For a number of practical reasons, I would like to be able to remove and reinstall my bumper faster.

I considered using quick release latches, but it's clear that a pair or two of these on the sides won't provide enough support to keep the whole bumper from flexing away from the fenders at high speed.

I tried switching from lose bolts, nuts, and washers to rivnuts, but this arguably made things more difficult, since it doesn't allow for much misalignment.

You also can't put rivnuts in FRP parts without crushing it.

Are there any sort of captive hardware I can use to make removal and installation a breeze? Maybe nut plates?

The hardest part is the fender to bumper connection, but this needs to remain adjustable, so I'm not sure what sort of captive hardware would be best.

It seems that you need to use at least two of the three bolts on each side to get sufficient rigidity (otherwise the bumper will pull itself away from the fender).

My bumper is also a bit warped, so I have to fiddle with it to get even ground clearance. Though I should probably get a heat gun and try to straighten it out.

 

The rules of the class here only permit "bolts or screws", so we're stuck with reaching up under guards and degloving a forearm.

In other classes not restricted in that manner, I've seen an FD or two with just straight aviation style dzus on the nosecone/guard interface. For composite panels, this style of support washer https://racereadygear.com.au/product...tNkX-mJ-iONikO with a quarter turn fastener is popular on many vehicles for the more likely off-roading or rubbin' you'll get on a track - you have to dick around by mounting a tab and spring on the back side of the panel in either case.

Short pip pins and appropriate brackets up top would speed removal from the support panel if you wanted to avoid those 4 bolts, removal of undertrays and splitters still seems to need grovelling in the dirt, no matter what!

 

Lol, degloving…. I recently learned that was a thing.

I think maybe adapting some m6 speed nuts to fit the fenders might make the process a bit less painful. At least then you could remove/install the bolts with one hand using an electric ratchet.

They also make floating nut plates that allow for a bit of misalignment. Could probably rivet one to the bottom each fender or the top of the bumper, but I’m not sure if pop rivets and FRP would get along.

I don’t have a splitter yet, but the openings in my bumper are big enough that I could unbolt a splitter bracket without taking the bumper off.

If I had a frame-mounted splitter to support the bumper, I could get away with using much less hardware.

Even using one bolt between the fender and bumper isn’t enough to keep them from pulling apart when you press down on the bumper. That is why I am wary of using Dzus fasteners and the like.


Considering people use wood to make splitters, I wonder if I could use wood to make the mount too, lol.

 

Wait, no, I was thinking bass ackwards about the fenders.

I think I might be able to get away with leaving the fenders unbolted if I just add another pair of brackets to the bottom of the bumper to give them a bit more support.

It’s the same total number of bolts, but they’re all relatively east to access.

 

that is the factory setup. Set Plates, (FD01-50-1D0 and FD01-50-1E0) are held on the bumper with a screw (FC used a plastic clip), if you wanted speed maybe use 2 of the nuts instead of all four?
then the corner uses sort of a plastic rivnut, and a screw, if you're going for speed, make it the same wrench as everything else, or a wingnut, or a quarter turn

 

[5th post down in this thread http://https://www.rx7club.com/time-...tralia-695391/ roughly shows the position of the dzus he has used. The car would have reached 250~260k even with twins on that track. Another engine swapped FD runs similar with bigger aero and seems to have avoided trouble so far.

Did find those quick releases on the stock nosecone very fiddly in years past and just use M6 bolts and large washers in that area on a fibreglass nose now. Floating nut plates might work in that position, riveting them in position might be an issue in the interface, unless you can countersink somehow.

 

Ah, so he's got two on both sides... That would probably work better.
I wonder where else it's being supported, considering the size of the front lip.

 

Ah.... Maybe I was supposed to pull the set plates off the stock bumper and attach them to the aftermarket bumper, rather than putting bolts through the tabs. Not sure if they'll fit, though.

Just having the studs go through the holes would provide a bit of support...

 

It turns you can't easily remove the set plates from the stock bumper. At least not without drilling some rivets out.

So, I gave up on trying to use them.

I did manage to put a speed nut on each of the middle tab on the bumper (they wouldn't fit on the other tabs).

So, as long as I am only using one bolt on each side, I can install and remove it somewhat easier.

In theory. In practice, it's still a bitch to get a rachet in there.