going from shortblock to fully assembled engine
09-30-08, 11:18 PM
#1
going from shortblock to fully assembled engine
Hey everyone, my shortblock finally arived today, it looks amazing, but I have a few questions, any help is appreciated. First i'll tell you what i've got, and the questions will follow.
My car: 94 R2, greddy single turbo, TEC-3 GT ems and ignition system.
Questions:
1. Where is the best place to get little O ring for the top of the AST.
2. On the stock AST there is an electrical plug screwed into the front, along with a hole where another sensor goes that has a wire sticking out. But on the new AST, its polished, and only has a hole for the sensor with the wire sticking out, not 2 holes like the old one.
3. The car has a stage 4 6 puck ceramic competition clutch & S&R lightened flywheel. The pads on the disk look kind of low, but i don't have anything to compare it to, how do I tell if I should go ahead and get a new one, as I've already got it apart?
4. I have an SR Motorsports flywheel, which looks like the contact portion with the clutch disk is replaceable, the new engine came with a SR Motorsports flywheel but the contact portion does not look to be replaceable, but it is brand new, I guess as long as I keep them both it doesnt matter much, but what do you think?
5. I use premix because of the TEC 3, but the car still has the OMP, its just not plugged in, should I just order a block off plate? If not, I need to order an O ring to re-install the OMP so it doesnt leak oil. Where is the best place to get a block off plate?
6. The motor is streetported, 3mm apex seals, single turbo, what spark plugs do you recommend?
7. For little places where the turbo oil return nipple bolts to the engine, is it safe to use the Orange silicone gasket sealant?
I'll probably have more questions, but this will get me moving at least. Thanks in advance.
My car: 94 R2, greddy single turbo, TEC-3 GT ems and ignition system.
Questions:
1. Where is the best place to get little O ring for the top of the AST.
2. On the stock AST there is an electrical plug screwed into the front, along with a hole where another sensor goes that has a wire sticking out. But on the new AST, its polished, and only has a hole for the sensor with the wire sticking out, not 2 holes like the old one.
3. The car has a stage 4 6 puck ceramic competition clutch & S&R lightened flywheel. The pads on the disk look kind of low, but i don't have anything to compare it to, how do I tell if I should go ahead and get a new one, as I've already got it apart?
4. I have an SR Motorsports flywheel, which looks like the contact portion with the clutch disk is replaceable, the new engine came with a SR Motorsports flywheel but the contact portion does not look to be replaceable, but it is brand new, I guess as long as I keep them both it doesnt matter much, but what do you think?
5. I use premix because of the TEC 3, but the car still has the OMP, its just not plugged in, should I just order a block off plate? If not, I need to order an O ring to re-install the OMP so it doesnt leak oil. Where is the best place to get a block off plate?
6. The motor is streetported, 3mm apex seals, single turbo, what spark plugs do you recommend?
7. For little places where the turbo oil return nipple bolts to the engine, is it safe to use the Orange silicone gasket sealant?
I'll probably have more questions, but this will get me moving at least. Thanks in advance.
09-30-08, 11:57 PM
#2
Ok, i did a little more searching and I have the aluminum SR flywheel on the old engine, so i think i will stick with that as it is lighter. Still not sure if i should replace the 6puck disk yet though.
Also, i looked around at block off plates for the OMP, the the bolts that secure the oil lines to the top of the block just screw all the way in if I remove the lines when i put the block off plate on or do i have to buy new bolts that are shorter?
Also, i looked around at block off plates for the OMP, the the bolts that secure the oil lines to the top of the block just screw all the way in if I remove the lines when i put the block off plate on or do i have to buy new bolts that are shorter?
10-01-08, 02:45 PM
#3
Can anyone help? it will be much appreciated.
Also, I will just be leaving the OMP attached to the engine, instead of using a Block off plate, since the little shaft in the engine slides back in a little ways, how do i know if I have the OMP tooth aligned correctly in the slot of the shaft? or does this not really matter?
Also, I will just be leaving the OMP attached to the engine, instead of using a Block off plate, since the little shaft in the engine slides back in a little ways, how do i know if I have the OMP tooth aligned correctly in the slot of the shaft? or does this not really matter?
10-02-08, 05:36 AM
#4
1 & 2 The AST does not have any o-rings or sensors. From your description you are talking about the thermostat housing. The one with the two sensor holes is from an automatic the one with only the low coolant sensor is a manual trans.
3 & 4 It's up to you, a new disc is about $100, so replace it if you think it is iffy.
5. Block it off if it is not in use http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_FD_omp_bop.htm
6. NGK 9's are inexpensive and easily available, but it depends on the boost you plan on running
7. Use a gasket or Ultra Grey
3 & 4 It's up to you, a new disc is about $100, so replace it if you think it is iffy.
