fuel system problem please help!!!
11-13-11, 08:57 PM
#1
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fuel system problem please help!!!
Hi guys my car canks but doesnt start. I got spark, I think I got compressio (I was getting 55-60 PSI per rotor face). So I thought I wasnt getting fuel so I checked for pessure near the filter I removed the line going to the engine for the filter( it was just just dripping fuel) then truned the IGN on it was still dripping fuel I dont think there was any pressure. So I changed the pump to a walbro and I hear something click in the tank so I thought it was good, tried to strart it at least 10 still no start. I removed one of the fuel lines in the in the engine bay and started cranking the car there was no fuel. Then I went to check for power to the pump (I should have done this first but I wasnt thinking), I removed the fuel pump connerter on top of the pump assemble I am getting 5 volts on one side and nothing on the other. Fuel pump relay is good so is the fuse, engine fuel is good too. 
I think the filter is good too it has around 3-4 k miles on it and 4-6 months old. Also my cat its blown I dont know how this will help
and also my car broke down after a track day It overheated twice and died out of no where ones and i had to tap accel padel few time to get it started every single time after it over heated till that night when the the car cooled down it started fine.
Somebody help me havent driven my car in 2 months and I miss it.
Mods- Apexi intake, Blitz FMIC, EBC(which is off 100% of the time), and a catback.
Thank in endvace.
I think the filter is good too it has around 3-4 k miles on it and 4-6 months old. Also my cat its blown I dont know how this will help and also my car broke down after a track day It overheated twice and died out of no where ones and i had to tap accel padel few time to get it started every single time after it over heated till that night when the the car cooled down it started fine.Somebody help me havent driven my car in 2 months and I miss it.
Mods- Apexi intake, Blitz FMIC, EBC(which is off 100% of the time
), and a catback.Thank in endvace.
11-13-11, 09:10 PM
#3
Rotary Enthusiast
50-60 psi is very very low for compression.
Also, if you overheated your engine you have probably destroyed your coolant seals.
Also the fact that it continually overheats suggests you have a serious problem with your cooling system.
bad news, but its time for a rebuld i think.
Also, if you overheated your engine you have probably destroyed your coolant seals.
Also the fact that it continually overheats suggests you have a serious problem with your cooling system.
bad news, but its time for a rebuld i think.
11-13-11, 09:12 PM
#4
A few thoughts on your issues....
* 55-60psi is quite low for compression. Ensure you are doing it properly with a proper gauge. You may have big issues here.
* You obviously aren't getting fuel if there is no pressure at the engine bay. Check voltage to the pump while cranking. Have a friend help. I would also hook up a fuel pressure gauge so you can really see what's going on. These cars are notorious for low pump voltage and relay issues. I would look into a re-wire. The fuel system is designed to run a lower voltage at idle and then ramp up the voltage during WOT. Search, there is a lot of discussion on this.
* Overheated twice?..... So you didn't stop after the first time?..... Surprised you still have compression. Rotaries are extremely sensitive to overheating. This and detonation will kill a rotary much faster than a piston engine.
* 55-60psi is quite low for compression. Ensure you are doing it properly with a proper gauge. You may have big issues here.
* You obviously aren't getting fuel if there is no pressure at the engine bay. Check voltage to the pump while cranking. Have a friend help. I would also hook up a fuel pressure gauge so you can really see what's going on. These cars are notorious for low pump voltage and relay issues. I would look into a re-wire. The fuel system is designed to run a lower voltage at idle and then ramp up the voltage during WOT. Search, there is a lot of discussion on this.
* Overheated twice?..... So you didn't stop after the first time?..... Surprised you still have compression. Rotaries are extremely sensitive to overheating. This and detonation will kill a rotary much faster than a piston engine.
11-13-11, 09:21 PM
#6
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I should have been a bit more clear about the over heat part it was a 2 day of track, The first the the car over heated and died out of no where right after I entered the pit lane it It was really hot outside and its was my 5th and last session of the day. the second day the needle when to hot on the 3rd sesssion and I just stoped.
11-13-11, 09:23 PM
#7
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Being in Cali, you should have a few options for rotary specialty shops. Search in the West section and you'll find many reviews on the shops out there. Choose one and drop your car off.... you have too many issues (and too many serious ones) to be solved over the intarweb, sorry to say
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11-13-11, 09:26 PM
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A few thoughts on your issues....
* 55-60psi is quite low for compression. Ensure you are doing it properly with a proper gauge. You may have big issues here.
I used a regular piston gauge I think I removed the top to plugs when I checked it. I was holing the release value.
* You obviously aren't getting fuel if there is no pressure at the engine bay. Check voltage to the pump while cranking. Have a friend help. I would also hook up a fuel pressure gauge so you can really see what's going on. These cars are notorious for low pump voltage and relay issues. I would look into a re-wire. The fuel system is designed to run a lower voltage at idle and then ramp up the voltage during WOT. Search, there is a lot of discussion on this.
I will look into that. thx
* Overheated twice?..... So you didn't stop after the first time?..... Surprised you still have compression. Rotaries are extremely sensitive to overheating. This and detonation will kill a rotary much faster than a piston engine.
* 55-60psi is quite low for compression. Ensure you are doing it properly with a proper gauge. You may have big issues here.
I used a regular piston gauge I think I removed the top to plugs when I checked it. I was holing the release value.
* You obviously aren't getting fuel if there is no pressure at the engine bay. Check voltage to the pump while cranking. Have a friend help. I would also hook up a fuel pressure gauge so you can really see what's going on. These cars are notorious for low pump voltage and relay issues. I would look into a re-wire. The fuel system is designed to run a lower voltage at idle and then ramp up the voltage during WOT. Search, there is a lot of discussion on this.
I will look into that. thx
* Overheated twice?..... So you didn't stop after the first time?..... Surprised you still have compression. Rotaries are extremely sensitive to overheating. This and detonation will kill a rotary much faster than a piston engine.
11-13-11, 09:32 PM
#9
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Being in Cali, you should have a few options for rotary specialty shops. Search in the West section and you'll find many reviews on the shops out there. Choose one and drop your car off.... you have too many issues (and too many serious ones) to be solved over the intarweb, sorry to say
Thanks though.
11-13-11, 11:42 PM
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'I used to kick wires underneath my dash in my turbo gsr teggy and it would eventually start... slapping would help ftw!
11-14-11, 11:11 PM
#13
The FD's stock coolant temp gauge is heavily center-weighted... if it starts to move above the center, the engine is already quite hot.
Have you really been a member since 2010 without reading the 3rd Gen FAQ thread?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
Have you really been a member since 2010 without reading the 3rd Gen FAQ thread?
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
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