.com/m...?pid=16&step=4

this oil pan says
"thick pan rails (10mm, 3/8") plus strong side walls increase the overall strength of the engine and eliminate rotor housing shift."

 

oh crap i just noticed this

"This product is for off road use only and not intended for use on emissions controlled vehicles. By purchasing this product you are assuming all liabilities associated with its installation and use."

one more question: would aftermarket oil pans affect my emissions?

 

IMO, a better solution (if you want to add strength) is this:

http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...oducts_id=1076

 

The biggest problem with that pan is there's no provision for the stock oil level sensor. You'll either have to ditch that system or have the pan modified for a level sensor. IMHO the sensor is VERY necessary to have. I've blown oil cooler lines on FC's that emptied the oil pan in a few SECONDS - the oil level sensor told me what I needed to know, and I shut off the engine instantly.

Also, I believe the pan sticks down past the subframe, which could be tricky for a street car. I'd hate to hit that oil pan and crack it!

I'm with Mahjik - that oil pan brace is a good idea. Moroso also makes an oil pan stud kit that replaces all the bolts with studs and nuts. I installed that kit on my FC, really nice. It's about $20 from Summit.

Dale

 

The other key to no oil pan leaks is to NOT use a gasket. Just use "Hondabond" or an equivalent with no gasket.

 

thanks for the prompt and informative replies will take your advices and keep the stock .. and go with "hondabond" for now .. and maybe when i get little extra cash ill get the oil pan brace

 

If you're going to reseal the stock pan, look at this thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...il+pan+removal

 

Resealing the oil pan is no easy job. You can't just take it off and put it right back on.

I suggest that you take a good look under the car, to see what you are getting into, before you get started.

 

If you use the hondabond or any kind of RTV sealer, make sure the oil pan lip and the engine block are COMPLETELY clean of all debris and old gasket material, etc!

 

people bitching about the gasket being the problem are doing the job wrong. I always use new gaskets AND RTV and i have never had one leak yet. Attention to detail is major on these cars and it seems as most want to blame the parts for the problem instead of themselves for not being carefull enough and checking all things involved.

Either way you go , gasket or no, you need to be absolutely sure the flange surface is PERFECTLY flat and semetric all the way around the engine. Otherwise you will leak no matter what. You also need to make absolutley sure that once you tighten down the engine mount bolts, You need to RE-torque the smaller bolts around the entire flange. Otherwise the rear pan bolts will be loose and that will be your leak. ...again. no matter if you have a gasket or not.

 

i've got the upgraded oil pan and love it. it holds an extra quart of oil, is really strong, does NOT sit below the subframe, and uses an oring to seal. i haven't had any problems with mine since i put it on. i reccomend it.

i dunno why the oil level sensor would matter anyway. if the light comes on your are pretty much F*ed, just check your oil level with the dipstick every once in a while.

harrison

 

vspecpgt what kind of upgraded oil pan you got?

also .. what type of hondabond should i go with? i see hondabond 4 and hondabond ht

 

no you are nut fukt if the light comes on. it pecifically comes on before all the oil is all gone so it gives you warning that there is a problem. while checking the oil will solve the issue"before" you start driving, it does nothing for while driving. there is some method to the engineers madness.... not much but some.

Also the flexing of the engine is really only an issue in "big power" engines. It really is not a problem with lightly to medium modded cars.

If you plan on going that route then maybe dumpping the coin for that pan is worth it. But i would try Gotham's brace before another pan.

 

BigIslandSevens,

IMO, one problem that gets eliminated with no gasket is that a gasket will stress-relax under the engine mounts, and eventually, the engine mounts will loosen. This can cause a leak. If there is no gasket, and everthing is bolted down tight while the sealer is still uncured, everything is bolted metal-to-metal, and there is nothing "soft" to stress-relax. Therefore, there is less chance that leaks will develop.

 

I agree about the gasket slacking somewhat after the engine has beat the mounts for a while.But the point of the engine mounts loosening up still holds true whether you have the gasket or not. Unless you are trying to make me believe that the RTV will not relax and spread apart as well. Which is a "stretch" No pun intended to. That is why i use "both" the gasket AND RTV. And the last time i checked cured RTV it was far from solid. spongy yes,. solid no.

As i said, i have had no problems with them leaking again. and my personal pan is on a single turbo FD. Which by the comments of twisting should show a leak sooner than a stock twin engine.
I think you could get away with it either way as long as you pay very close attention to all the little things that will cause a leak. ( engine mount bolts, re-torquing the pan bolts after the Mounts are tightened. Which is the main cause of the false blame being put towards the mounts loosening. And first and foremost having a flat or semetric oil pan flange.) That is the most common thing i see after a pan has been removed for a attempted leak solution. Most of them are stuck on from the heat and "most" people/techs just pry the pan off. Then they do not flatten the flange back to where it should be.

This is not an argument on my part, just trying to shed light on the more"common" mistakes i have seen people and other techs make while doing this job.And to aliviate the blame from a part. Which seems to be the easiest place to put the blame. So take it as just my opinion and experiences.

 

yea, i've that one... well, i think mine is a Ground Zero but yea..... same thing.


harrison

 

i am with BI7 on this one if you take your time and CLEAN it throughly. torque it evenly and use a good sealant it does not leak.

 

For the price of the oil pan you almost got enough to dry sump it.

 

How about the upgraded oil pan and the oil pan brace?

 

I just installed a new pan and gotham oil pan brace on mine and changed to full synthetic. The key is to make sure you clean the pan, make sure the flange is flat and clean as a surgical room, all bolt holes need to be cleaned of old gasket. Use the right stuff for imports gasket maker and get it on the oil pan flange and the engine housing itself, nice and thick and around each bolt hole and especially, I MEAN MAKE SURE to goop it up where the tranny and rear housing and oil pan flange meet. I did not get this good enough the first time and had to redo it. also the motor mount bolts need to be sealed well also. torque to proper specs. FSM. after all that I have no drops of oil at all, and its synthetic, if it had leaks mobil 1 will find them. good luck oh by the way I also did it without lowering the subframe and I can get the oil pan out everytime by jacking the tranny and turning it 180 degrees and lowering it through the subframe itself. downpipe might have a litlle to do with that. thats my experience.