Headlights stopped working
07-11-17, 06:22 PM
#1
Headlights stopped working
before I get started, I have searched, and I've done all of the troubleshooting that I could based on the search results.
My headlights stopped coming on when i when I turn the switch on the column. Flash-to-pass still works, and the high beams come on when I push the lever forward. The button to manually raise the lights still works. All other lights come on when I turn the switch on except for the fog lights.
I tested the headlight relay and it checks out ok. I bought a new relay just to be sure and it did not fix the problem. I can jumper across the relay from the white/green wire to either of the red wires on the relay plug and the headlights raise and turn on like they should, along with the fog lights. I have battery voltage at the red wire on the column switch, and continuity to ground on the black wire. I get no voltage to the white/blue wire at the relay with the switch on or off.
What should i check next? I'm assuming the retractor relay is still good since the lights move up and down with the manual switch.
My headlights stopped coming on when i when I turn the switch on the column. Flash-to-pass still works, and the high beams come on when I push the lever forward. The button to manually raise the lights still works. All other lights come on when I turn the switch on except for the fog lights.
I tested the headlight relay and it checks out ok. I bought a new relay just to be sure and it did not fix the problem. I can jumper across the relay from the white/green wire to either of the red wires on the relay plug and the headlights raise and turn on like they should, along with the fog lights. I have battery voltage at the red wire on the column switch, and continuity to ground on the black wire. I get no voltage to the white/blue wire at the relay with the switch on or off.
What should i check next? I'm assuming the retractor relay is still good since the lights move up and down with the manual switch.
Last edited by redheddude222; 07-11-17 at 06:30 PM.
07-11-17, 09:51 PM
#2
That doesn't make sense. You can jump the wires going to the relay and have the headlights actuate but with a new relay...... it doesn't work? Your problem sucks lol
Shoot backwards from that wire you're not getting power to is really all I can suggest. Your symptoms are that of a failed headlight relay. You replaced/are testing the one next to the fuse box right?
Shoot backwards from that wire you're not getting power to is really all I can suggest. Your symptoms are that of a failed headlight relay. You replaced/are testing the one next to the fuse box right?
07-12-17, 08:37 AM
#3
Yes, the relay in front of the wheel well next to the battery and fuse box. The plug has four wires: white/blue, white/green, a single red wire, and a double red wire. I can jump the white/green to either of the red wires and the headlights and fog lights come on.
07-12-17, 01:03 PM
#6
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Remember, there's a headlight relay that is JUST for the bulbs in the headlights and the retractor relay that runs the headlight motors to make them pop up. Check out the retractor relay as well.
Dale
Dale
07-12-17, 01:26 PM
#7
Where is the other headlight relay located?
*Edit* A quick search shows that it's in front of the radiator. I'll pull that and check it tonight.
Last edited by redheddude222; 07-12-17 at 01:31 PM.
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07-12-17, 01:49 PM
#8
All out Track Freak!
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I'm pretty sure you should be getting some voltage to one of those wires you are not getting voltage to when the switch is on. Hit the switch and it sends the power to switch the relay.
Or not
Or not
07-12-17, 06:50 PM
#10
Super Moderator
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Redheaddude,
Don't forget that CPU #2 (Body CPU) also affects the retractable headlight circuit. You may want to check it. It's Input #81 on schematic E-1 (pg Z-95). It's unusual for the headlight switch on the stalk to break however, CPU #2 is prone to failures.
Cheers,
George
Don't forget that CPU #2 (Body CPU) also affects the retractable headlight circuit. You may want to check it. It's Input #81 on schematic E-1 (pg Z-95). It's unusual for the headlight switch on the stalk to break however, CPU #2 is prone to failures.
Cheers,
George
Last edited by Gen2n3; 07-12-17 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Added CPU #2 failure prone remark
07-12-17, 07:05 PM
#11
Redheaddude,
Don't forget that CPU #2 (Body CPU) also affects the retractable headlight circuit. You may want to check it. It's Input #81 on schematic E-1 (pg Z-95). It's unusual for the headlight switch on the stalk to break however, CPU #2 is prone to failures.
Cheers,
George
Don't forget that CPU #2 (Body CPU) also affects the retractable headlight circuit. You may want to check it. It's Input #81 on schematic E-1 (pg Z-95). It's unusual for the headlight switch on the stalk to break however, CPU #2 is prone to failures.
Cheers,
George
07-12-17, 07:29 PM
#12
Super Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Look at the schematic again, please. Input #81 is an input from CPU#2 that works in conjunction with the Headlight Relay. If that input is not present, it will not supply the voltage to the HEAD component on the combo switch which would not allow the headlights to function normally. CPU #2 (and CPU #1) also receives inputs from the TNS circuit too. See Schematic E-3 and look at Outputs #87 & 88.
As a side note, when my FC's CPU #2 took a massive power spike, the headlights constantly remained up regardless of switch settings. Power was always applied to the retractor motors. After I disconnected the Body CPU, the headlights could be manually run up & down and the retractor switch worked.
It may sound far-fetched, but remove the Body CPU and inspect it for any damage. If possible, swap in a different Body CPU and see what happens.
As a side note, when my FC's CPU #2 took a massive power spike, the headlights constantly remained up regardless of switch settings. Power was always applied to the retractor motors. After I disconnected the Body CPU, the headlights could be manually run up & down and the retractor switch worked.
It may sound far-fetched, but remove the Body CPU and inspect it for any damage. If possible, swap in a different Body CPU and see what happens.
07-12-17, 07:48 PM
#13
I saw a post saying that CPU #2 is in the driver's footwell area. Is this correct? And is it under the carpet, or up by the steering column? A picture of the location would be perfect.
*Edit* I found a picture. Kick panel under the dash on the driver's side.
*Edit* I found a picture. Kick panel under the dash on the driver's side.
Last edited by redheddude222; 07-12-17 at 07:53 PM.