Have you guys regretted removing your PS!
Well I have FC with power steering taken out (not manual steering) and FD with powersteering. Both cars have the same power, and are very comparable. In FD its way easier to drive around town and park. In FC its way easier to counter steer, feel the road and drift than FD. Hope this helps to make a decision.
i got my loop kit from gotham today. i`ll give my feedback on how that turns out.
i would like to convert, but ill have to do that whenever my engines out. hopefully not too soon tho! im ready to take a break and just enjoy the car!
this thread couldnt have come at a better time, i have found it very helpful!
i would like to convert, but ill have to do that whenever my engines out. hopefully not too soon tho! im ready to take a break and just enjoy the car!
this thread couldnt have come at a better time, i have found it very helpful!
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,807
Likes: 648
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally Posted by CCarlisi
Rich should be disqualified because he drives his car 10 miles a year in a rural area
.
.Chris, you need at least 16 inch biceps to drive without p/s. Chicken-arm vegetarians need not apply
If you autocross you won't be able to do steer fast enough through the tight stuff. IIRC all of the National level SCCA FDs still have PS despite the weight penalty.
I think for track events no PS is not an issue, turns and transitions are much slower events.
As far as in-town parking etc I'd like to have PS, if you don't need/want it then do what you want.
I think for track events no PS is not an issue, turns and transitions are much slower events.
As far as in-town parking etc I'd like to have PS, if you don't need/want it then do what you want.
For people that have removed AC also, what happens when the windows fog up? I don't mind the heat and almost never use the AC for comfort, but it comes in pretty handy when I get caught in the rain and can't see out the window!
Originally Posted by turbogarrett
Removing powersteering was one of the best "free" mods I've done, love the way the car feels without it. I don't have a/c either, but it's not a daily driver and in wisconsin you only need it a handful of days a summer anyway.
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 10,672
Likes: 413
From: Charlottesville VA 22901
IMO the positives being less weight and easier to change plugs don't outweight the negatives being reduced car control and difficult to steer at slow speeds.
KEEP your power steering.
KEEP your power steering.
looped my ps line last year. im running 18x8.5 up front and have no problems at low speed turns. this is subjective though since my guns maybe bigger than yours. i do not regret taking out the powersteering.
Originally Posted by eatmyclutch
You can only "feel" the road better with a manual rack.
can handle removing my PS as long as the rack is packed or a NON PS rack is placed in. It is also dangerous to use a rack with just the pump removed.
As far as AC never on a daily driver here in sunny FL. I sweet some times with the AC no, no way in hell its coming out of my cars.
As far as AC never on a daily driver here in sunny FL. I sweet some times with the AC no, no way in hell its coming out of my cars.
Originally Posted by jayk
For people that have removed AC also, what happens when the windows fog up? I don't mind the heat and almost never use the AC for comfort, but it comes in pretty handy when I get caught in the rain and can't see out the window!
crack the windows, that what ive always done a/c or not
I've got some experience to share here...
A few years ago, I removed the P/S pump, lines, belt, and cooling loop on my FD. I looped up the rack lines. It drove OK like that on the stock sized wheels and tires.
When I put on some larger front rims/tires, the car became very floaty and scary to drive at high speed. I figured out that this was being caused by the flex in the quill shaft (aka rotary valve) in the P/S rack pinion. I had a local FD guy weld up my quill shaft, and the car drives SO MUCH better now.
I would not recommend removing the P/S unless you are also willing to go the extra step and weld the quill shaft. You CAN DO THIS without removing the rack (at least you can if you have no A/C or P/S parts in your way like I do)
A few years ago, I removed the P/S pump, lines, belt, and cooling loop on my FD. I looped up the rack lines. It drove OK like that on the stock sized wheels and tires.
When I put on some larger front rims/tires, the car became very floaty and scary to drive at high speed. I figured out that this was being caused by the flex in the quill shaft (aka rotary valve) in the P/S rack pinion. I had a local FD guy weld up my quill shaft, and the car drives SO MUCH better now.
