H12 ABS Swap
09-11-09, 04:28 PM
#1
H12 ABS Swap
Started collecting parts for an ABS swap from an H12 GF-FD3S.
I probably wont get around to installing the parts any time soon since the engine bay, etc needs some paint but I figured I'd start a thread where we could toss ideas around and junk.
I have more 2 more units and computers coming so if anyone is looking for them stateside.. I got 'em:
I probably wont get around to installing the parts any time soon since the engine bay, etc needs some paint but I figured I'd start a thread where we could toss ideas around and junk.
I have more 2 more units and computers coming so if anyone is looking for them stateside.. I got 'em:
09-11-09, 05:38 PM
#3
Well a part from being 32bit vs. 16bit and 4 channel vs. 3 channel - i wouldn't think much else would be different from a functionality point of view.
hardware wise, a good deal is different. The early model harnesses DO fit but are *probably* pin'ed incorrectly.
Once I find the H12 manuals I'll know.
My plans are to wire my EMS and ABS computer and build some traction control logic(s) within my EMS so I wanted the 4 channel / newer ABS unit.
hardware wise, a good deal is different. The early model harnesses DO fit but are *probably* pin'ed incorrectly.
Once I find the H12 manuals I'll know.
My plans are to wire my EMS and ABS computer and build some traction control logic(s) within my EMS so I wanted the 4 channel / newer ABS unit.
09-11-09, 11:39 PM
#4
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ive always wanted to do this but the thought of wiring it up kinda put the kibosh on that idea. im staying tuned to see how far you get! 
good luck! if you get it to work i want one
good luck! if you get it to work i want one
09-12-09, 01:47 PM
#6
Well... guess what, the plugs are 90% the same. ;-)
The ABS (9pin) plug and the Power(2 pin) plug are correct but you'd probably need to spend $10 or so in a pin-extractor/de-pin tool and swap 'em around.
I still need to figure out the wiring on the newer unit but its likely not going to be much of a problem. Two things hold me back.. #1 I'm lazy and #2 I need the jspec manuals.
There are auctions I see for the manuals on CD(pdf format) but I do not speak enough Japanese fluently (or type for that matter). If anyone could help with communications...
09-12-09, 01:50 PM
#7
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thats the other thing that stopped me... not being able to read japanese. Also, what about running the separate brake lines to the rear, and are there different sensors from the rear or its the same thing we already have? if you figure this out ill buy one set of your parts with the instructions to put it together. dont mothball this thing so quickly LOL! if the engine bay needs paint, now would be a good time to mess with this thing, as you'll probably scratch it up some trying to put this all together. DOOO ITTTTT
Well... guess what, the plugs are 90% the same. ;-)
The ABS (9pin) plug and the Power(2 pin) plug are correct but you'd probably need to spend $10 or so in a pin-extractor/de-pin tool and swap 'em around.
I still need to figure out the wiring on the newer unit but its likely not going to be much of a problem. Two things hold me back.. #1 I'm lazy and #2 I need the jspec manuals.
There are auctions I see for the manuals on CD(pdf format) but I do not speak enough Japanese fluently (or type for that matter). If anyone could help with communications...
The ABS (9pin) plug and the Power(2 pin) plug are correct but you'd probably need to spend $10 or so in a pin-extractor/de-pin tool and swap 'em around.
I still need to figure out the wiring on the newer unit but its likely not going to be much of a problem. Two things hold me back.. #1 I'm lazy and #2 I need the jspec manuals.
There are auctions I see for the manuals on CD(pdf format) but I do not speak enough Japanese fluently (or type for that matter). If anyone could help with communications...
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09-13-09, 09:47 PM
#10
Here is the Bosch Connector.. The computer wants a 55pin connector.. the one shown here is an 88way connector but it leads ya to the right place.
URL -> Bosch Connector
URL -> Bosch Connector
09-16-09, 10:59 AM
#11
I did manage to pick up a huge harness lot from a 2001/GF-FD3S...
This contains just about everything I need to start manually tracing wires and such.
I removed the ABS unit, lines, brake booster, etc last night - seems the provided stock ABS bracket from the GF-FD3S will work out just fine with slight modifications.
...still learning about running brake lines myself. figured i'll run the rear brakes along the driver's side of the car (vs. up & over the firewall/vin area). it's going to be a loooong & cold winter ;-)
Also replacing my brake stuff with newer parts from the same GF-FD3S
This contains just about everything I need to start manually tracing wires and such.
I removed the ABS unit, lines, brake booster, etc last night - seems the provided stock ABS bracket from the GF-FD3S will work out just fine with slight modifications.
...still learning about running brake lines myself. figured i'll run the rear brakes along the driver's side of the car (vs. up & over the firewall/vin area). it's going to be a loooong & cold winter ;-)
Also replacing my brake stuff with newer parts from the same GF-FD3S
09-16-09, 12:41 PM
#14
FWIW, I would use the newer Cunifer brake lines which are easily bent, and are corrosion-proof.
The copper nickel alloy is DOT approved hard brake line, and the alloy is now being used by Aston Martin, Porsche, etc.
:-) neil
http://www.fedhillusa.com/
The copper nickel alloy is DOT approved hard brake line, and the alloy is now being used by Aston Martin, Porsche, etc.
