Well i just finish swapping out to a new fuel pump aeromotive 340lph, 850cc primaries and 1680cc secondaries and a FPR, now the car wont even start it turns over BARELY wants to fire up. i tried de-flooding the engine removing all spark plugs (clean them till they look out of box) removed the egi fuse and deflooded it, it should start but it still does the same thing, made sure the pump is well set and not coming off the feed line. im out of ideas guys, im so frustrated ive spent alot of money on the car and its been sitting longer then its been on the road, i bought it in july its had 10 miles (around the block) on the chasis im close to selling this =( i have some logs, at my last attempt to turn it over idk if it would help anyone to understand the cause of this problem

thanks for looking over this



(edit) before i swapped out the fuel stuff it started up (just the injectors where maxed)

 

Jump the the battery and try starter fluid.

thewird

 

hey thewird! thanks for the chim, yeah I have a wall plugged battery charger/starter regardless if the battery is at 12.3v the car tries and tries to turn but it doesnt fire up, before i swapped the fuel, it would turn over and id notice that the turbo would try to spin, but now turbo still (no exhaust at all)

 

what setup was on the car previously and did it run ok on that setup?

 

Check for the usual fuel/spark.

thewird

 

@RotaryEvolution: it was the stock fuel, not really the injectors where always over 70% and when id step on it alittle bit, the injectors would climb fast and then my fuel cut setting kicks in!!

@thewird: i quad checked the fuel pump made sure it was pushing fuel , so on the top of the feed and return i unplugged the feed and made my sister turn the key ON, starts squirting fuel like crazy, also when i tell her to turn the car to ON FPR jumps to 40 then drops down to 0, untill the car starts to turn

 

Check for spark, then try starter fluid. What are you using as a map right now?

thewird

 

double check your injector wiring. generally problems like this are related to a faulty injector clip or injector wiring solder/crimp(engine trying to start on one rotor). you can backprobe the injector wires at the ECU, they should all be near 12v with the key to on.

try the starter fluid thewird recommended and see if it responds, indicating you may have one rotor running with no fuel.

 

one other thing i have seen with 850 primaries is they are not sealed properly to the primary rail, the 850's are a shorter injector not designed to be used as primaries. if they are not sealed the 850's will allow fuel to push into the intake manifold through the non sealed lower portion of the injector through the rail, which would also explain why the pressure is dropping to 0 immediately after the priming sequence is completed.

when i install them i simply double up the lower injector o-ring underneath the pintle cap to seal the injector to the lower portion of the rail(another lower injector o-ring).

 

Pressure dropping to zero after fuel pump primes is pretty common place with the Aeromotive FPR's. Some hold pressure, some hold it for a while, others drop immediately.

thewird

 

yes, most aftermarket pumps don't have a check valve but most i rarely see drop to 0 within a few seconds, generally they bleed off slowly within a few minutes time. still suggests to me that the fuel may be getting dumped.

 

hey guys i appreciate the help everytime i refresh and read what you guys have to say i go outside and do as followed, sparks there tried it and i see it sparking, so thats not the issue, now ima see if they are seated properly.

@thewird uhm im using an OLD BDC map idk if i can upload it here but i can get u a mediafire link
BaseMap_8501680_HBPFD3S_ZS_010709.dat

 

Take a picture of the voltages menu on the commander. If you have starter fluid onhand try it.

Ah, I forgot about the pump side. I always assumed it was the regulator since 99% of rx-7's all use the same regulator. That actually makes more sense.

thewird

 

ok checked the primaries clips for voltage with the key ON, both read 12v's ,
i checked every single fuse on the car all work. =(

 

@Rotary, how would i be able to check that heres a shitty picture drawn by the one and only (me) on how i set up the fuel lines, idk if it has anything to do with my issue but here it is

 

UPDATE

well i did an old WD40 trick to it, i stick some WD40 on both of the boost guage and B.O.V nipples on the UIM, the car started ran for like 10 seconds (prob wd40 ran out) then turned off, so atleast now i got an idea, its FUEL RELATED

i want to thank you guys sincerely for chiming in it means alot guys

 

Probably just needs more fuel in the tune. Try running the car with the vacuum line disconnected for the fpr.

thewird

 

that is true, you might have a point alright ill give that a shot right now, did you see the basemap i found for it? i have it linked on one of the post, let me know what you think criticize the poop out of it

 

I'd rather not comment on BDC's maps. Just grab the whole vacuum part of the fuel map and add 10% of fuel and see if that helps.

thewird

 

hes a great guy!, i found em on some really really really old post! and i tried pulling the vacuum line from the FPR still nothing, the wd40 does someone the trick till it burns off! but hey did you see the picture i sorta drew does is it set up right?

 

The fuel hookup looks fine. Try adding 10% of fuel to the whole fuel map, then try 20% etc.

thewird

 

you got it! ill try it tomorrow! i gota do other stuff, thewird it was a pleasure man, you have a great night! ill let you know how it goes tomorrow

 

UPDATE

been doing some hard thinking! when the fuel pump primes i have a 340lph aeromotive fuel pump, i connected it straight to the stock fuel pump feed adapter, i been thinking that maybe when it prines and pushes the fuel threw the lines and makes it to the FPR, by any chance would the fuel be pressured backwards threw the fuel lines and out the adapter? im not sure if the aeromotive comes with a check valve but ima check tomorrow!

 

Lack of a check valve is not related to your problem. That only has to do with when you shut the car off, it continues to hold pressure which isn't important.

thewird

 

how about the conjunction with the metal feed tube and the aeromotive feed side? wouldnt a leak cause that to fail ?