I would not recommend removing the P/S unless you are also willing to go the extra step and weld the quill shaft. You CAN DO THIS without removing the rack (at least you can if you have no A/C or P/S parts in your way like I do)
I've driven my FC for 7 years w/ out PS and my AC wasn't working 85% of the time. I'm used to it...but when I bought my FD, I will never take them off! Where I live, it gets super hot and I don't wanna leave my car all sweating and stuff. lol
I have no AC and no PS. My AC was shot and I wanted to remove the PS anyways. One day I'll go back and re-install the AC. As for the PS, after 2 weeks I got so used to it I didnt even notice it didnt have it. Only time its ever bugged me is when Im trying to make a really tight 2 point turn or when Im trying to eat icecream while I drive.
Originally Posted by Wargasm
I've got some experience to share here...
A few years ago, I removed the P/S pump, lines, belt, and cooling loop on my FD. I looped up the rack lines. It drove OK like that on the stock sized wheels and tires.
When I put on some larger front rims/tires, the car became very floaty and scary to drive at high speed. I figured out that this was being caused by the flex in the quill shaft (aka rotary valve) in the P/S rack pinion. I had a local FD guy weld up my quill shaft, and the car drives SO MUCH better now.
I would not recommend removing the P/S unless you are also willing to go the extra step and weld the quill shaft. You CAN DO THIS without removing the rack (at least you can if you have no A/C or P/S parts in your way like I do)
A few years ago, I removed the P/S pump, lines, belt, and cooling loop on my FD. I looped up the rack lines. It drove OK like that on the stock sized wheels and tires.
When I put on some larger front rims/tires, the car became very floaty and scary to drive at high speed. I figured out that this was being caused by the flex in the quill shaft (aka rotary valve) in the P/S rack pinion. I had a local FD guy weld up my quill shaft, and the car drives SO MUCH better now.
I would not recommend removing the P/S unless you are also willing to go the extra step and weld the quill shaft. You CAN DO THIS without removing the rack (at least you can if you have no A/C or P/S parts in your way like I do)
Where is the quill valve on the rack? does anyone have a picture?
also, is all i need to do to loop a rack to loop the pressure line into the return?
i have the 3 hole FC rack, and i dont want the 20:1 ratio of the fc manual rack but want the looped ps to feel right.
Originally Posted by PDViper77
I just got off the phone with Maval and I will be sending in my steering rack tomorrow. Since I wanted to use my low mileage core, they took $65.00 off of the $279.00 price. So it cost me a total of 214.00 for the manual steering rack conversion using my low mileage core.
It amazes me how prices keep getting jacked up these days. Does that total include shipping back?
Originally Posted by mono4lamar
can i get the website or a contact number before it goes up again...
Originally Posted by Wargasm
I've got some experience to share here...
A few years ago, I removed the P/S pump, lines, belt, and cooling loop on my FD. I looped up the rack lines. It drove OK like that on the stock sized wheels and tires.
When I put on some larger front rims/tires, the car became very floaty and scary to drive at high speed. I figured out that this was being caused by the flex in the quill shaft (aka rotary valve) in the P/S rack pinion. I had a local FD guy weld up my quill shaft, and the car drives SO MUCH better now.
I would not recommend removing the P/S unless you are also willing to go the extra step and weld the quill shaft. You CAN DO THIS without removing the rack (at least you can if you have no A/C or P/S parts in your way like I do)
A few years ago, I removed the P/S pump, lines, belt, and cooling loop on my FD. I looped up the rack lines. It drove OK like that on the stock sized wheels and tires.
When I put on some larger front rims/tires, the car became very floaty and scary to drive at high speed. I figured out that this was being caused by the flex in the quill shaft (aka rotary valve) in the P/S rack pinion. I had a local FD guy weld up my quill shaft, and the car drives SO MUCH better now.
I would not recommend removing the P/S unless you are also willing to go the extra step and weld the quill shaft. You CAN DO THIS without removing the rack (at least you can if you have no A/C or P/S parts in your way like I do)
more info on that please...?
i figured i'd put an update for anyone wanting one soon or just for records for the future how the price keeps going up in stages... lol. they emailed me back stating its up to 215 using your core! they do not turn them out on a basis where yours is for someone else. meaning that the one you send in is the one they strip down and build back up! so you get yours back phew! thats good news for me. the turn around time can also vary he stated as they take much more other work than our fd parts. hope this helps someone...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thecody59
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
14
Jan 23, 2016 11:52 AM