5. Block it off if it is not in use http://www.banzai-racing.com/products_FD_omp_bop.htm
6. NGK 9's are inexpensive and easily available, but it depends on the boost you plan on running
7. Use a gasket or Ultra Grey
10-02-08, 07:55 AM
#5
Thank you,
1&2, you're right, it is the thermostat housing, but my car is a manual, and has wiring connections for both sensors. I have an aftermarket water temp gauge on the a-pillar, maybe this is why they switched to the automatic version? The new engine has the thermostat housing with only 1 sensor.
3 & 4, I would like to get just a new disc, but I've heard this can cause problems. Some say the pressure plate needs to go at the same time, any info on this?
5. Thanks for the link - I'll order today
6. My plugs number is NGK-R BUR9EQ T, is this the 9 you are talking about?
7. What is the difference between Ultra Grey and orange? looks like people use them just about interchangably.
1&2, you're right, it is the thermostat housing, but my car is a manual, and has wiring connections for both sensors. I have an aftermarket water temp gauge on the a-pillar, maybe this is why they switched to the automatic version? The new engine has the thermostat housing with only 1 sensor.
3 & 4, I would like to get just a new disc, but I've heard this can cause problems. Some say the pressure plate needs to go at the same time, any info on this?
5. Thanks for the link - I'll order today
6. My plugs number is NGK-R BUR9EQ T, is this the 9 you are talking about?
7. What is the difference between Ultra Grey and orange? looks like people use them just about interchangably.
10-02-08, 08:29 AM
#6
3 & 4, I would like to get just a new disc, but I've heard this can cause problems. Some say the pressure plate needs to go at the same time, any info on this?
7. What is the difference between Ultra Grey and orange? looks like people use them just about interchangably.
7. What is the difference between Ultra Grey and orange? looks like people use them just about interchangably.
Look up the differences on permatex.com
10-02-08, 10:51 AM
#7
The only problem is that i dont know the manufacturer. The only lettering on the pressure plate is 4H23 on one section and 544000 on another. The pressure plate is painted black. The only marking on the disk is CC, except the first C is backwards.
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10-02-08, 11:06 AM
#8
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Last edited by Smitter; 10-02-08 at 11:09 AM.
10-06-08, 06:20 PM
#11
oil pan/motor mount issue
My rebuilt engine just came with short bolts through the oil pan where the motor mounts would be. I unbolted them and the passenger side corner popped out a little, check out the pic, does this mean when i bolt it back up with the motor mount it wont seal?
If i do have to take it off and re-seal it, do i have to use the paper gasket inbetween the pieces and sealant on both sides? or can i just use "Great Stuff" without a gasket in the middle. I can't really afford an oil pan brace at this time, what will seal it up if i have to re seal, or can i just bolt the motor mounts up?
the bad corner
the good corner
If i do have to take it off and re-seal it, do i have to use the paper gasket inbetween the pieces and sealant on both sides? or can i just use "Great Stuff" without a gasket in the middle. I can't really afford an oil pan brace at this time, what will seal it up if i have to re seal, or can i just bolt the motor mounts up?
the bad corner
the good corner
10-06-08, 07:22 PM
#12
My rebuilt engine just came with short bolts through the oil pan where the motor mounts would be. I unbolted them and the passenger side corner popped out a little, check out the pic, does this mean when i bolt it back up with the motor mount it wont seal?
If i do have to take it off and re-seal it, do i have to use the paper gasket inbetween the pieces and sealant on both sides? or can i just use "Great Stuff" without a gasket in the middle. I can't really afford an oil pan brace at this time, what will seal it up if i have to re seal, or can i just bolt the motor mounts up?
the bad corner
the good corner
If i do have to take it off and re-seal it, do i have to use the paper gasket inbetween the pieces and sealant on both sides? or can i just use "Great Stuff" without a gasket in the middle. I can't really afford an oil pan brace at this time, what will seal it up if i have to re seal, or can i just bolt the motor mounts up?
the bad corner
the good corner
Read this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/mythbusters-time-oil-pan-motor-mounts-488739/
10-09-08, 11:22 PM
#14
Ok, so i resealed the oil pan, hopefully its good.
The engine and tranny are back in the car, just put the PPF on tonight and the driveshaft. The engine is all hooked up. I have to put together the inside of the car and fill everything up.
One thing i see that i overlooked when going back through the manual is that i forgot to push the clutch release fork and connect the clutch release collar to the clutch cover. I've never done this before and i'm not really sure how to do it.
The engine and tranny are back in the car, just put the PPF on tonight and the driveshaft. The engine is all hooked up. I have to put together the inside of the car and fill everything up.
One thing i see that i overlooked when going back through the manual is that i forgot to push the clutch release fork and connect the clutch release collar to the clutch cover. I've never done this before and i'm not really sure how to do it.
10-10-08, 12:59 AM
#15
94 Single Turbo FD
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all u gotta do, using a pry bar or long screw driver is reach up throught the inspection plate and pry the clutch fork forward engaging the release bearing to the pressure plate. really quite simple. it will lock in place then u can function the clutch.
