Going to dyno... what is ideal AFR
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Going to dyno... what is ideal AFR
I have just for reference:
Greddy FMIC
Apexi air intake
HKS SSQV
Downpipe, midpipe(no cat), catback
Greddy E-01
Greddy E-manage
and other reliability mods.
I want to tune for 8 psi low and 15psi high boost. Once I get the dyno and afr printout from the dynos wideband, what afr should i shoot for when adjusting the injector duty cycles? Also, should I mess with the ignition timing?
Greddy FMIC
Apexi air intake
HKS SSQV
Downpipe, midpipe(no cat), catback
Greddy E-01
Greddy E-manage
and other reliability mods.
I want to tune for 8 psi low and 15psi high boost. Once I get the dyno and afr printout from the dynos wideband, what afr should i shoot for when adjusting the injector duty cycles? Also, should I mess with the ignition timing?
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1. You don't have the fuel system to be supporting 15 psi.
2. The E-manage is a very poor choice for modding an FD. I don't think you can even accomplish boosting over stock levels with that ecu.
3. AFRs depend on how conservative you are and what kind of fuel you will be running. To be conservative, you would want to run around 11:1 to 11.3:1 above 10 psi.
4. The stock ecu has conservative timing. You should not need to change it. And adjusting timing without really knowing what you are doing is a sure way to lose a motor.
2. The E-manage is a very poor choice for modding an FD. I don't think you can even accomplish boosting over stock levels with that ecu.
3. AFRs depend on how conservative you are and what kind of fuel you will be running. To be conservative, you would want to run around 11:1 to 11.3:1 above 10 psi.
4. The stock ecu has conservative timing. You should not need to change it. And adjusting timing without really knowing what you are doing is a sure way to lose a motor.
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Originally Posted by rynberg
1. You don't have the fuel system to be supporting 15 psi.
2. The E-manage is a very poor choice for modding an FD. I don't think you can even accomplish boosting over stock levels with that ecu.
3. AFRs depend on how conservative you are and what kind of fuel you will be running. To be conservative, you would want to run around 11:1 to 11.3:1 above 10 psi.
4. The stock ecu has conservative timing. You should not need to change it. And adjusting timing without really knowing what you are doing is a sure way to lose a motor.
2. The E-manage is a very poor choice for modding an FD. I don't think you can even accomplish boosting over stock levels with that ecu.
3. AFRs depend on how conservative you are and what kind of fuel you will be running. To be conservative, you would want to run around 11:1 to 11.3:1 above 10 psi.
4. The stock ecu has conservative timing. You should not need to change it. And adjusting timing without really knowing what you are doing is a sure way to lose a motor.
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Originally Posted by 13b-TT
Why wouldn't you be able to boost over stock levels?
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Originally Posted by rynberg
The E-manage is designed for MAF systems, not MAP-based systems like the FD. The FD stock ecu has an overboost fuel cut. The E-manage does nothing to eliminate this, so you can't boost over stock levels. Why did you buy an ecu without doing any research first?
Since so many cars run the MAF sensors, why did Mazda opt for the maped version? Could one convert the Fd over to a MAF setup to run the E-manage? Wouldn't an MAF set-up read the incomming air better for more precised fuel delivery than the maped set-up? I always wondered this.
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Originally Posted by t-von
The question is why would you go through the trouble when an $800 PFC plugs right in and works better anyway.
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Originally Posted by rynberg
There is a very long and thorough thread on this topic in the archives.
The question is why would you go through the trouble when an $800 PFC plugs right in and works better anyway.
The question is why would you go through the trouble when an $800 PFC plugs right in and works better anyway.
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I have taken this directly from the e-manage manual (Air Flow Meter 1 - Used for Hotwire, flap type airflow meters, or MAP sensors). I have the Injector and Ignition harness properly installed, so I can change the Injector duty cycles and not have to do it the conventional way of adjusting MAF signal (which the rx-7 doesnt have any way). As for fuel cut, how specificly does the ecu cut the fuel? by setting all injector duty cycles to 0%? Cant I just get a fuel cut controller or w/e it is?
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