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Full Maintenance Baseline - What Am I Missing?

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Old May 11, 2016 | 12:42 PM
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Full Maintenance Baseline - What Am I Missing?

I picked up my 1993 RX-7 last fall, and have been making my way through the standard list of recommended replacement and upgrade items for a fun, reliable car. The question is, what am I missing? I have minimal records and would prefer to replace anything that is potentially due or a common failure point. Here's the list so far:

Replaced in 2013, 105k miles (previous owner):
Reman Mazda engine, coolant hoses, vacuum hoses, radiator, AST, belts, clutch, flywheel

Replaced fall/spring since purchase, currently at 112k miles:
Cleaned ground points, added ground wires per Mazda SB, plugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel filter, shifter bushings, rubber intake boot from intercooler output pipe that likes to split, boost gauge, MBC set to 12 psi, RX7.com ECU, Jet Hot coated 3" downpipe, 3" midpipe with SS cat, oxygen sensor, throttle cable, plugged EGR valve

On my list to do this summer:
Brake fluid, transmission oil, diff oil, coolant, rebuild suspension, clean injectors, engine coolant temp sensor


So what else am I missing? Ignition coils? It overall runs well with an occasional hiccup at idle, intermittent 3k hesitation when cold, and it will very occasionally throw a CEL that quickly extinguishes. Usage is a fun nice-day daily driver, it is not a track car.
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Old May 11, 2016 | 12:53 PM
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Start with pulling codes, that CEL may be stored even though it's not lit.

Coolant temp sensor rarely goes bad if ever.

I recommend changing coolant once a year with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and DISTILLED water. That makes a big difference in corrosion.

Most RX-7's will have a miss or a hiccup at idle, you'll go crazy trying to fix it. Sometimes the HKS Twinpower will help and give a steadier idle.

Sounds like you're on the right track. I would also look at getting the FC thermoswitch to keep the car cooler, and a PowerFC to get rid of the 3000 RPM hesitation and lower the ECU-controlled cooling fan turn on point.

Dale
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Old May 11, 2016 | 01:34 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/reliability-shopping-list-1083650/

I was in the same boat with my 62k rx7.

Matt
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Old May 11, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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I 2nd the FC thermoswitch.

Also, rear toe link is probably bad ... change them out so you don't get random toe.
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Old May 12, 2016 | 09:16 PM
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Thanks guys, good input!
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Old May 13, 2016 | 12:35 PM
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Don't take offense but worth confirming you have a boost and aftermarket temp gauge? Still occasionally surprised by cars that don't.
Only other thing I could think of is maybe looking for an Efini Y pipe to eliminate that trouble-prone coupler and flow a bit better.

Last edited by Sgtblue; May 13, 2016 at 12:38 PM.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 03:57 PM
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Not a maintenance item but does your car have a PFC?
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Old May 13, 2016 | 07:38 PM
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Alot of people put a fresh fuel pulsation damper, or delete it. I'd just keep it personally.
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Old May 15, 2016 | 06:58 AM
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Yes to a boost gauge, no to a water temp gauge, no to a PFC because I have an aftermarket ECU from RX7.com with maps up to 14.5 psi. Yes I know the PFC is better but I was looking for plug and play. I know the limitations regarding the stock water temp gauge but I'm trying to stay as stockish as possible with no aftermarket gauges visible.
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Old May 15, 2016 | 07:34 AM
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Mmmm...I absolutely understand the desire for stock interior and to minimize gauges. But not much is more important than monitoring temps on the car. And there are gauges that come very close to the font and back-lighting of the OEM gauges.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 11:19 PM
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I'd argue with Dale that the coolant temp sensor should be changed- mine died at 80,000km (whats that in miles..) and a second hand coolant temp sensor I put in (to try and fix it cheaply) was also faulty so I just ended up buying a new sensor and its been fine since.

I'd add a set of Dale's Viton valves and I'd second the motion of an aftermarket water temp gauge- it saved my engine when my radiator got hit. The aftermarket gauge reacted very quickly and I shut it down- whereas the factory gauge barely even moved.
Not much is more important that maintaining coolant temps in these engines, and reacting as early as you can.

Having a nice stock looking interior with a stock looking water temp gauge is great, but if the engine is blown, you'll only be able to sit in the car and admire the stock water temp gauge, and not drive the car...
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