10-10-08, 11:52 AM
#16
Ok, i'm not sure if i've made a huge mistake or not. The engine and tranny are in the car now. but when i installed the tranny to the engine, i left that little collar in the clutch cover and then just pushed the tranny in and bolted it up. now that its in the car, do i press the fork to the front of the car? i can move it backwards easily with my hand but not forward, i just want to make sure before i pry and break something.
10-10-08, 01:15 PM
#18
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Ok, i'm not sure if i've made a huge mistake or not. The engine and tranny are in the car now. but when i installed the tranny to the engine, i left that little collar in the clutch cover and then just pushed the tranny in and bolted it up. now that its in the car, do i press the fork to the front of the car? i can move it backwards easily with my hand but not forward, i just want to make sure before i pry and break something.
10-10-08, 03:16 PM
#20
94 Single Turbo FD
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throught the inspection plate cover in the bottom of the bell housing is where u reach in from. pry the fork forward to mate the release bearing with the clutch. the fork is spring loaded, so if it stays engaged with the clutch u know u have it,
c'mon man just go do it already, its really simple
c'mon man just go do it already, its really simple
10-11-08, 12:26 AM
#21
Ok, did the clutch, started the car, idled for about 20 minutes around 19k rpm, then the temp shot up, is this because not enough antifreeze in the system yet? I shut the car off, maybe too much air in the system, hope its ok.
stupid oil pan is leaking, i think I must have 2 steel motor mounts so the one side doesnt have the little spacer thing, its the driver side rear leaking, how much does a shop charge to do it typically?
Anyone else have heat issues on start up?
stupid oil pan is leaking, i think I must have 2 steel motor mounts so the one side doesnt have the little spacer thing, its the driver side rear leaking, how much does a shop charge to do it typically?
Anyone else have heat issues on start up?
10-11-08, 11:01 AM
#23
I've only been able to put about 5 quarts of coolant in so far, does this mean there is a ton of air in the system? will this work to purge it if i let the car sit and idle?
Also, this is the oil leak from the oil pan, just overnight. dripping from the driver side motor mount area. i noticed the old oil pan actually had an extra hole drilled in it for an extra small bolt in that corner, which both blocks actually have holes for already. does this go back to my steel motor mount issue?
Also, this is the oil leak from the oil pan, just overnight. dripping from the driver side motor mount area. i noticed the old oil pan actually had an extra hole drilled in it for an extra small bolt in that corner, which both blocks actually have holes for already. does this go back to my steel motor mount issue?
10-11-08, 12:17 PM
#24
94 Single Turbo FD
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Coolant capacity 8.8L/ 9.3 US qt (page E-6 of the Work shop manual)
you barely have half the capacity of the coolant in the car
take the coolant hose off the throttle body (small hose that comes off rear iron) to let the coolant system vent as u fill it. once the coolant level is at the top of the fill spout, cover the spout with the palm of your hand and pump the upper rad hose, then add more coolant, repeat until u get coolant coming out the hose removed off the throttle body. make sure to check the coolant level after the car has ran a few times and top up the coolant as necessary. if u fill the overflow resevoir this should help also. dont forget to put the hose back on the tb
your oil leak looks pretty substantial, did u use sealant (the good stuff) on the bolts for the motor mounts? damnit damnit damnit
you barely have half the capacity of the coolant in the car
take the coolant hose off the throttle body (small hose that comes off rear iron) to let the coolant system vent as u fill it. once the coolant level is at the top of the fill spout, cover the spout with the palm of your hand and pump the upper rad hose, then add more coolant, repeat until u get coolant coming out the hose removed off the throttle body. make sure to check the coolant level after the car has ran a few times and top up the coolant as necessary. if u fill the overflow resevoir this should help also. dont forget to put the hose back on the tb
your oil leak looks pretty substantial, did u use sealant (the good stuff) on the bolts for the motor mounts? damnit damnit damnit
10-11-08, 01:17 PM
#25
Yes, I did use the Good Stuff, cleaned extremely well, its got to be that weird motor mount thing i've seen mentioned.
The coolant is full now, its idleing at 1500 rpm, 190 degrees steady. took it around the block. literally no power below 2500 rpm, then its like something kicks in and it sounds different and power just turns on, is this because the turbo (T78) has finally made positive pressure? it backfires like crazy, think its the tune for the old stock port engine messing it up now that I have a street port? i'm keeping the rpm below 4k and not boosting at all really, i let off when it goes past 0. can the backfire hurt the car?
The coolant is full now, its idleing at 1500 rpm, 190 degrees steady. took it around the block. literally no power below 2500 rpm, then its like something kicks in and it sounds different and power just turns on, is this because the turbo (T78) has finally made positive pressure? it backfires like crazy, think its the tune for the old stock port engine messing it up now that I have a street port? i'm keeping the rpm below 4k and not boosting at all really, i let off when it goes past 0. can the backfire hurt the car?