:-) neil
http://www.fedhillusa.com/
09-16-09, 05:48 PM
#17
you're missing the point - I dont need to *replace* all of that... I simply bought all of that "mess" since I can't seem to find the 2000+ factory service manuals. ...well I just need help buying them really. Anyhow, this harness (or collection of) is uber important for understanding how these components are linked together.
I'm replacing brake booster because i want a clean engine bay & it came from a 2001 FD, should be in great shape (and clean!).
neil.. thank you very much for that tip. very nice timing. ;-)
09-16-09, 09:32 PM
#18
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you're missing the point - I dont need to *replace* all of that... I simply bought all of that "mess" since I can't seem to find the 2000+ factory service manuals. ...well I just need help buying them really. Anyhow, this harness (or collection of) is uber important for understanding how these components are linked together.
I'm replacing brake booster because i want a clean engine bay & it came from a 2001 FD, should be in great shape (and clean!).
neil.. thank you very much for that tip. very nice timing. ;-)
I'm replacing brake booster because i want a clean engine bay & it came from a 2001 FD, should be in great shape (and clean!).
neil.. thank you very much for that tip. very nice timing. ;-)
Is there anything in the FD brake system to the rear which is downstream from the ABS unit like check valves etc? I suppose the manual would list all that. Any difference between the 93 and 99 brake booster (besides being newer and in better shape?) I'm really glad you are undertaking this... it's been something i've been interested in for a long time!! -Heath
09-17-09, 08:36 AM
#19
I don't think there should be anything inline (ieg: check valves) but you're right, the FSM will be the final word on that note. An interesting subject is "brake lines". How on earth do these shops manually fit brake lines on a chassis? Well I know how, just seems like a good deal of work for a less-than-ideal fit (IMO). I am looking at (only looking at this point) cnc tube bending process.
My idea about how the brake lines should run from the rear are pretty simple. I think the two should pair up on the passenger side and follow the underside of the body and head straight up to the abs unit. I am planning on using "service point" to be mounted on the firewall (down low). My lines will probably end up looking a lot like the Mazda lines - just on the other side of the car. Doing this will help free up the clutter from the firewall.
The idea about a cnc'ed tubing bender (for brake lines) is very interesting but i'm not 100% sure that i'd be able to give the proper bends... could always try though! :-)
I didn't notice anything majorly different about the newer brake booster. The clutch & brake line block sit on the other side of the fluids container but other than that... i didn't notice anything. I experienced a brake booster failing (internal boot failure) which ended up filling itself up with fluid. Mine is still in good shape and very low mileage but i really don't want to deal with that again - that might have been a major factor in the decision to remove the older one (hoping it might be an updated part).
I should take delivery of the wiring harnesses and other junk by next Friday which should leave that weekend free to explore the wiring differences.
I can't really explain why I decided to jump on this project. I couldn't sell this to anyone in terms of gain vs. loss or major advantages.. its just a 4 channel ABS system with a 32bit computer. It does mean that the computer is faster so it should be quicker to respond to a situation. But I think the main goal here is upgrading my car with the latest from Mazda. to me, an ideal FD would have been the last model RZ with a factory 20B. I think I would gladly drive it bone stock for years. ...anyhow, that's my long term / long view goal in short. this abs is just part of it. well i'll also be able to do some trick stuff with it once I'm up and going again.
My idea about how the brake lines should run from the rear are pretty simple. I think the two should pair up on the passenger side and follow the underside of the body and head straight up to the abs unit. I am planning on using "service point" to be mounted on the firewall (down low). My lines will probably end up looking a lot like the Mazda lines - just on the other side of the car. Doing this will help free up the clutter from the firewall.
The idea about a cnc'ed tubing bender (for brake lines) is very interesting but i'm not 100% sure that i'd be able to give the proper bends... could always try though! :-)
I didn't notice anything majorly different about the newer brake booster. The clutch & brake line block sit on the other side of the fluids container but other than that... i didn't notice anything. I experienced a brake booster failing (internal boot failure) which ended up filling itself up with fluid. Mine is still in good shape and very low mileage but i really don't want to deal with that again - that might have been a major factor in the decision to remove the older one (hoping it might be an updated part).
I should take delivery of the wiring harnesses and other junk by next Friday which should leave that weekend free to explore the wiring differences.
I can't really explain why I decided to jump on this project. I couldn't sell this to anyone in terms of gain vs. loss or major advantages.. its just a 4 channel ABS system with a 32bit computer. It does mean that the computer is faster so it should be quicker to respond to a situation. But I think the main goal here is upgrading my car with the latest from Mazda. to me, an ideal FD would have been the last model RZ with a factory 20B. I think I would gladly drive it bone stock for years. ...anyhow, that's my long term / long view goal in short. this abs is just part of it. well i'll also be able to do some trick stuff with it once I'm up and going again.
10-03-09, 05:28 PM
#23
Its functional - I have the ABS Computer mostly finished. I've got to double check the ABS Unit/pump wiring once more but I am positive that the swap can be done with minor (re)wiring. I do have a new set of ABS wheel sensors coming from AU. They've got a different part number but it doesn't mean they work differently (i.e. different output signal). What I'm very interested in now is a handle held device to purge the ABS Pump (open/close the valves).... maybe that's another project.
I am 99% lazy BUT I should have a full schematic laid out for the swap in terms of wiring in the next few weeks.
I am 99% lazy BUT I should have a full schematic laid out for the swap in terms of wiring in the next few weeks.
