Lionheart

Hi Pals,

as some may be knowing I have 2 FDs (actually running ATM ), one is 1992 and the other 1995, where the 1995 is almost stock except all possible reliability mods (AI coming this year). The 1995 is running on a rich base-map off the PFC and is fine with the stock cat as restriction.

I do have the 1992 built up as beater/track car in order to get some driving skills.

I was wondering what other people setups are running and what engine/other parameters they are running.
Also do you tune for AFR then for timing or what are you intervals/procedures in tuning with the PFC?

For example I am in the break-in process of the streetported engine on the 1992 FD, while not going over 4000RPM and running in the 11s and 12s I run pig rich.

So my question for you would be, what is your setup and what are you running?

Mine (yet, gonna update max-values as I proceed with mapping):
Streetported engine
Stock sequential turbos controlled by HKS EVC (shut off - no boost driving during break-in) with FMIC (Greddy type-M)
Fuel: 850/1600cc and SupraTT re-wired
AFRs 11s / 12s all around (also cruising --> shitty gas mileage)
Knock always below 35
EGT max. 550°C / 1022F (~4.500RPM during break-in)
Oil temp max. 65°C / 149F
Oil pressure (not available on the oil pedestrial --> Greddy sandwich adapter, shows pressure when using the air gun but no oil pressure installed oil weight is 15W40 and have NO oil leaks anywhere, do not loose oil and do not have to re-fill)
FP set to 3bar / 44psi
Water temp max. 85°C / 185F
Air intake temp max. 39°C / 102F

I am just curious and interested what would be the max- values you would recommend if you for example are tuning for timing - what EGT values are you looking at?
Also what are pretty safe values for cruising, low-load and high-load (WOT) when tuning for AFR?

If you want to share, post your PFC maps with your setup.

hope to hear alot opinions, not flames - did search but couldn't come up with definitive answers, so file it under "better as: another FD does not start up- thread" LOL

thanks

Ben

Finster

iTrader: (1)

sounds like a question for the pfc subforum

Lionheart

I don't mind what EMS you guys are using, the parameters would vary - independent of the EMS...

Just would like to get some opinions on what values are safe for tuning AFR, timing etc. before hooking up AI.

Ben

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Oil and water temps I try not to get over 100C. EGT is tough because everyone measures it in a different place. I've run well over 1700F degrees preturbo on the rear rotor, and the rear will differ from the front by as much as 150 degrees regardless of intake manifold. For IAT I'll run 40-50C when it's warm outside.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

also cruising @11:1 afr is just diluting the oil with fuel. try leaning it out into the high 13's low 14's cruising. in vacuum there is no worry about detonation, its almost not possible.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

My current fuel map is running about 11 AFR in boost, about 12-13 AFR at atmospheric pressure, and 14-15 AFR in vacuum. I've run leaner (16-17 AFR) in vacuum but the car felt sluggish (and begins to sputter around 17 AFR) so I put it back to 14-15AFR for cruising speeds and loads.

Ignition timing is between 3-11 degrees ignition advance (depending on RPM) for the leading plugs at ~10psi boost, about 15 degrees at idle, and about 25-35 when cruising. Ignition split is firing the trailing plugs 15 degrees after the leadings and 5-10 degrees after the leading plugs in vacuum.

I've had the car running around like this for a while including about 5-10 loaded pulls on a Dynapack dyno and it's been safe so far. I suspect there is more power to be had with different AFRs or ignition timing settings but I haven't gotten to experiment much with that yet. Didn't spend too much time making adjustments on the dyno... it was late at night and the dyno owner was doing me a favor letting me use the machine.

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

Pineapple Racing made a flow balancing plate at one time to correct this issue.

You can also alter porting to reduce the imbalance between the front & rear housing CCT's

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

This is for my car. Details:

-rebuild /w used everything EXCEPT
-2mm atkins apex/ OEM water seals
-housings & irons /w ~50-100k miles
-23+k miles on motor, 1k mile breakin
-non sequential turbos w/ 14k (bought them used /w 14k miles) + 23k = 37k miles
-boost 10-14.5 psi (last couple months have been experimenting with boost 13-14.5 psi)
-OE spec BUR9EQ plugs x 4
-Koyo aluminum radiator
-ACT street/strip clutch
-SMB metallic cat converter
-M2 med stock mount IC
-M2 air box
-1300 cc secondary injectors
-Nippon-Denso (supra) fuel pump
-Greddy profec-b spec II boost controller
-3" downpipe & exhaust
-Apex Power FC
-PLX M-300 Wideband O2
-RE medy Water Pump
-91 USA pump fuel
-elevation: 0-3000 ft
-ambient air temp: 30-90*F
-humidity: all over the place

And running params:

-water: 180-220*F (80-105*C)
-oil (measured @ pan): generally 10-20+*F hotter than water, but I've had it past 260*F (~127*C) and decided to get off the track!!! stock single oil cooler = no good
-fuel press: not sure, whatever stock regulator does (prob 40ish psi @ idle)
-air, stock AIT: 20-60*C (on street, it's more like 30-50*C, on track it's 40-60*C)
-EGT: no idea (no instrumentation)
-AFR: Boost-I run my car between low 11's-high 10's. I get fluctuations of +/- 0.2-0.5 AFR. Tuned for 11.2 @ 10 psi and 10.8 @ 14 psi, interpolate between. Running 15-17 AFR in vac/cruise, motor likes cruising lean
-timing: in boost/max torque running about 14 IGL/12 split @ 10 psi, 10 IGL/12 split @ 14 psi.

Car made 298 whp/257 wtq on a dynojet w/ this setting. @ 14 psi, car ran 13.1ish @ 109ish mph in the 1/4. Did this on the street for several months and a couple dyno pulls on same map. I have added some timing to my map, ran it on the street recently /w no issues at all. Car has previously ran thru the 1/4 @ 112.6 mph with less boost (about 13 psi) and more timing... I have a whole hell of a lot of pulls /w similar timing and fuel, on the order of 100, I think it's safe. My car might not be the fastest out there but it has been very solid in spite of over revving, abuse, etc.

Here are some vids:

recent dyno pulls @ 14 psi, inside car (slightly backed off timing)

recent dyno pulls @ 14 psi, outside car (slightly backed off timing)

recent drag run @ 13-14 psi (slightly backed off timing)

last year's drag run @ 13 psi boost, 112 mph trap

I have a bunch more vids, just check out my youtube channel. Also see my attached log files and map files. You'll notice my timing map from my 2007 tune was spotty in some areas. Oh, to get a 2nd opinion on running params/tech notes, look at other rotary engine specialist sites, like:

Racing Beat
Mazdatrix
Rotary Resurrection

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

I added a couple of things to my previous post, see in red below.

Lionheart

Thanks for posting your opinions so far! I will start leaning out my cruise AFR to ~ 13/14, then check for my timing in that vacuum area.

Update on AFR: measure point is in stock O2- sensor location
EGT is located 3inches further down the downpipe.

thanks, and keep it coming

Ben

arghx

iTrader: (3)

you can lean it all the way into the 15's for the really low load driving, like steady-state cruising