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Old 02-14-05, 05:24 AM
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Boost Question

Would a boost leak from a coupling cause the secondary turbo not to spool up?


I would get 7 psi of boost untill 4500 RPM then it dwindles away to nothing.



I found the y-pipe to I/C coupling had a good size rip.


could this be the whole cause of my boost problem?

Last edited by Nick13B; 02-14-05 at 05:29 AM.
Old 02-14-05, 05:29 AM
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yes but you wont really know until you repair it. you may have other boost leaks or your turbos may be waning. my money is on this being the main problem
Old 02-14-05, 05:35 AM
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well I did a temp repair to it a month ago , and when i went to start the car it wouldn't crank up, so I push started it ,popped the clutch, and it cranked up, once it was warm....i hit the gas it jumped to ten psi then i heard a wierd fart noise because my temp repair gave out haha. it felt like black and white though compared to the usual feel of the take off


so i just had to ask, because today im gonna go get it really fixed haha


I hope they sell 2.75 IC couplings at avandced auto parts


I really hope it fixes it because i have already checked all the vacuum lines.
Old 02-14-05, 08:12 AM
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IIRC, the secondary will NOT come on until there is ~8 psi of primary...

So that should be it.
Old 02-14-05, 08:54 AM
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If you don't get an OE Mazda coupler, get silicone.

http://www.atpturbo.com
http://www.hightempsilicone.com
http://www.turboengineering.com

Also, go ahead and spend the extra couple of bucks on some decent SS t-bolt clamps.

Last edited by broken93; 02-14-05 at 09:23 AM. Reason: fixed bad URL
Old 02-14-05, 09:21 AM
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I'll put it this way - you won't be able to troubleshoot the problem until you get the leak fixed, period. A boost leak is bad all the way around.

If you need something quick to fix it, bust out your local yellow pages and look for hydraulic hose and/or rubber supply shops. They will typically have silicone hose - they call it turbo sleeve, usually. It will be thin wall and orange, but it WILL work - been there, done that.

But, if you can wait a bit, order a quality coupler.

BTW, one of Broken's links is bad - it's http://www.hightempsilicone.com - that guy is on the forum, and really makes quality stuff at a fair price.

Dale
Old 02-14-05, 09:34 AM
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you need help quickly; i have no idea how you would last this long with out repairing your fd's boost problem. 7 pounds of boost? haha. i do reccomend rechecking all of your silicone hoses once more, and also repairing that hose that you said was cracked.
Old 02-14-05, 11:18 AM
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Update:
went to a parts store to pick up a coupling they had none so tomorrow im going to the home depot to get one.

another update : tried to start the FD, all it does is click. hooked up jumper cables still just clicks, did this a month ago, had to push it and pop the clutch to get her started. any ideas?



PS Duct tape would be a good temp fix
Old 02-14-05, 11:24 AM
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Thanks for everyones ideas guys.

and the links.


they are alot cheaper then at rx7store.net 13.50 a coupler lmao .


will silicone work on all the couplers? or does rubber work on some?
Old 02-14-05, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Nick13B
Update:
went to a parts store to pick up a coupling they had none so tomorrow im going to the home depot to get one.

another update : tried to start the FD, all it does is click. hooked up jumper cables still just clicks, did this a month ago, had to push it and pop the clutch to get her started. any ideas?



PS Duct tape would be a good temp fix
Check your starter and then check the clutch switch.
Old 02-14-05, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
Check your starter and then check the clutch switch.

well my friend did bang on the starter with a hammer, no rattling on anything, car still would not start....where is the clutch switch located.


if the clutch switch was bad, would I still be able to get the starter solenoid to click?
Old 02-14-05, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick13B
Update:
went to a parts store to pick up a coupling they had none so tomorrow im going to the home depot to get one.

another update : tried to start the FD, all it does is click. hooked up jumper cables still just clicks, did this a month ago, had to push it and pop the clutch to get her started. any ideas?



PS Duct tape would be a good temp fix
Well, to hold a burst coupler, you'd want to put the tape on the inside, so that the pressure pushes the tape into the cut, not off of it. But that would be Bad because if the tape comes loose, it will shoot into either the intercooler or into your engine

So if a couple of outside wraps of good quality duct tape didn't do it, just quit trying. Wait for the new coupler.

Dave
Old 02-14-05, 12:15 PM
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I used silcone tape when I first temp fixed it lol
Old 02-14-05, 12:17 PM
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I used silicone tape (only sticks to itself) when I first temp fixed it lol


not very smart on my part
Old 02-14-05, 12:43 PM
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damm i cant belive you still have that coupler on there. get that thing fixed
Old 02-14-05, 07:24 PM
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i dont think that there is any problem with your turbos anymore, yet i think that it is a mechanical problem.
Old 02-14-05, 08:18 PM
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I tried using duct tape for a temporary fix on my lower intercooler hose a long time ago. It lasted for all of about 2 seconds under boost, literally. It melted almost instantly.

Last edited by poss; 02-14-05 at 08:23 PM.
Old 02-15-05, 08:44 AM
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airn i tried calling you, i seen your car at work when i had to drop off some j boxes for you guys to rivet.


was it 100 MPH duct tape
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