Front the rear brake conversion?
#1
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
Front the rear brake conversion?
Has anyone tried setting up a front brake caliper on the rear when up grading to larger racing breaks in front to balance out the rear breaking? I know all about the RZ/RS kit and the only real diffrence in the rear is the much much larger rotor. So has anyone ever thought about doing this or giving it a try?
#5
Moderator
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Originally Posted by Xeros
I thought about that. I've asked a question like this before so people have simply parked in reverse or 1st gear.
Dave
#6
Originally Posted by Xeros
I thought about that. I've asked a question like this before so people have simply parked in reverse or 1st gear.
Jeremy
#7
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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They will most likely create a unbalanced brake system. And most likely you will be doing loops when you hit the brakes hard. Most big brake kits do NOT include any provisions for the rear other than SS lines and maybe some pads. But for the most part on most cars, the stock rears do a fine job on braking. As the Majority of the braking is done thru the front brakes.
I can't think of anyone on the board or from any tracks that i have been to that has overpowerd the rear brakes in there stock form..( upgraded rotors and pads. powerslot type rotors nothing speacial)
What makes you want to try to put big calipers on the rear? Just a fun project to try?
I can't think of anyone on the board or from any tracks that i have been to that has overpowerd the rear brakes in there stock form..( upgraded rotors and pads. powerslot type rotors nothing speacial)
What makes you want to try to put big calipers on the rear? Just a fun project to try?
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#8
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Isn't there larger rear brakes from like the Spirit R or something?
BTW, it's an *emergency* brake, not just a *parking* brake. If you have a catastrophic brake failure, the E-brake can safely slow you down and get you off the road. That's why the E-brake uses a totally separate mechanical system - it's a redundant system.
I would never recommend losing the use of an E-brake on a car that's ever driven on the street. There's a reason it's there.
I'm pretty conservative when it comes to brakes. This is one area where you can have VERY bad consequences if you screw something up.
Dale
BTW, it's an *emergency* brake, not just a *parking* brake. If you have a catastrophic brake failure, the E-brake can safely slow you down and get you off the road. That's why the E-brake uses a totally separate mechanical system - it's a redundant system.
I would never recommend losing the use of an E-brake on a car that's ever driven on the street. There's a reason it's there.
I'm pretty conservative when it comes to brakes. This is one area where you can have VERY bad consequences if you screw something up.
Dale
#9
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by DaleClark
BTW, it's an *emergency* brake, not just a *parking* brake.
And using the hand brake in an emergency is very dangerous unless you know what you are doing. It will lock up the rear wheels and most likely send the car into a spin. If it were intended as a redundant braking system, it would have braking capabilites for the front wheels too.
#10
Senior Member
I just finished helping install 99 spec brakes onto a 93.
99 spec installed parts were both front and rear backing plates, front and rear rotors and calipers, front and rear pads, new ss brake lines but the old and new looked identical.
The fronts were a direct bolt on without any problems, the rear backing plates had to be pressed on requiring removal of the rear bearings "we replaced them" everything else fit perfectly but the bolts on the original rear calipers were too small so we replaced them with longer grade 10 bolts.
The setup worked perfectly and front and rear rotors are an inch larger.
99 spec installed parts were both front and rear backing plates, front and rear rotors and calipers, front and rear pads, new ss brake lines but the old and new looked identical.
The fronts were a direct bolt on without any problems, the rear backing plates had to be pressed on requiring removal of the rear bearings "we replaced them" everything else fit perfectly but the bolts on the original rear calipers were too small so we replaced them with longer grade 10 bolts.
The setup worked perfectly and front and rear rotors are an inch larger.
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
If you increase the diameter of your front brake rotor (or the size of the front brake caliper pistons) you will to either increase the rear brake rotor size proportionally or remove your ABS and get a brake proportioning valve.
Otherwise your brakes will not be balanced which leads to inferior braking and possibly an unsettled feel to the car when braking in turns.
I use custom 13" front rotors with Wilwood calipers on the front and RZ brakes on the rear. Works well for me at the track. It's pretty well balanced but could use some fine tuning.
As was stated above you don't have to worry about overheating your rear rotors in most track situations.
Otherwise your brakes will not be balanced which leads to inferior braking and possibly an unsettled feel to the car when braking in turns.
I use custom 13" front rotors with Wilwood calipers on the front and RZ brakes on the rear. Works well for me at the track. It's pretty well balanced but could use some fine tuning.
As was stated above you don't have to worry about overheating your rear rotors in most track situations.
Last edited by John Magnuson; 01-20-05 at 02:41 PM.
#12
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There are a few places just to get larger rotor kits, without the caliper of course since your can use the stock caliper. Pretty pricey, but I think I might go that way for the rears in my FD vise putting some caliper kit back there.
#13
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
Yeah see, it isnt always just a larger rotar that counts its also how many psitons you have pushing down on that rotar. is it possible to mount the stock rear break on the other side of the rotar an still use it as a hand brake? And it isnt an issue of over heating either but more or less a balance issue once you up grade to huge ones up front. Increasing the rear rotar size and the pistons you would also achieve greater stopping power and shorter stoppings times allowing for later breaking into a corner would it not? I remeber seeing a german car i think it was or was it an acura? With a double caliper setup in the rear...Is this a a just fr fun project? No when it comes to things like this it is a very serious approach on my behlaf to try and increase break power. Becasue as we all know Bad breaks = DEATH! That or shitty track times....
#14
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by Xeros
Increasing the rear rotar size and the pistons you would also achieve greater stopping power and shorter stoppings times allowing for later breaking into a corner would it not?
https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-archive-112/do-rotors-lines-pads-really-make-big-difference-231994/
Everything about Brakes by Grassroots Motorsports
Last edited by DamonB; 01-21-05 at 04:13 PM.
#16
I'm sorry wha?
Thread Starter
Hmmm, alright thats true the tires are what really stop the car. But doesn't adding another piston instead allow that caliper to cover more of the disk which allows it to clamp on to it better and in other word apply more force to the disk more uniforally over the entire area of the disk allowing for a slighlty quicker decrease in speed without locking up the wheels? And yes I read those two posts....very informative...but still than why do people go with larger brembo type breaks? If a good slotted rotar and pad will do the same? Actually i will answe rmy own question becasue the larger rotar allows more area to coool off. But than why more pistons? Wouldn't it make sense to go with more on the rear as well? I mean not same amount but still? I'm no physicist obviously, but I am very very curious about htis now.
#17
Super Snuggles
Originally Posted by Xeros
than why do people go with larger brembo type breaks?
But than why more pistons?
Wouldn't it make sense to go with more on the rear as well?
#18
Front calipers from an FD wont work in the back. The only way to improve upon the stockers is the 99 rears or the custom stuff I did. Brembos calipers in the rear and an upgraded rotor.
I havea kit for sale still if anybody is interested.
1R1
I havea kit for sale still if anybody is interested.
1R1
#19
I did much research in this area and have looked at many calipers, the brembos work as do the Harrop. AP doesnt make an affordable caliper that will fit without major surgery to the rear hub carrier. Wilwoods fit as do Outlaw and a few other less know calipers. But I wanted the AP Champcar rotors that M2 used on their old kits. So,I selected Brembos for the quality and the style factor and that it would work with the AP champcar rotor and it balances out the front BBK kits that are readily available.
1R1
1R1
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