glowing downpipe?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
glowing downpipe?
im not sure but i recently put a downpipe on and when warming up it starts glowing and getting pretty red. Exhaust tempreature seems too hot but im not sure if that is because there's no cats or is there a bigger problem?
#2
RX7FD3S
iTrader: (3)
its strange that the downpipe turns red during warm up. but usually a exhaust temp too high = engine running lean on air/fuel ratio. u might have dirty injector or clogged fuel filter. unless u bought a used ecu that the tuning was set for another car that has different setup.
#7
Full Member
We Just Fixed A Customers Car. His Manifold Was Glowing On The Front Rotor Exhaust Outlet. I Sent The Injectors To Rc Engineering And One Of The Secondary's Was Dripping! Problem Solved. If I Can Help Give Me A Call
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A lean condition won't cause this, a RICH condition will. If you're running too rich, fuel will end up burning up in the downpipe, causing it to glow red. If your timing is too retarded, the same thing will happen. Stock fuel and timing maps are set to exactly these condtions to heat both the precat and main cat.
#10
don't race, don't need to
Accelerated Warm Up has a fuel dump cycle to heat the pre-cats (which are of course gone by now, but the CPU doesn't know that ). This takes place ~30 seconds after startup, and contributes to the rough idle many experience upon startup. As the car warms up, the fuel is leaned out, idle quality smooths, and downpipe stops glowing. Scared hell out of me first few times I saw it. Happens less in warm temps, hard to determine if this is the water temp sensor, outside air temp sensor, fuel temp sensor, or intake air temp sensor controlling this... I vote outside air temp, located in the ECU itself. Hmm..
#11
It wasn't me!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Cayman Islands
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RX-7projectRX7
A lean condition won't cause this, a RICH condition will. If you're running too rich, fuel will end up burning up in the downpipe, causing it to glow red. If your timing is too retarded, the same thing will happen. Stock fuel and timing maps are set to exactly these condtions to heat both the precat and main cat.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Wisconsin, Milwaukee
Posts: 453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More fuel actually actually lowers the engine temp,this is why top fuel dragster run so cool. The leaner the car get the hotter it gets. The DP, I dont believe that it shold be glowing right after start up, mine glows quite red after some laps on the track, or some spearited driving around town. If you had cats on the car i would say they are mostlikely becoming cloged, but without the cats I would be looking at the ingectors first.
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have 3 inch exhaust and a greddy bov. Im not driving it till i have a pfc but i just start it up once in a while so that it just doesnt sit there
#14
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by Indian
Bro, you have some **** to sort out when it comes to a/f. Even carb guys know that red hot mani is lean. WTF??!?!?!
Check all your grounds, and make sure your injectors are working properly. Wouldnt hurt to throw a new O2 sensor in there as well. Maybe your air intake temp sensor, and the water temp sensor (the one for the ecu). Those all contribute to the afr's of the engine.
#15
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Exactly - hot exhaust can be from either unburned fuel burning in the exhaust, or hot egts due to near-stoich or lean burn in the combustion chamber. Somewhere in the middle is the rich level that makes for the coolest EGTs.
I was getting a slightly glowing DP during the warmup of my car, and I recently learned that I had a dripping primary. I orginally thought it ran that rich due to the warmup cycle, but I no longer believe that's true.
Dave
I was getting a slightly glowing DP during the warmup of my car, and I recently learned that I had a dripping primary. I orginally thought it ran that rich due to the warmup cycle, but I no longer believe that's true.
Dave
#16
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Indian
Bro, you have some **** to sort out when it comes to a/f. Even carb guys know that red hot mani is lean. WTF??!?!?!
I'm only an ASE master tech, maybe I don't know what I'm talking about.
#17
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check all your grounds, and make sure your injectors are working properly. Wouldnt hurt to throw a new O2 sensor in there as well. Maybe your air intake temp sensor, and the water temp sensor (the one for the ecu). Those all contribute to the afr's of the engine.[/QUOTE]
could you tell me how i could check my injectors, or send me a link to a thread, i recently put a new o2 sensor in so i doubt its that
could you tell me how i could check my injectors, or send me a link to a thread, i recently put a new o2 sensor in so i doubt its that
#18
could you tell me how i could check my injectors, or send me a link to a thread, i recently put a new o2 sensor in so i doubt its that
#19
Temple of Cornd0g
Originally Posted by Rmagic13b
could you tell me how i could check my injectors, or send me a link to a thread, i recently put a new o2 sensor in so i doubt its that
Don't pull your injectors until you have new injector seals/gaskets in hand; do not reuse the old seals. Read the FSM, pick up a wrench, and get after things.
#20
Moderator
iTrader: (7)
Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
If you have a manual, check through section F. I believe the only way they describe testing injectors is to yank out he fuel rail. After shutting off fuel to the rail durring testing, no more than one drop per 5 min IIRC.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 12-17-05 at 08:31 PM.
#21
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
alright..if you guys have any recommendations for any rotary shops in oregon please tell. I know of hayes rotary in washington but if there's one in oregon i would much rather go there.
#24
Originally Posted by Cgotto6
Haynes was the worst shop in the history of shops. They have been shut down, luckily. Look up Pineapple Racing. Theyre in oregon somewhere.
If you are getting your injectors cleaned, I recommend Witchhunter performance. The dudes great, and he knows what hes doin.
If you are getting your injectors cleaned, I recommend Witchhunter performance. The dudes great, and he knows what hes doin.
#25
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
Originally Posted by Bad_Karma7
I second that on Witchhunter, Gordon is one hell of a nice guy. He gets his o rings (which are viton) custom made to fit perfectly. Heard a rumor that some companies don't use viton because the alternatives are more cost effective. Give him a call... Witchhunter