Hows it going, i have a single turbo Half bridgeport Rew with a Power FC, it has been a very tuff engine and just recently started acting strang. ill try to post the couple videos i took. it gradually got worse and worse after my recent fuel upgrade. I put 1680 primarys in it (overkill i know) with resistors and an aeromotive steath 340 intank pump. i have a bosch inline pump and secondarys are also 1680s. the car first did it while going down the track, it cut out and came back immediatly, i thought my battery wire came undone. so on my way back to the front it would not get over 2000 rps without cutting out completely. after i shut it off it acted fine. couple weeks later i was at a stop sign in town and it started agian, hit 2k rpms and cut out for a second till it got done near 17-1800 then would start back up the rmps untill it hit 2k and cut out again, pulled over and stopped, checked a few wires and after driving again it acted fine.. well long story short it would have that problem, ide stop at a stop sign rev it up and it would act normal again, it was completely random when it started doing it but would always start after i had made a stop somewhere. now its to the point that i cant get it to run normal. *BUT* the engine Temp plays a role in the rpms it cuts out at, if its cold it will go up to 3500ish before it cuts out. but once it warms up it right round 2k. **ANOTHER STRANG THING ABOUT IT is if its acting strange and while driving i shut the key off and turn it back on, it acts completely normal untill i let off the throttle. then back to its ***** behavior!!! So driving it anywhere consists of me turning the key on and off about 80 times lol! does anyone have any ideas, ive searched these forums and havent found a simalar problem. my meth kit recently started malfunctioning (meth would continuasly spray if key was on) and i took it off and AEM gave me a new one. that was another strange part. if anyone has any ideas please throw them at me!

Ill upload the videos in the next post. Thanks

 

take a log with the PFC while the issue is going on and do you have a wideband? what's the AFR jumping to when the issue is going on?

i'm curious how you actually got it to run half decent with the PFC and 1700 primaries though... why do you need so much fuel?

 

Holy cow 1700cc injectors for primaries and secondaries? Lol

Def talk about overkill.

 

probably killing the plugs with that carburetor of a setup.

 

Here is a driving video and i am not letting off the fuel, foot to the floor! it cuts out by itself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH9wriVKGpE

And here is the hand controller readings while just reving it up. again im not letting off the gas, cuts out and back in by itself. i do let off during its idle point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITpAVBpJhsM


I put the 1680s in because i want worried about the drivability as much as the Injection duty being low, i put down 516rwhp and was going for over 600 so i just wanted enough fuel without any more upgrades. i had 850 primarys and i was at 90 something % Injection Duty. it has a pt67 billet turbo and was wanting to do 28 pounds or more. So thats why i did the huge injectors. and the car ran fine and i checked the plugs and they look good still. they arent fowled because turning key off and back on enables the car to drive normal.

 

Here are a couple pics while driving of the volts. i do have a wideband. the airfuel drops off when it cuts out, but otherwise is normal.

 

what are your settings in the PFC for those primaries and what resistor sizes?

drops off as in fuel cut/lean i'm assuming? sounds like it.

 

http://www.znperformance.com/product...20resistor.htm

these are the resistors i have and here is a picture of my injector screen.

 

Also I checked the intank pump and it does kick on when I turn the key on. As well as my bosch inline. It runs constant. I guess it just depends on what changes when the key is just turned on or if it bypasses reading some stuff. But I've heard that there is no limp mode on the pfc but that's what it acts like. Is there any sensors I need to check? It drove fine and just got worse and worse. But being as it will rev higher due to the temperature the car is at makes me think its a voltage issue somewhere? Lol Does that make since?

 

Check the TPS sensor?

 

No wideband?

 

Ya i do have a wideband on the car. I took the TPS off and it looks fine, no cracks or anything, so how can i test it without buying a new one? i dont have any friends in the area with Rotarys lol.

 

How to guide:

http://www.westpennmazdaclub.com/fil...%20FD%20RX.pdf

 

Thanks alot man, ill give it a try! it seams like that could be it. ill let ya know how it goes.

 

Check your map sensor.... or take a charge pipe coupler off to see if it does it under boost...although...I wouldn't mash the pedal down....

 

Ok so i took of my TPS and put it back on, adjusted it within specs and started it up, after starting it it had the same exact problem, but after shutting it off and turning it back on, it is acting perfect, drove it for two days with no problems! so i guess in some strange way it worked! thanks for your help.