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Getting parts for auto to manual swap, but work question?

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Old 06-13-05, 09:39 AM
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Getting parts for auto to manual swap, but work question?

I will have access to a pit, which is where you can roll the car over an opening and be able to work on it from below. Would you guys say this would be better to do when pulling the tranny and reinstalling the new one rather than on jackstands? Only problem would be is I only have access to this pit for 10 days. If I work 3 hours a day will I be able to pull the swap off in time? I have 2 people working with me. Thanks guys.
Old 06-13-05, 11:23 AM
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if you have all the parts...the swap won't take 10days.

could take 30 hours.

I suggest you modify your harness before the 10 days start.
Old 06-13-05, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dubulup
if you have all the parts...the swap won't take 10days.

could take 30 hours.

I suggest you modify your harness before the 10 days start.

Only if I keep the auto harness correct?
Old 06-13-05, 04:51 PM
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Also does the dash have to be removed for the swap and the engine lifted or dropped?
Old 06-13-05, 04:56 PM
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Also here is my parts list so I have every single part I need when the 10 days start. I do not want to leave anything out.

shifter
clutch Line
master cylinder
slave cylinder
clutch release fork
clutch master gasket
hard lines
clutch
flywheel
tranny
starter
driveshaft
pedal assembly
4.10 gear
Tranny fluid
pliot bearing seal
shifter bushing

Can you guys tell me specifically what bolts and seals I am going to need so I can get them now.

Did I leave anything else out?
Old 06-13-05, 09:14 PM
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Bolts and seals...come'awn dex, that's the modifing game. replace seals you see, and need replacing and use all mounting locations for everything else. Right off the bat, you could rebuild the slave cylinder (malloy probably has a kit)...

brake fluid

the motor might be easier to mate with the tranny, if the mounts are loosened and the motor tilted back a little...so remove IC pipes and any hardware holds the engine from tilting (not sure how this trick will work with stock twins)

Did you buy a new manual trans engine harness? I believe some connectors have to be spliced from the auto harness to the manual engine harness (inside the cockpit)...it's been awhile since I wired this mod.

Using the stock clutch and flywheel? great time to upgrade...although I'm not sure how hard it will be to balance the rear counter weight???

Got clutch switches?

If you can, work more than 3 hours a day.

A pit might be hard to lift the tranny over your head and mate with the engine...bench pressing the tranny could be easier
Old 06-14-05, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dubulup
Bolts and seals...come'awn dex, that's the modifing game. replace seals you see, and need replacing and use all mounting locations for everything else. Right off the bat, you could rebuild the slave cylinder (malloy probably has a kit)...

brake fluid

the motor might be easier to mate with the tranny, if the mounts are loosened and the motor tilted back a little...so remove IC pipes and any hardware holds the engine from tilting (not sure how this trick will work with stock twins)

Did you buy a new manual trans engine harness? I believe some connectors have to be spliced from the auto harness to the manual engine harness (inside the cockpit)...it's been awhile since I wired this mod.

Using the stock clutch and flywheel? great time to upgrade...although I'm not sure how hard it will be to balance the rear counter weight???

Got clutch switches?

If you can, work more than 3 hours a day.

A pit might be hard to lift the tranny over your head and mate with the engine...bench pressing the tranny could be easier
Well I will be upgrading everything and getting everything rebuilt, got to do it right the first time. I am not going to use the pit as I think it will be tough considering how far it will have to drop and be put back in. I think ramps will do. I need to get clutch switches, the bellhousing bolts, some other things.
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