Hi, first of all pls ignore my username. i have just sold my FC and bought an FD.

I have been doing some searching and would like some feedback on the following suspension mods i have in mind, so just let me know what you think or if there is anything else i should get for awesome handling

Wheels :
Front – 17x9 – Buddy Club P1 QF
Rear – 18x10 – Buddy Club P1 QF

Tyres :
Front – 255/40/17 – Kumho MX
Rear – 295/30/18 – Kumho MX

Suspension :
Coilovers – JIC FLTA2
Sways – Suspension Techniques F & R
Other – Racing Beat front sway bar mount reinforcement brace

Thanks,

Andrew

 

I think the stock R1 suspension with Kumho Victoracers (245/45) and a good alignment handles amazingly well. Last time I took it autorcrossing, I beat every stock car that showed up, including the 4 Z06s in my class. Considering I hadn't autocrossed in 2 years and the tires were full tread, no heat cycle, I would say the car's handling had everything to do with it. If it aint broke, don't fix it.

I use the Victoracers year round. If it doesn't rain or snow and you don't mind buying new tires every 10k miles, they are a good option.

The only time a messed around with a G-tech pro, after 1 lap on the autocross track, it measured 1.18 lateral Gs. That's not steady state cornering, but I can't guess that actual lateral G's can be that far off.

 

If you don't have one get a strut tower brace. Removes the slight bit of understeer the car seems to have.

 

it all depends on what you want to do with the car, drag ,drift,autox, or street n' daily.
we all want them to be daily no matter what else we use it for.

 

[QUOTE=Dan Stevenson] If it aint broke, don't fix it.
QUOTE]


My sig begs to differ, if it showed up....

 

yeah daily driven, drag racing (although with different rear wheels and tyres), and circuit (main focus - @ www.queenslandraceway.com.au )

no drifting, no autox.

also, if it aint broke dont fix it - agreed, but there is always something better

 

if it aint broke, fix it until it is! <--its an engineering thing...

 

Re-drag dont forget to get some spares, rear diff, etc if you are running slicks

 

just an opinion since i've never run tires that wide in back, but won't that give you a considerable amount of understeer? I guess with really wide rears you can romp on the gas more coming out of turns, but I don't get why people run this width unless they have a decently modded FD. I don't have any traction issues with 275s in the back, honestly it almost sticks too much for my taste.

on a different note you would probably get much better responses than mine if you posted this in the supension forum.

 

The suspension techniques sway bars (and now RB front) are boat anchors, heavy solid bars. Go with tri-point std front and RB rear, both are hollow and adjustable.

 

best suspension mod = learning how to drive

 

Do many people run diffirent size rims(17'' front, 18'' back) on this car? I don't remember ever seeing that before.

 

yeah, will definately have spare diffs etc...

the idea of the wider rears is to get the power down. my engine should be pushing 400-450rwhp when complete

kevin - personally i'd prefer solid sways. less stress on the bars

jim - the only reason i was thinking 17's on the front and 18's on the rear is because there are very few 17x10 wheels that are lightweight (well that i can find)

 

If you get the fully adjustable coilovers, be sure to do it right. Have the car corner-weighted and adjust the suspension accordingly. More settings is more settings to mess up, try to avoid that pitfall. Also don't forget about alignment things like caster, camber, toe... They can make a very noticeable difference, as do tire pressures.

If anything, I'd look at 18's in front and 17's in rear. The stiffer sidewalls in front will give a quicker turn-in, while the added sidewall flex in the rear will help keep the back end from breaking loose under acceleration. This is assuming you can find tires that are wide enough in the 17" size. Also, I think you can fit a wider wheel in the rear than 10 inches, but you should double-check that and make sure.

-s-

 

i would go for wider rear wheels, but the really light wheels such as the volk TE37 and the buddy club P1 QF dont go higher than that in 17's (the buddy is 9.5 and the volk is 10)

 

My 10 cents on tires. I have just a few week ago changed mine to Bridgestone Potenza 235/40(recommended to me by 2 specialists) both rare and front becasue I had serious swaying problems especially during hard accelerations and cornering. My FD is bone stock.

The result: I am still trying them out but till now I have still not managed to sway my car even through hard accelerations. Those tires are really made for an RX7. You do not even need them that wide.

 

yes, but not necessarily much less stress. Some numbers for same stiffness hollow bars, based on a 1.25" ST solid bar:

1-5/16" od .850" id, 5% higher stress, 36% less weight

1-3/8" od x 1.03" id, 10% higher stress, 47% less weight

Other issue is too much stiffness with ST front bar. It is more than double the original, where the hollow 1-1/4"-.188" wall M2 and Tripoints (and extinct Eibach hollow front) were about 63% stiffer than the oem bar and adjustable (except eibach).

The more front bar stiffess, the less independent suspension you have.

 

gee i didnt realise it was only a bit less stress. either way, independent suspension isnt my highest priority when i plan to race on proper circuits