i have a few questions.....


if i blow my engine at 75k.... and i rebuild it would it be just like a new engine? or would it be kinda of the same ****?

also. can a rotary engine run on one rotor? reason y i ask is because every time i start my engine it vibrates a lot and i notice a lot of smoke coming out of the exhaust. some times white and some times black, and if u rev it up a little it shoots out the smoke and then it kicks in and runs normal again

what do u guys think it could be ? im stumped over here and ive never dealt with issues like these.


please help

 

A rebuild can range from shitty to better than factory compression and performance. Just lke anything else, it depends on the quality of wormanship and the budget.

They can run on one rotor. When is the last time you put plugs in? Has it been flooded out before?

 

Unless you use all new parts, it's not going to be "like a new engine". FWIW, an engine with all new parts:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=MZTX-TT-1F00

 

i did my plugs last month.....along with the wires. the old plugs were burning nice and they were nice and dry when i took them out. and no there was no flooding around here hahaha what do you think could be causing this problem?

 

Not flooded like water! Hes talking about fuel like if you pressed the gas pedal while starting and fouled a plug aka FLOODED the engine with fuel!

Does the smoke stay when the car warms up or does it go away? do you have a vacum gauge whats it read? any modifications on the car?

It will run on 1 rotor, but when I did it the car would not idle unless you gave it gas and when you tried to move it you knew it didnt want to go anywhere

 

well wen i go and start it i know not to push on the gas so im not flooding the engine, BUT the exhaust fumes do smell rich in fuel so maybe there is flooding, but why would it be happening?

what happens is when i start it the car starts at a very low idle almost as if it was running on one rotor, then u'll hear it try to kick in but it wont, after about a min. or so it sounds like the 2nd rotor kicked in and starts up, and everything is fine from there one thing i want to add is that my voltage reading from my pfc is reading 15.1 v......why is that so high?

no i have no vaccum gauge and as far as mods i have IC, IC piping, intake, exhuast, power fc and commander, pullies, vaccum lines,

 

do u have the air pump removed? if so do u have the o2 system setup properly on the pfc? not that i know how to set it up but i know with air pump removed u will be rich at idle, causing your problem.

 

You don't have to press the throttle for it to flood. It's caused by poor compression most of the time.

Fouled plugs can still trigger a timing light/ignition tester, since they are still arcing, just not at the proper part of the plugs.

I would replace the plugs or bead blast and clean them and see how it runs. It sounds like you're getting inconsistent ignition.

Double check voltage at the battery with a multimeter while the engine is running and see what that says.

 

hmmm i did remove it the pump and i did not set it up like that. does anyone know how? and how does the air pump effect my fueling system?

 

You could have a sealing problem. A digital compression check would be a good start. You could also have a leaky injector/s. A vaccuume reading would be good, you can see when a motor is running on one rotor.

 

my pfc reads 15 volts when the car is running and 11.3 when its off...


when the engine is running on one rotor, where should i look for a leaky injector?

 

You don't look, you do a leak down test. It sounds more like ignition to me.

Check the voltage at the battery. At this point you sound confused... maybe it's time for a professional to look at it.

 

well the car is in the shop today, they are doing a tune up and checking for leaks and what not, but im a little confused with my battery voltage, my PFC reads 15.1 volts.....isnt that plenty?



( btw when the volts do go up to 15.1, the add coolant light ( no buzzer ) goes on, the oil press. light goes on, the yellow abs light goes too, why does it do that? )

 

What's the update on this man?
Did you get the compression test?
Did you do anything before this started happening, like mess with the PFC, boost controller etc?
Hey man you can have that dude GoodfeallFD rebuiild your engine. I heard alot of good things of his work. or you can do it yourself if you'd like... Since you got the 93 Supra, you can afford to have alot of downtime on the FD.

 

The voltage and lights sound like a bad alternator. (Voltage regulator, specifically)

I think it's as simple as taking out the alternator and getting it tested.

Dave

 

ok so the update is........ my o-rings are fried and my engine is running super rich!! which is why it starts off rough,, the engine floods itself at start up. its not the ignition, the lights come on because my alternator is OVER charging the system....why, idk but thats what its going. im getting tired of this so what im gunna do is have just have goodfella from IRP rebuilt the motor! i mean i might as well ya know.... but thats the update and the verdict, it sucks i know : /

 

Let me know if or when you're going to have it rebuild.
I might have something for Rich(GoodFellaFD3s) too.
Just a thought.. maybe you can have him document everything with photos, etc.
I know this guy rotaryresurrection (Voluntarily quit this forum) does rebuilds too but you gotta ship your short block. He has alot of rebuild options as well and does a god job of documentation/photos per customer's build. check out his site if you haven't yet. it's cool.

BTW. Looking fwd to seeing that Supra.

 

Good on you for taking your car to IRP. They really know their stuff. I'll be taking my car there this weekend.

 

how do you not have the basics such as a vac gauge?

your voltage is running really high it should be ranging from 13.1~13.8

was your power fc tuned accordingly to your mods?

 

Actually 14. something is about normal for voltage with the car RUNNING.

 

Which o-rings are fried? There are alot of them

 

oh idk the coolant o-rings in the block for the coolant. im not sure im just going by what people are saying, the mechanic also said the ALT is over charging the system which is why its at 15.1 i kno i kno but once IRP does the job i should be fine


question though:
If my engine blows....can it be rebuilt or re-used or is it completely shot then?