Is this just another perk of the FD? Today I spent a good 10mins in the parking lot mall trying to keep myself from going crazy because the key just would not turn when I put it in the ignition swith.

It was on lock and wouldn't budge. I finally forced it to turn and it finally gave in and the key turned and I was able to start the car.

But lately it seems it wont let the key turn and wont get out of the lock position. But today it was unbelievebly hard. Ideas? or again is this just another "get used to it" trait of the FD?

 

Hmm..sometimes it's really hard to get the key out of my FD. And I've only spent a day with it.

Starting her up is no problem, it's shutting her down and getting the key out that's difficult sometimes...like I have to turn it just right.

 

You wiggled the steering wheel back and forth a bit to disengage the cogs, right? Clutch all the way in for good measure before key twist/removal?

 

Ah...didn't know you had to have the clutch all the way to remove the key?

That seems new to me?

 

Yup, I always push the clutch to the ground when trying to turn the key. Like I said today was the first time it was way hard to turn, so I push the clutch down and wiggled the steering wheel every so often but the key still wouldnt turn. I really had to force the key to turn, felt like it was gunna brake.

 

have you tried using graphite lube? it works wonders on my car.

 

Many of the key designs have cuts in them that weaken the blank near the base. Look for two converging "valleys" and you'll probably see a small hairline crack, or a slight twist in the key if viewed head on.

It will break inside the lock if you force it - don't ask me how I know.

Get a couple of new keys made immediately and toss your old ones, I guarantee you it will break off inside either the door or the ignition.

Then you get to call a locksmith!

The only real solution is to re-key everything with a different cut or just keep a couple of fresh ones handy.

 

I had this problem when I first got my car. Don't know if my situation applies to you though. The lady I bought my car from gave me two keys: one with the Mazda logo on it, and the other that was a replica. I naturally initally used the Mazda one. That was the one I had problems with. I switched to the replica and no problem. Maybe she used the replica and wore down the lock cylinder? I don't know but I haven't had any problems with the replica.

 

If you cant get it to turn to start, wiggle the steering wheel and press the clutch. Can't get it out push the key inward toward the steering column and then turn it.

 

I've broken off a key in the door lock and another in the ignition. Now I carry an extra key on my keyring.
Try getting some foaming lubricant and spraying it into the locks. Tri-Flow works well. WD40 evaporates too quickly. And don't use chain lube. It gets too hard when it's cold.

 

Thanks for the unput guys. Today I was able to turn the key w/out any hassle which was a relief.

I'm looking at my key right now and if I'm correct I'm looking at this "valley". There are some very small chips and hairline fractures there. So I guess I'll be going to the dealership for some new keys. Do they charge for it?

Also on this lubing, are you guys suggesting I put lube directly inside the key slot of the ignition switch? It sounds kind of dangerous? Thanks guys.

 

Go to Ace Hardware instead of the Dealer unless you are prepared to pay quadruple. The Ace blanks look exactly the same without a Mazduh logo. They are about $2.50 and I think the dealer gets around $9.00.
Not to mention they'll charge you an arm and leg for having the new key produced.

I recommend graphite dust instead of any liquid lube. Get it at Ace also. I think there may be some graphite dust that has a liquid carrier that evaporates completey.
Makes it easy to shoot in there.

The residue from petroleum based liquid lubricants will attract dust and over time and gum up the lock. You might want to insert the tip of the red tube that comes with some spray carb or contact cleaner in there first to dissolve any gunk that has already built up. Give it a half hour to evaporate completely before using the graphite dust. Don't over do the cleaner, some of them eat paint.

 

Thanks a lot RonKMiller, I'll get into that. But I'd be able to find graphite dust at any car store like kragens or autozone if I dont find a ACE, right? Thanks again.

 

I've had that problem in my beater.

 

Sears Hardware has the graphite, back by where they make the keys. Personally I don't like that big plastic **** on the end of the Mazda keys. Mine had the cracks at the base, when I had new ones made, I went to wal-Mart it cost like 1.50 and no plastic crap. Tom

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SoCalLove
[B]Thanks a lot RonKMiller, I'll get into that. But I'd be able to find graphite dust at any car store like kragens or autozone if I dont find a ACE, right? Thanks again.

Get to know the guys at ACE, they'll save you time AND money - lots of it.

Jeez, I sound like a commercial for the helpful hardware man........

 

I've seens high mileage cars with worn or sticking ignition swith/ignition cylinder. If your new key and lube doesnt fix the probmen, it might be a bad ignition cylinder.